Heated bar plumbing

[couch]

Just doing heated bars ...
Bike has a thermobob so is it better to take bar coolant supply after thermobob or off the smaller bypass line?

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[Sheetmetalfab]

Just doing heated bars ...
Bike has a thermobob so is it better to take bar coolant supply after thermobob or off the smaller bypass line?

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just remove the bypass line and hook the bar hoses directly to the barbs. (I used reducers)

 

[couch]

Thanks

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[couch]

Whats the best way to fill / bleed the coolant with the bar install to prevent an air lock situation?


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[GKR]

Never had an issue, the positive flow in the bypass circuit when the thermostat is closed fills the bar right away with no problem. Of course that is provided you connect the bars to the bypass as suggested above. You will want to anyway as that way you get heat to the bars regardless if the tstat is open or not. On big pow days the stat may be closed a bunch and the bars may be more than enough to keep up the the engine cooling demands. In fact, often it goes the other way and you will need an engine blanket and/or rad blockers to keep temps up. After a while you will get a feel for it. I have a temp guage but even without looking at it i can tell when my engine is running cold because my bars cool off.

 

[p2im0]

Whats the best way to fill / bleed the coolant with the bar install to prevent an air lock situation?


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I built my own heated bars last year and went out of my way to bleed the bars the first time. Only to find that I had to dump the coolant and re-fill for an unrelated issue.

Long story short, the extra effort to bleed was not needed. They self-bled all the bubbles out after 5-10 minutes of heating up. I topped up the rad a tiny bit after the first heat cycle.

I have a TBob3 on my Husaberg, and I kept my bypass circuit and TEE'd off it for the IN to my heated bars. I wanted to keep the bypass in my bike.

I used the method where I fed 1/4in copper tube through my bars and blocked off the middle of the bars, to force coolant to the ends. Definitely makes a difference on really cold days. Also I have no room for a shutoff by the rads so I used a 1/4turn fuel valve up by the bars. Worked great all last season!

 

[M5-]

I also teed off of my bypass and retained the bypass function which allows the bars to be turned off. I have 1/4 turn valves on both ends of the bars in the event that I tear a line off or something stupid like that I can shut off the bars and just keep riding. This also allows me to shut them off in the spring and still have a bypass which you need when the tstat is closed