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Heat Soak switch

D

doornenbal

Active member
I bought a 2009 M8 turbo with an OVS kit on it. It also has the switch for when the motor becomes heat soaked. Could someone give me a quick tips on how to use it. Reasson I am asking is because I tried it last weekend and flooded the sled really bad, the guy I bought it from I think said flip the switch and hold the thorotle wide open until it fires shut the switch off and it should go. I tried this and had fuel pukeing out of the pipe.\

Thanks
 
this is what I used to do to the 09

sled won't start,

flip switch, turn sled off, pull 3 times, turn sled on, pull 3 times, then flip switch back & start sled.

I'll be honest, I could be missing a step here, but I'm pretty sure that's what we did with ours. My 11 (crossfire, so more cooling) never does it, so I'm a tad rusty.
 
Switch

When your sled gets heat soaked flip switch to off leaving the kill switch on(run position). Pull the sled over with no gas should pop. When it does this turn the switch back to the on position and hold wide open and pull. Should start within one to two pulls. Also, when the sled is cold you can turn the switch off and it will start up faster just remember to turn the sled back off and turn the switch on then your good to go sled should start up fine after that.
 
Saw this in one of the threads on here from Pure Logic

"Turbo charged cats and any modified cats making high horse power have increased the running temp of the engine. The coolant after the sled is shut off quits flowing and heat soaks the temp sender because of no coolant flow. This sends the coolant sensor into fail safe and will not let the sled start until the coolant temp comes down. This is why we build a coolant cancel assembly with the matching plugs to the sensor so the signal can be interupted to start the sled. When the sled restarts the coolant starts flowing and the colder coolant then gets to the temp sender and then it reads ok. The big problem is people will put the turbo kit on and increase the horesepower but they will not put larger coolers in the sled to cool the engine that needs more cooling because of the increased horespower. These coolers are available from OVS and are a needed investment."
 
Switch

When I am running the sled it is off so...

Break the connection whatever it takes you to do that. And follow what I posted before it should work for you. I've had four of these switches and all of them broke the connection when you put it in the off position. It's the same as reaching down and unplugging the temp. sensor plug
 
When your sled gets heat soaked flip switch to off leaving the kill switch on(run position). Pull the sled over with no gas should pop. When it does this turn the switch back to the on position and hold wide open and pull. Should start within one to two pulls.

This is the same procedure I use. The sleds don't always pop, so don't keep pulling if they don't, because with the swith off they are just dumping fuel. I do no more than two pulls with the switch off, then WOT with the switch back on. Keep in mind that the whole switch procedure is not always 100% guaranteed to work. Carry spare plugs.
 
Your guys off is my on. When my sled becomes heat soaked I have to switch it "on" ...pull twice... switch it back to the position I rinde in and start the sled(which for me is off, or down)

Thanks guys
 
Normal riding conditions the switch is left on?

I'm a little confused. Just to be clear, I will have in the on position while riding all day? Only flip it to off to dump extra fuel when it's overheated. Then when it's running again I turn it back on? Sound right?
 
I'm a little confused. Just to be clear, I will have in the on position while riding all day? Only flip it to off to dump extra fuel when it's overheated. Then when it's running again I turn it back on? Sound right?

Switch should be wired in so when you turn it off it breaks the circuit to the temp sensor. Anyway that is how mine is wired in, so yes I ride with it ON.
 
I have been ridding with mine off ( or down) idle numbers are 14.6 and WOT is 12.5 sled runs wicked, When it would not start I flipped the switch on (or up) pulled a bunch of times and fuel was pukeing out of the pipe.

I am sure we are all saying the same thing up, down or side to side change the position of the switch follow instructions above and it should go.

Thanks !!!
 
I'm running extra cooling(crossfire cooler) so my switch doesn't ever get used, but I've thought about doing the hot start, "fool the ECU" thing another way.

I want to wire in a three position, center off, (DTDT) switch.

On one side I would put in a resistor that is the same value as the temp sensor at 100 degrees.

The other side would be closed/jumpered so that the ecu would measure actual temp.

The middle would obviously be open to have the ECU send full rich to the injectors.

I think that it would be easer to start at the 100 degree setting instead of the full rich. The full rich could be used for very cold morning starts and of course the closed position would be the normal run condition.
 
On one side I would put in a resistor that is the same value as the temp sensor at 100 degrees.

I have been thinking the exact same thing. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Soak the sensor in a pot and measure the resistance at about 100-150 deg. Build a "single pole, double throw, center off" switch and be done with it. Has anyone ever tried this???
 
Skinz mesh hood, never had a heat soak issue since! Even in spring towing a sleigh behind my M8T in warm spring conditions. Everyone was overheating on the trail and I was still fine without scratchers even. Highly recommend the mesh hood with a Turbo, no more snow on hot turbo steam bog either. Great for drying gloves off in the vent pockets.
 
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