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Has anybody changed their secondary spring for high altitude?

skibreeze

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I haven't changed the stock black spring (155/222), but the manual says to use a black/purple (160/240)for 8000 and above.
 
Black purple is the only way to go. Also get team delrin washers and put one behind the gold spring cup. If you add other delrin washers on the other side of the spring each one will gain you about 30- 50 rpm. I use three. One under the gold cup, one in the gold cup, and one in the black cup. They free up the twisting movement of the spring. You need the stiffer spring at high altitude to keep the rpms up.
 
Black purple is the only way to go. Also get team delrin washers and put one behind the gold spring cup. If you add other delrin washers on the other side of the spring each one will gain you about 30- 50 rpm. I use three. One under the gold cup, one in the gold cup, and one in the black cup. They free up the twisting movement of the spring. You need the stiffer spring at high altitude to keep the rpms up.

What would this set-up do at lower elevation?
 
I'm trying to figure out at what point a secondary spring is too stiff in which it causes a lack up upshift or backshift. There are also 160-260 and 160-280 springs from Team too.

I tried multiple combos last year. I have a C3 belt drive and tried every combo of stock gearing, lowered gearing, stock black spring, black/purple spring, Stock helix, 60/40.36 helix, 60/38.36 helix. The best I found was the lower gearing by the smallest amount with the stock helix and with the stock black spring with one derlin washer under the spring cup. It felt like the secondary was cooler and had better backshift with the black spring over the black/purple spring... but the black/purple had 500+ miles on it and "felt" kind of like it was sacking out before I put the black spring back in that only had 100 miles on it. I only use the Speedwerx H5 125/340 primary springs.

I have seen a lot of people say that putting 3 Derlin washers in does more harm than good. On my old Dragon 800 I tried 3 and never saw a gain from it.
 
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I switched mine on my 13' I like it more when around 10,000 feet (rpm more consist), less if riding 8000' or lower(RPM still good, just doesn't seem as snappy as my 11' with stock spring, the stock spring sometimes doesn't backshift and rpm's fade too much at 10,000', great at 8,000). And no I don't switch out, it isn't a huge difference. Will I do it on my next one, probably not.
 
I'm trying to figure out at what point a secondary spring is too stiff in which it causes a lack up upshift or backshift. There are also 160-260 and 160-280 springs from Team too.

I tried multiple combos last year. I have a C3 belt drive and tried every combo of stock gearing, lowered gearing, stock black spring, black/purple spring, Stock helix, 60/40.36 helix, 60/38.36 helix. The best I found was the lower gearing by the smallest amount with the stock helix and with the stock black spring with one derlin washer under the spring cup. It felt like the secondary was cooler and had better backshift with the black spring over the black/purple spring... but the black/purple had 500+ miles on it and "felt" kind of like it was sacking out before I put the black spring back in that only had 100 miles on it. I only use the Speedwerx H5 125/340 primary springs.

I have seen a lot of people say that putting 3 Derlin washers in does more harm than good. On my old Dragon 800 I tried 3 and never saw a gain from it.

Just wondering what weight you ran in the primary while testning different combos.

Skickat från min Nexus 10 via Tapatalk 2
 
10-58's. Riding 9-12K ft. Tried 10-60 and they did not pull R's above 10.5-11K ft
 
10-58 weights and blue pink from slp in the primary and black/ white with slp dual angle helix and one delrin in the secondary. My sled will tach at 8250-8300 at 11,000 ft consistently and will loose very little rpm when climbing steep and deep. I also put in pink exhaust valve springs and gear down from a 21 to a 19 tooth. I have tested over 20 set ups and this pulls the hardest and keeps the rpm right there all the time.
 
I need to try it in mine. Seems I need a touch more spring. Had it shift out a couples times too soon after back shifting. Think it's more my weight (230) than elevation.
 
Like CO 2 said, I get more belt heat with the Black/Purple using proper weights and 20/43 gearing. I prefer the stock Black/? on my buggies. YMMV
 
Like CO 2 said, I get more belt heat with the Black/Purple using proper weights and 20/43 gearing. I prefer the stock Black/? on my buggies. YMMV

^^^AGREED...I changed my 2012 to the black/purple secondary and it's a belt eating monster (lots and lots of heat). My 2013 is stock black and haven't had a belt heat issue. Mind you the primary's are set up the same on these sleds!!!
 
I ran it both ways but really don't think I noticed a huge change.

I have one of those plastic washers in my clutch and not it seems I can only pull 7900 RPM. I did some testing with it in the spring but will need to work on it more this fall and see if I can get that back up to 8200 or so. IT will hit 8150 and then fall to 7900. Wondering if that washer is doing something to it????
 
switched to black purple on my 13 with MDS weights and it was night & day difference. Sled would actually hold rpm at elevation. However, buddy switched his with stock weights and difference was very slight if any. No belt eating issues on either of them. I'm not sure its worth it unless you have a setup that requires it which I would say the MDS weights do.
 
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