Had a bit of an accident with a stump new sled, need help and suggestions

[fisherman302]

Hey guys just joined the forums but had been browsing for years, unfortunately my first post isn't a happy one. I just bought my dream sled an AXYS with a BD turbo. First time out to Rabbit Ears with it and I hit a stump and mangled some stuff within the first three hours of riding. At first it didn't look too bad then upon further inspection I noticed a wholeee lot more going on with the impact. The stump must have hit perfectly on the rear suspension bracket that is riveted to the tunnel. it pulled some rivets out and pulled the aluminum on the tunnel in a little but the size of half dollar dent on the side of the tunnel, cracked the tunnel where it flares out and meets the running boards, about a half inch, bent the rear suspension bars, mangles the bogie wheel/ bearing. Having said this I'm so sick to my stomach that this has happened, I have been riding for about 4 seasons and never had any bad mishaps, I love snowmobiling so much and after buying my dream sled this happens it cuts deep.

-Polaris does not make the bracket, you have to order a new tunnel, I do not believe the tunnel is totaled I may be wrong thats why I'm here for your opinions.
-I found an aftermarket brackets seems to be the only company that makes them
( http://vanamburgent.com/axys/ )
-I talked to a local trusted welding shop and showed them the sled, they also ride themselves so they have respect for the sport and machines. They say the can weld the crack and get the aluminum straight as they can.

-I have the ability to wrench on my own stuff in my shop and have the tools, but have never really messed with rear suspension or tunnel components, I guess my questions are, if I remove the rear suspension components nothing is left the hold the tunnel up can I block the rear bumper bar up so it holds the track up or does that risk bending it since the suspension component bear the weight?

These rivets are interesting they aren't your average push rivets almost like they fold over after being riveted to get a flush finish. the bracket kit comes with new rivets so I'm assuming they are the same since the track clearance in the tunnel is so close

-Im going to have to drill the rivets from the inside of the tunnel because they are riveted from the inside so ill need to almost remove the track or I'm assuming once the suspension components are gone the track will be out of the way.

-My next concern is once all the old parts are then off ill need to transport it to the welding shop will that do damage to the sled if the tunnel isn't being held up by the rear suspension bars?

If any of you can shed some light on what I'm dealing with it would be more than appreciated. I know its quite a lot of information but I'm overwhelmed with what happened and I just want to get this fixed and done with so I can enjoy it. I know its part of snowmobiling stuff happens and I guess along the way I can learn a few things about the rear working of the sled. Here are a few pictures of the damage and the sled itself. Thanks much!!!!

 

[Murph]

Welcome to the forum

I know it sucks right now but you’ll be back riding in no time.



Check out this product from Kmod—
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438927

 

[icr]

Is it insured?

 

[snobyrd]

remove the rear suspension by removing the 4 mounting bolts, do this with sled on its side,starting with the rear mounts first, pivot skid in an arc towards front end, wiggle out the skid, the rear of the sled will now be supper light to lift by the bumper, the trax can be easily maneuvered to allow u to remove the rivits and out of the way for welding.

 

[fisherman302]

yes but my deductible is 1500 and I don't want my auto rates to increase, and my snowmobile insurance to be outrageous for the rest of my life, I'm thinking this can be fixed much cheaper and without a salvage title over something so small. if it came down to it I could do it that way kind of inquiring here first.

 

[fisherman302]

remove the rear suspension by removing the 4 mounting bolts, do this with sled on its side,starting with the rear mounts first, pivot skid in an arc towards front end, wiggle out the skid, the rear of the sled will now be supper light to lift by the bumper, the trax can be easily maneuvered to allow u to remove the rivits and out of the way for welding.

cool thank you much for the quick reply. can the handlebar support and bear the weight of the sled?

 

[sumtinwong]

maaan that blows! oO0 yea welcome to the forms if its the cash that's holding you up I would bet dollars to donuts that you can fix that tunnel with a peace of aluminum 90/corner stock 2.5 by 4 in. about 1/4 in. thick {as long as yon deem necessary} by beating that tunnel strait and riveting the peace to the tunnel {on top of the foot rails} with some aftermarket drop brackets on the inside and long steal rivets through the whole stack. not a choice fix but you could make it strong and hold up! their are mixed feelings on welding on these chaises do to the type of aluminum used witch is beyond my knowledge but their was a post not to long ago about a crack in a tunnel and I think the consensus was to drill stop holes and rivet a patch {witch is what I always did}.... as for the rest well you know if its broke it just needs replaced! hope that helps you a little fisherman

 

[LoudHandle]

I'd use the K-mod newly released rear suspension mount

K-mod just released an aftermarket rear suspension mount. It was posted in the last week or so. Kevin designed it so his bracket goes on the inside of the tunnel and uses the Fire and Ice reinforcement plate on the outside.

Here is the Product Release Thread with some pics
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438927

By using the KMOD with the Fire and Ice plate it should straighten and strengthen that area enough that the need to weld anything would be negated.

Here is a link straight to the Kmod website, and his white paper basically describes your sleds damage and is why he developed this product.
http://www.kmodsnowmobileparts.com/polaris/axys-drop-bracket-replacement-kit

 

[Madtown]

I would also suggest Loudhandles recommendation. That area is pretty weak to begin with. No need to write the sled off.

 

[TDR]

I feel your pain. My son write off a 17 last year doing the same thing. Hit a hidden stump and did the same damage. First thing I would do is check with your insurance company. My sled insurance is not tied to my auto insurance so no impact. I bought the salvage from the insurance and rebuilt the sled. Found a tunnel from another sled and transplanted it. Replaced all the other parts and good to go. I would go the after market drop brackets if you can get the tunnel in good shape. Good luck.

 

[fisherman302]

Thanks for all the information guys much appreciated! Few questions can the tunnel be supported by just the bumper if not tipped over on its side? When I go to transport it to the welding shop to straighten the tunnel once the suspension is out is it okay if the tunnel is resting on the track and sagging or will that cause more damage

 

[polarisboyc]

Thanks for all the information guys much appreciated! Few questions can the tunnel be supported by just the bumper if not tipped over on its side? When I go to transport it to the welding shop to straighten the tunnel once the suspension is out is it okay if the tunnel is resting on the track and sagging or will that cause more damage

Absolutely it will support it. Once that skid is out it is pretty light. It will also be fine resting on the track once you get it loaded up.

 

[snobyrd]

Thanks for all the information guys much appreciated! Few questions can the tunnel be supported by just the bumper if not tipped over on its side? When I go to transport it to the welding shop to straighten the tunnel once the suspension is out is it okay if the tunnel is resting on the track and sagging or will that cause more damage

All will be fine, ull be supprised how light the back end is with no skid. Lift it, carry it, whatever, your not gonna inflict more damage

 

[fisherman302]

okay guys I got the skid out and all the suspension out from underneath it. I had a go at a rivet that hold the rear bracket on, for the life of me I absolutely can not get the rivet to budge. first I hit it with a drill and then gave up so I ground the head totally off of the rivet with a grinder from the inside of the tunnel. that bracket is in the way of the tunnel so don't worry I wasn't grinding on the tunnel itself. I took a small punch and tried to pound the rivet out, it literally will not budge. can anyone shed some light on getting these things out because I have about 16 more to go and can't even budge one. feeling pretty disheartened.... thanks guys

 

[LoudHandle]

I’m guessing from your description; it is one of the self piercing hardened rivets? If so, with the inside ground flush now. Place a small socket that just clears the head on the outside support the socket firmly as even with the inside ground off it will still take a few well placed hammer blows on the punch to start it moving. I’d recommend tipping the sled damaged side down and putting the socket on a block of wood with some metal between the socket and the block. This will allow an ergonomic hammer swing at the punch. A large ball peen or small sledge will free it up.

If it just the hardened chassis pop rivet? Take a small punch and knock out the hardened mandrel. Then the head will drill off pretty easily. Most forget to get the mandrel out of the way ( it is harder than a drill bit) and you will make up new curse words if you don’t knock the mandrel out first.

Hope that helps

 

[diamonddave]

Good advice LH. Can you share any new cuss words?

 

[fisherman302]

Cool finally started getting some rivets out got a few the way by grinding all the heads of removing the old bracket and drilling, the stubborn ones loudhandles suggestion works really well.

My next question the snowmobile is held up by the rear of the bumper since the skid is out of it, can I still support it this way if I take the foot rails off wasn’t sure if they provide that needed strength to prevent the tunnel from bending while it’s supported without the skid ?

 

[fisherman302]

Hey guys here are the photos with everything stripped from the tunnel so you can get a better idea of what the damage looks like. Let me know what you think of it and if it can Be straightened out. Probably going to have an auto body or welding shop straighten it out. Also ordered vanamburgent long bumper to go in part the the new bracket also from vanamburgent. The bracket will also rivet through the tunnel into the new bumper for some added strength. Thanks for your help guys

 

[GreenState]

Since you're already halfway there, as far as removing the running boards, you might as well upgrade to some Skinz Shorty or BM Fab Burly boards. Stronger, stiffer, way more traction with either option and you can just cut out the part where you dented it that also holds snow.

 

[FatDogX]

Honestly, I think your on track with the K-Mod suspension mounts and then run the VEI extended bumper to cover and reinforce the outside of the tunnel. VEI will also do custom side tunnel braces, so could go that route too.

Sucks but its' one of those things, it happens to all of us!!

Good luck and keep us posted, oh and by the welcome aboard!!