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grass drag info

irydcat

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How are you guys keeping your engines cool while racing.I know some guys are building a cooling system with a 12 volt pump and a cooler.But cant find anything on how to do it.And any other tricks of the trade.I am just running a stock m7 for fun but dont want to hatch the motor.

Thanks
 
Used to be when copper was alot cheaper get some 3/4" or 7/8" line set (just a copper tubing spiroll for freon lines in home AC systems) fill with coolant of choice Put that in the ice chest, then take some heater hose on each end with a male and female quick coupler for the hookup. Just splice the coolant hose on your sled (we used to do it coming OUT of the motor) and put in the quick couplers and hook up.

reason for out of the motor is you dont want super cold coolant to hit the HOT motor right off the bat, let it go through the coolers on the sled and get somewhat up to temp, then your sled will also have more area for the heat to displace on the cold coolers durring your run.

You dont need a pump, just let the sleds water pump do the work. Usually the BIG mods do the 12v pump so their big ported high HP motors dont sit and idle for to long and load up. They can pump it while the motor is shut off.
 
This might help you get a start:
http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253757



Mine is different than the one above.
I use a 12 volt water pump that I bought from a ranch supply store. I have 2 sets of the couplers at the top of this page: http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/Snowmobile_Catalog_Racing_Products_80.html (you can also go to a john deer dealer and get hyd couplers....) I use a heater core...or anything of the sort, even a small radiator. put the core in your cooler, fill it full of ice...and put water in it. You should be good to go.
 
If you are not running many classes you can use crushed ice in a pillow case and cover the motor. Maybe stick one on the rear cooler on top of the beaver tail. When using a cool down on the newer cats (laydown motors)you need to remove the t-stat and plug the hole that is straight in. I use a 3/8 bolt about 2 1/2 in. long thread a nut on about a inch so the threads go into the hole. That plugs the warm up circuit and use the t-stat cap to hold the bolt in place. Be careful not to put too much pressure on cap housing by leaving too much bolt out it will crack housing when tightening. It's like putting a cork in there but a cork won't stay so you need the housing to hold it. If you don't take the t-stat out when it closes water will only circulate through the warm up circuit. May not be a good explanation that's why I offered the other solution with ice.
 
I forgot to add....if you are pumping cold coolant into your sled...make sure it is going through the heat exchangers first, because you don't want it going straight to the engine.
 
Thanks guys for the info I was also wondering if a attack 20 would work for running on grass I was thinking about cutting it down and turning it around.Just wondering if anybody uses them it is a 162.I also have a new challenger but would like to run the attack 20 if it works.If not how hard is it on the track to run on dirt I would hate to wreck a new challenger track.

Thanks
 
run the A20 just as you said..in HC. I do. Leave a tiny bit of cup on the paddle..works very well.
 
run the A20 just as you said..in HC. I do. Leave a tiny bit of cup on the paddle..works very well.


just thought I would give you a heads up -If you are going to trim the track, you cannot use that track at any ISR sanctioned snowmobile drag race. ISR doesn't allow track altercations or track trimming of any kind.
 
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