Getting snow bath from ice scratchers on 2010 RMK

[retiredpop]

Last spring when I was using ice scratchers on the trail I was getting a lot of ice and snow thrown up on me. Temperatures were above freezing and the snow had a lot of ice and water in it. I found that the scratchers sprayed the snow onto the skid like it should but without the outside wheels on the rear axle the snow got caught by the track and then thrown up and forward by the track as it turned. Of course it kept everything well cooled including myself and the seat. Has anyone got a solution for keeping the snow in the tunnel as opposed to on the driver?

 

[MNSLEDNECK56308]

If the trails/snow was sloppy, put the scratchers back up, not needed.

 

[MORSNO]

You could relocate your scratchers back a few inches or change them out for Slidekicks cable type scratchers and see if that helps.

 

[retiredpop]

If the trails/snow was sloppy, put the scratchers back up, not needed.

Well I would have but the snow was packed, not sloppy, and would not get thrown up by the lugs onto the coolers. This also occurs a bit in colder temps as well but not as bad.

 

[MNSLEDNECK56308]

i see, i have slidekicks and don't get hit with anything, then again they don't throw as much stuff as the regular ones either!

 

[Clarke673]

it sounds like it is your track soaking you, not the scratchers falt... Imo, you only need scratchers when running on ice. if it is slushy at all, just upen the sled up a bit, they cool down better that way anyways.

But if i read that right, you might want to look into geting a diferent type of snow flap or maybe use some small side flaps like what came on older sleds (like old indys).

 

[coolx2]

I have the same problem. Good riding gear keeps me dry though.

 

[IDAHO HOT SHOT]

Simple Solution

This is really a simple fix. You just get a cab put on your sled and that slushy snow won't hit you any more. FYI cabs cut down on wind too.

 

[retiredpop]

maybe use some small side flaps like what came on older sleds (like old indys).

Now there's an idea. thanks

 

[volcano buster]

I have been watching this issue for several years. F-Bomb likes to sell his stomping boards to pound this build up of snow back down. Engineers wouldn't let it get up there in the first place. To minimize weight, Polaris has left the side skirts off. If you look at the older sleds, SKS's and their 141" equivalent from back in the 80's and early 90's they knew this was a problem and engineered out a solution. I have taken that and come up with an idea, but other interests have kept me from finishing it. I'll post photos maybe after this weekend of what I came up with.

 

[volcano buster]

Ok, got enough pictures to share. The material used is:

1/16"x1/2"x3/4" aluminum angle 12" long
1" - 1/4" x 20 SS allen head bolt (shallow head inside for track clearance)
1/4 x 20 SS nylock nut
6 black zip-ties
roughly 27" piece of black rubber base cove molding with lip/toe

This is per side. I didn't have a measurement for the running board width with me when I stopped by the lumber yard to check out the cove base. I ordered in a 6" tall piece instead of the standard (in stock and in colors if you don't want black) 4". As it turns out, the cheaper and readily available 4" would work fine, but I used the 6" since I now had it. By the way, the 6" can be ordered in by the roll, which would be overkill or 4' pieces, so I had to order 2. The lip or toe of the molding works well for running up the side of the tunnel under the pinch point (aluminum bracket) and again for the rear tie in point.

My purpose was to keep snow from being thrown up from the rear radius of the track up onto the running boards and the rear portion of the sled and rider. Also, not knowing if this was actually going to work, or need minor adjustments, I have done no harm to the sled. I was able to use the 1/4" hole in the side of the tunnel to bolt the pinch bracket into, then used the zip-ties in the rear so the piece could move up and down the bumper a little if it needed to and also zip-ties through the two rear holes in the running board.

I think this will provide the protection I wanted yet allow some flop in the flap so that it will float around things, or not bust your shin if you bump into it.

With the rubber material being flat black (which blends nicely with the tank, seat and track) it does not show up very well in pictures without too much prep work and back-lighting I suppose. Last I remember, the aluminum was bought in a 4' piece so I could make enough for 2 sleds, and the 4" molding is about $0.89/foot. The bolt/nut and zip-ties are relatively inexpensive, so if this works, I won't have too much invested in it. I guess I will have just as much invested in it if it doesn't work too. Had to try it though.

Comments?

 

[retiredpop]

Thanks for sharing your idea. I think I will follow your instructions and make some for our sleds. They look pretty good too.

 

[volcano buster]

Follow up.

The rear 2 zip-ties are located on the rubber where I put two small notches on the outside of the rubber. __ _____ __
U U

This is exaggerated, but you get the idea, so when the zip tie is wrapped on it, it should stay in those small grooves, two on each side.

The front of the piece has the diagonal cut on it. The 2 holes closest (parallel) to the diagonal line up with the back edge of the holes in the running board. The row of 4 holes (again parallel to the diagonal edge) are lining up with the back edge of the running board. This way, a set of 3 holes (1 in running board, and 2 behind) allow for a zip-tie in each set to form a "V" to help triangulate to get a better grip on the aluminum to keep the rubber from moving.

After some field testing, if I like how this is working, then I could drill a hole in the bottom of the bumper and put a windshield dart type device in it to get rid of the zip-ties. Currently, I like the idea that it is all reversible and has no effect on the sled at all (no holes or modifications). I suppose I could also use some flat aluminum plate on top and bottom of the front attaching points and run 2 small bolts through, but that is more work, money and weight than the current zip-tie system.

Quick tip: I use spent shell casings for cutting holes in soft material like this rubber. I pick up used casings out in the woods where people shoot and leave them. I have anywhere from a .22 up to .50 if needed. Put the bottom of the casing (shell) in a 1/2" drill (I like cordless because it tends to spin slower and shuts off quicker) and turn slowly against a good file and sharpen the edge of the opening until it is close to sharp. Now, use the drill and shell to cut holes in soft material with ease. I like to use the drill and spin it instead of hammering it through because it makes a nice hole and doesn't smash up the cutter.

 

[Snodawg]

Those famous engineers also figured out that with the running boards extending to the very back it would prevent the track from digging into the snow and the sled would basically suspend itself by the running boards. Then some companies such as Van Amburg, made some kits to retrofit the older sleds. That is why the newer mountain sleds are built that way.

You could always trade your mountain sled for a touring sled.

 

[volcano buster]

Good point.

The older sleds didn't have the suspension dropping out from the tunnel nearly like the sleds today so they would run into issues. That is another reason I am curious to see if the flexible extension allows the tunnel to expel snow to the sides yet bend out of the way in deep snow.

There was a new 2011 Assault 144" at Puyallup last weekend. Those sleds have a piece very similar in size and shape to what I made, but of the tunnel aluminum just extending out. Should have taken a picture of it because it had been tweaked somewhere along the way and looked kind of rough. Especially since this was at the Corporate Polaris booth to boot.