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Gen III Questions

B

BordnBill

Free Member
Just installed my Gen III's on my 08 Nytro MTX. First question is, is it normal that the Simmons saddle bolt in flush with the nyloc nut? From the looks of it, it looks like the bolt is just touching the nylon portion. I guess I'm use to the OEM bolt that sticks out about 1/2" past the nut.

Other question is, I noticed my OEM rubber saddles are pretty rough, so I need to get new one's. Microfiche is calling out two different numbers for these. 8-GL-23743-00-00 for the 08 and for the 09+ it is, 8-GP-23743-00-00. Other than the GL, GP difference in the number and price, they look the same. Should I go for the newer rubber or just stick with the 08 number? I did have to modify my OEM rubbers so they would sit flush on the Simmons Ski Saddles. The bolts were keeping the rubber from sitting flush.

Last question is, I notice that with the OEM saddles on the Simmons skis, there is not much up and down pivot when the skis are off the ground. This makes me nervous as when I come down hills onto the trail, I need to have some ski pivot. Is this normal?

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
check the microfiche part number on the ski itself for each year. Not sure when it happened, but they kept changing designs of the skis, so if the skis have the same part number, I'd go with the cheaper rubber; but if they have different part number I'd stick to the rubber for the '08 just to make sure it fits. Microfiche is notorious for recycling the diagrams so the parts look the same but changing the numbers to actually suit the year, make and model.
 
HDEMWET said:
check the microfiche part number on the ski itself for each year. Not sure when it happened, but they kept changing designs of the skis, so if the skis have the same part number, I'd go with the cheaper rubber; but if they have different part number I'd stick to the rubber for the '08 just to make sure it fits. Microfiche is notorious for recycling the diagrams so the parts look the same but changing the numbers to actually suit the year, make and model.
Click to expand...


I must have been half asleep when I looked those numbers up. I think in 08, I was looking at the 40th anniversary RTX rather than the MTX. MTX from 08-11 take the 8GP rubbers. Of course it's the more spendy one.
 
Is everyone aware who has gen 3s from last year that there is an update from simmons on the long wear bars? Call them and they will send out a replacement pair free.
 
They added one more stud as when the ski flexes the front of the wear bar can droP down and get ripped off. We actually had one in our group do that.
 
you'll know if you have the update if one of the wear bars has one really long stud on the front, and the top side has a little spacer that is shaped to follow the profile of the ski which goes under the nut
 
Good write up. In your pictures, I notice you have a least a few threads exposed when torqued down. My bolt is flush with the nut, so I don't think I'm getting a whole lot of nyloc nut. I may just go down to the local store and get a longer bolt. I also ordered new rubber saddles as mine are a little rough looking and I had to modify them to sit flush within the Simmons saddle.
 
Thistledoo said:
They added one more stud as when the ski flexes the front of the wear bar can droP down and get ripped off. We actually had one in our group do that.
Click to expand...

Had that happen to one ski last winter as well.
 
Typical bolt/nut engagement is at least one diameter of the bolt sticking out past the nut.

I have the Gen III's and just got a 'surprise' box from Simmons last week. Like it's been said, the new/replacement long wear-bar has a stud on the nose of it. The procedure is to drill a 3/8" hole through the ski in the pocket that covered the nose of the original wear-bar. The replacements come with a tapered bushing that straddles the rib on top of the ski so the nut has a flat surface to tighten against. In the end you'll have 3 studs holding the long bar on.
 
Last edited:
christopher said:
Beats the heck out of me.
The thread is there, and I double checked the link.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249492
Click to expand...

So when your reversed your rubber, the steep/shorter part is towards the back of the ski? I believe stock the steep/short part is in the front? I measured the bolt and it's 5" and I'm sitting flush with the nyloc nut. I think I'm going to hit up a nut and bolt shop tomorrow and looks for a 5.25" bolt. First 2 pictures show the bolt in relation to the nut. Doesn't look like it's "biting" much. 3rd picture is showing the rubber being crushed by the spindle. The gap between the rubber and the bottom of the saddle is being caused by the saddle bolts to the ski. 4th and 5th pictures show the gap between rubber and saddle. Originally I had the longer end up front and had to cut out some notches for the rubber to sit flush. When I flipped them around to the stock position, I didn't cut anything and looks like I will have to remove some rubber in order to get it to sit flush.

Bolt2 - Copy.JPG Bolt - Copy.JPG Crushed - Copy.JPG Gap2 - Copy.JPG Gap - Copy.JPG
 
Last edited:
christopher said:
seems like I remember mounting mine backwards the first time around as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was running the reversed rubber with a shim and I removed the shim and just reinstalled the rubber the same way. I flipped it around, but either way, the bolts up front on the saddle still don't allow the rubber to sit flush. I'm thinking if the rubber sat flush, then the crushing of the rubber won't happen.
 
**Update**

Talked with Val Simmons today about the Gen III's. He said that the bolt is 10mm X 120mm and should have 1-2 threads exposed when properly torqued. Not sure what the deal with mine is, but I went to the local bolt store and ordered (4) 10mm X 130mm Grade 5 coated bolts. I figure to keep an extra or two for spares. Now with the OEM rubber, Val runs his in the reversed position to add more ski pressure on the back of the ski. He said that it's normal for the rubber to not sit flush because of the bolts that hold the saddle to the plastic ski. He says this doesn't affect anything on the mounting or function of the ski. He said you can also notch it out around the bolt if it bothers you. He said that they fit of the ski onto the mount should be tight, so there is no slop. So, with that said, I ordered new OEM Rubber things to replace my torn up ones. Thumbs up for Val and Hope at Simmons ski's for helping me out. And Val runs a Nytro as well.
 
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