Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Gearing down the Pro?

Mike 31x

Member
Lifetime Membership
Wondering if anyone has had good experience gearing down these things for a little extra grunt. I could care less about top speed on the trail, i love boondocking but id rather highmark than do anything else. Let me know what you think, and what you changed the gearing to. Thanks.
 
I cant speak for what works best with stock clutching, but we are down to 19/46 and wish we could go lower with the clutching we are using....it flat works.
 
winterbrew, are you using a 74P chain with that combo ? I'm currently running 20/45 with a 74P chain and was a big improvement, but I have 19 & 46 tooth gears and have been thinking of giving them a try. I haven't spent any money on clutching components yet, but did have an SLP black/yellow spring to try. It's a 120/310 vs the stock 140/330. Engagement is slightly lower (which I like), and sled still hits 8,200 rpm. Time to get to work on the clutching or keep bugging you to sort it out, so I can just buy the right stuff the first time.
 
Last edited:
winterbrew, are you using a 74P chain with that combo ? I'm currently running 20/45 with a 74P chain and was a big improvement, but I have 19 & 46 tooth gears and have been thinking of giving them a try. I haven't spent any money on clutching components yet, but did have an SLP black/yellow spring to try. It's a 120/310 vs the stock 140/330. Engagement is slightly lower (which I like), and sled still hits 8,200 rpm. Time to get to work on the clutching or keep bugging you to sort it out, so I can just buy the right stuff the first time.

If you're dropping a tooth on top but adding a tooth on the bottom the chain you are using now should still work.
 
Why change the stock chain? will dropping a tooth on top to a 19 give too much pitch to stock chain?

I'm pretty sure that if you drop to a 19T on top and keep the stock 42T bottom gear, the 72P chain works fine. I went to 20/45 and that combo required a 74P chain.
 
You can actually run 19/43 with the stock chain. That's what I put in and it seems to work well and its pretty close to the same ratio as 20/45. I'm not sure if 20/45 would be more efficient since the chain is traveling aroung a larger radius, or if it would be worse for the fact that you have to run a longer chain so you have more rotating mass.
 
You can actually run 19/43 with the stock chain. That's what I put in and it seems to work well and its pretty close to the same ratio as 20/45. I'm not sure if 20/45 would be more efficient since the chain is traveling aroung a larger radius, or if it would be worse for the fact that you have to run a longer chain so you have more rotating mass.

6 of 1, 1/2 dozen i think. 19 was the top for years, so i don't think it is a real issue. the heavier chain certainly would add a tad. i dropped top to 19 since i had a couple lying around. i like it better. think i will get a 43 for the bottom and call it good. 'course, i'd need some snow to ride...:ranger:
 
Would it make a difference if you have more or less slack in the chain for efficiency. If more slack the will the dog leg in the chain take away efficiency?
 
Would it make a difference if you have more or less slack in the chain for efficiency. If more slack the will the dog leg in the chain take away efficiency?


Splitting hairs....I think if a guy was going for speed runs where every last bit of efficiency was needed it would be a factor. For the hills where we rarely get over 50mph there is no difference. Have geared with huge doglegs and no dogleg and there is no way to tell the difference unless you open the case.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top