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Gearing/Chain Question

So I picked up a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket today to gear up all across the board and then started thinking. Is 14 17 one of those combinations that can't be done without the 1/2 link BS on the main drive chain?

M5
 
So I picked up a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket today to gear up all across the board and then started thinking. Is 14 17 one of those combinations that can't be done without the 1/2 link BS on the main drive chain?

M5

I thought I could go with a 14-tooth countershaft sprocket if I just had a slightly longer chain, but I was wrong. A one-link longer chain (2 rollers) adds a surprising amount of slack -- it will actually droop down and rub on the track. I just ordered a half-link (will only add one roller). I have some reservations about the quality/durability of the half-link I ordered... it's definitely going to be the, uhh, "weak link". :face-icon-small-win

We'll see how it holds up... I guess I'll be carrying the 13-tooth sprocket with me in case the half-link gives out and I have to go back to the stock chain setup.
 
So after reading posts and working with the gear chart this is what I have decided. The wide ratio tranny has such a granny gear first and even second is low that I think I should be able to pull a 15 on the countershaft. Final drives are as follows:

13/17 17/20 .0304 What I have now which is way too short
14/17 17/20 .0327
15/17 17/20 .0350
12/17 20/17 .0388

I'm thinking the 388 is too tall for my motor/tranny combo but I think I can pull the 350, it should just move me down a gear all across the board. Thoughts?

M5
 
I have had to change the 17 to a 16 tooth Jack Shaft a couple of times to use a taller Counter Shaft.

That makes a lot of sense... so if I went up one tooth on the countershaft and down one tooth on the jackshaft, then I should be able to use the stock chain without an extra half-link? And going one tooth larger on the jackshaft would probably raise the gearing just a bit more, correct? Where do you get new jackshaft sprockets?
 
So here's the deal, 14 tooth and 15 tooth would both need a half link on my bike as it sits, just tried them both. My 12 tooth puts the chain tensioner basically into the track, so the smallest I can go is 13 tooth on the counter shaft. SO after a bunch of Fawking around it looks like I will need a 16 tooth from TS unless somebody has one they aren't using and you want to sell it?


M5
 
So here's the deal, 14 tooth and 15 tooth would both need a half link on my bike as it sits, just tried them both. My 12 tooth puts the chain tensioner basically into the track, so the smallest I can go is 13 tooth on the counter shaft. SO after a bunch of Fawking around it looks like I will need a 16 tooth from TS unless somebody has one they aren't using and you want to sell it?


M5

Another option for you which is what I am doing on my CR500 is run 13/17 - 17/17. This combination was the only way I could get the gearing ration I wanted without running a half-link. Running 17/17 in the chain case requires you to remove the tentioner assembly and the two stand offs on the left side of the chain.
 
...
12/17 20/17 .0388

I'm thinking the 388 is too tall for my motor/tranny combo but I think I can pull the 350, it should just move me down a gear all across the board. Thoughts?

M5

Relentless Rider is trying the .0388 combo on a 300exc. You may want to pm him and see what he found.
 
Last edited:
Relentless Rider is trying the .0388 combo on a 300exc. You may want to pm him and see what he found.


My chain has sub 25 rides on it but it has stretched to the point where I don't feel comfortable running the 12 tooth up front so that kinda eliminates that combo for me unless I buy another new chain which will stretch anyways. When tensioned up it is like 1/8th of an inch away from the track.

14/16 17/20 is 347 which is close to where I think I want to be.

That 13/17 17/17 is 357 that's a possibility as well. So you have no means of tensioning the chain case chain?

M5
 
My chain has sub 25 rides on it but it has stretched to the point where I don't feel comfortable running the 12 tooth up front so that kinda eliminates that combo for me unless I buy another new chain which will stretch anyways. When tensioned up it is like 1/8th of an inch away from the track.

14/16 17/20 is 347 which is close to where I think I want to be.

That 13/17 17/17 is 357 that's a possibility as well. So you have no means of tensioning the chain case chain?

M5

I do see that who ever is making Timbersled parts (there is a thread somewhere around here) is making a piece to replace the Timbersled tentioner triangle piece that will allow you to tension a 17/17 combo and 17/16 combo. I don't worry about it there is very little slack left in the chain with a 17/17 combo, less slack then I leave in my chain when riding dirt.
 
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