G
gman086
Well-known member
So the other day I decide to bolt up SLP's torque arm to help alleviate the motor mount and clutch twist issues with the '11 Pro. I should have known something was up when the salesman from Carl's says "okay, yeah, we have those and it's not... toooooooo bad of a job to install." Whenever someone hesitates on answering = it is going to be a BEEYATCH to install! LOL! Well it turns out you need to pull the exhaust system... no big deal, right? Well you need to remove the Y-pipe = bigger deal than I thought. Here's my tip - IF you buy this kit then BUY THE FREAKIN Y-PIPE GASKET TOO (part no. 5813549)! Why didn't Carl's tell me this?! 
SLP's website clearly states that you should buy this if you get the kit (they sell the gaskets). The Pro runs so hot that there is NO WAY you save the old gasket for this job. It is cemented so hard to both motor and Y-pipe that you had BETTER have some gasket remover spray handy too! This is not a half hour job - I spent about an hour getting the surfaces cleaned up and Y-pipe, exhaust ports cleaned! More tips - adjust your chain tension, check the oil pump setting, and check the motor mount torque (48 N*m) with the can removed. Also a good time to re-route your exhaust valve hose to the front where it won't be so messy. Y Pipe bolts are supposed to be 30 N*m but that's pretty tight - I went about 25 and called it good (tough to get accurate readings anyway with a ball end allen key at an angle!). There IS a torque sequence - cross pattern for the inner ones first then circular pattern for the outer ones. NO LOCTITE - bolts are large enough that the lock washers work well and the bolts are a LOT easier to deal with for removing/installing without loctite. A 6mm ball end allen socket is an absolute must for the job. Use the GRAY springs for the y-pipe to pipe connection!!! These are STAINLESS STEEL and more durable than the yellow zinc-plated ones used for the stock muffler/can - need to know this! Also, SLP calls for loctite 262, for the torque arm fasteners, which is purple and HARD to find! I simply mix red and blue which gives about the same strength - medium/high (and color too, lol - wonder if that's all it is?). Other than that, piece of cake! 
Have FUN!
G MAN
SLP's website clearly states that you should buy this if you get the kit (they sell the gaskets). The Pro runs so hot that there is NO WAY you save the old gasket for this job. It is cemented so hard to both motor and Y-pipe that you had BETTER have some gasket remover spray handy too! This is not a half hour job - I spent about an hour getting the surfaces cleaned up and Y-pipe, exhaust ports cleaned! More tips - adjust your chain tension, check the oil pump setting, and check the motor mount torque (48 N*m) with the can removed. Also a good time to re-route your exhaust valve hose to the front where it won't be so messy. Y Pipe bolts are supposed to be 30 N*m but that's pretty tight - I went about 25 and called it good (tough to get accurate readings anyway with a ball end allen key at an angle!). There IS a torque sequence - cross pattern for the inner ones first then circular pattern for the outer ones. NO LOCTITE - bolts are large enough that the lock washers work well and the bolts are a LOT easier to deal with for removing/installing without loctite. A 6mm ball end allen socket is an absolute must for the job. Use the GRAY springs for the y-pipe to pipe connection!!! These are STAINLESS STEEL and more durable than the yellow zinc-plated ones used for the stock muffler/can - need to know this! Also, SLP calls for loctite 262, for the torque arm fasteners, which is purple and HARD to find! I simply mix red and blue which gives about the same strength - medium/high (and color too, lol - wonder if that's all it is?). Other than that, piece of cake! Have FUN!
G MAN
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