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FYI-2013 Lower A Arm Glue Joint Fail!

FYI- 2013 800 Pro-ride RMK 163.

Right front lower A arm bonded joint (rear tube) glue bond failed at tube to forged joint.
Sitting on floor the failed joint was not readily apparent but when rolled on it's side the tube slid out of the joint about ½ inch. There was no damage to the A arm to cause this failure, the glue just seems to have let go. The A arm is being replaced under warranty but everyone should raise the skies off the ground and exam these joints (pull on them-move them around).
Would have been a nasty surprise having it come apart while riding.
Just an FYI
Merry Christmas.

IMG_20151212_131620_247.jpg
 
another good reason to upgrade to a KMOD or AI front end. There are pics on here somewhere of a guys sled that had one come apart when he was running hard down the trail.
 
Just had the exact same thing happen to me last weekend. Was probably 20 miles from the truck when it happened. Again no damage to arm just looks as the glue failed. Was able to tie the tube back into the socket with nylon webbing and carefully rid it out. What a crap deal this is. How did you go about getting it warrantied from Polaris? Mine is a 2013 pro. Warranty has ran out on sled.
 
Had a friend with us yesterday 2013 Pro RMK. Same thing A arm came out of socket. Took out both A arms, shock, steering arm, etc. We were able to get one joint back together and hold it together with some rope we had. Dropped it off at local dealership and they said warranty on this item is "case by case". He has the 4 yr warranty as well.
 
had a 2013, A arm came unglued after landing a jump, took out a lot of other parts with it.
Took it to the dealer, Polaris wouldn't cover the repair (this was in 2013!)

I now have a 2015, A Arm came unglued but no other parts bent/broke. Polaris fixed it under warranty.

I'd take the xtra few pounds to not have my **** glued together.
 
Got some replacement arms in the mail yeaturday. Love that UPS guy. Anyway new welded arms from WPS. They are a little heavier but no fricking glue. Will install tomorrow. Terry G
 
Got some replacement arms in the mail yeaturday. Love that UPS guy. Anyway new welded arms from WPS. They are a little heavier but no fricking glue. Will install tomorrow. Terry G

details?

who makes? pics. etc...

thanks
 
Installed timbersled SR A arm kit after noticed the tubes sliding out on my lower arms on my 13 . My 15 has been better so far , but keeping an eye on them.:face-icon-small-con
 
Got some replacement arms in the mail yeaturday. Love that UPS guy. Anyway new welded arms from WPS. They are a little heavier but no fricking glue. Will install tomorrow. Terry G

I wasn't aware of any WPS welded arms that used the 2013-15 Pro RMK length stock shocks (16.68").... I thought all of the WPS Welded arms were for the 2011/12 (17.5") shocks??
 
Well I'm glad they seem to have that fixed for the 2015's because I hit a hellacious stump going up a slight incline today that set me flying over the handlebars. A Arms still intact.
 
Well I'm glad they seem to have that fixed for the 2015's because I hit a hellacious stump going up a slight incline today that set me flying over the handlebars. A Arms still intact.

i lost an a arm on my '15 pro..didn't even hit anything..
 
timber sled sr arms were what i went with cost less than stock ,lighter and stronger . plus you can interchange with stock if you are in a pinch.
 
A friends A arm got unglued the same way and he didn't get anything on warranty...

Since it was all good aside from the glue he bought some industrial strength glue and we glued it back up again, drilled and put in a bolt to secure it.

Has worked fine all last season so that's a cheap fix and if yours isn't broken yet, and you don't want to buy new or aftermarket, a tip is to drill and put in a bolt or pop rivet and it's more likely to hold up! (Have heard of some actually riveted from the factory)
 
I just purchased a 2013 RMK Pro, with this issue on the left side. Didn't notice it when we loaded it on the trailer, but when backing off the trailer it was very evident that the adhesive had failed. Does anyone know what type of adhesive was originally used on this joint?

Nothing wrong with the rest of it at this point, but don't want to chance it on a trip somewhere. Thinking about using adhesive as well as drill and pin the joint. Just don't want to reduce the strength by drilling a hole in it as well. If someone has done this, could you drop a couple pictures on here to show what you have done and how it is working for you?
 
you need need to replace the arm ,there is no real effective repair for this type of arm that will be strong and last .
 
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