Fuel Control Boxes

[Cascade Addiction]

Does anyone have any good info on the various fuel control boxes out there. The turbos were going through them like crazy this year, but does anyone have any info, good or bad on Power Addictions Ultimate combo or the SLP stage 3 and 4 kits. Are the stage kits worth the money compared to upping the anty and going turbo. I ran a PA head this year and had "0" problems, pull n go all year...but I want more for 13' but do not want a turbo, and leery of a kit that has to run a fuel controller. I know of not one this year on 11' and 12's that ran for more than half a day without problems. Most came back to the fuel controller and I know of one sled that went through 5 of them. I'm looking into a stage kit or Brad's, but how did they run, any info would be great, Thanks guys.

 

[xmk1080]

Stage Kits

Thats nice to know and would like to hear more on this subject. This will also help me determine what i'm going to do. Lets hear everyones opinions on stage tuning! Who does the best port work(do you need to modify the air box), who builds the best pipe, head, etc. If you search the threads some people say that they can't tell a difference from a good running stock sled to a stage 4, but that just could be in the clutching. I think that I'm leaning towards a head, mild porting, blueprinted motor with a new balanced fuji crankshaft and stock exhaust. But I would really like to try a pipe

 

[ditch1000]

Does anyone have any good info on the various fuel control boxes out there. The turbos were going through them like crazy this year, but does anyone have any info, good or bad on Power Addictions Ultimate combo or the SLP stage 3 and 4 kits. Are the stage kits worth the money compared to upping the anty and going turbo. I ran a PA head this year and had "0" problems, pull n go all year...but I want more for 13' but do not want a turbo, and leery of a kit that has to run a fuel controller. I know of not one this year on 11' and 12's that ran for more than half a day without problems. Most came back to the fuel controller and I know of one sled that went through 5 of them. I'm looking into a stage kit or Brad's, but how did they run, any info would be great, Thanks guys.

Fuel controllers are a pain!! I had an M1000 before my 2012 Pro and the fuel controllers were nothing but a problem. I had a Boondocker on it to start with an Slp single pipe; it was just inconsistent and the sled would never run the same 2 days in a row. I bought a PC5 with the SLP map; this worked pretty good and ran strong. I could not leave well enough alone so I put my BDX intake back on it and got a map from RacinStation; all of a sudden the sled would just die for no reason. After about 30 pulls it would fire back up; I took the PC5 off to see if this was the problem and had no more issues with the sled dieing.
Finally I just took off the pipe and airbox and just ran a Y pipe with the stock pipe and tried an attitude fuel controller; the fuel contoller would make the sled pig rich even with 1 adjustment on the lights. I set the all lights to the stock setting after trying to make it run for a month and just tuned it with a fuel pressure regulator. This is where the sled ran great.
IMHO the best mods are clutching, a C3 belt drive and maybe a head. I did the Team Tied Secondary on my 2012 Pro and love it; on uphill drags I gained 3-4 sled lengths over an idendtical 2012 Pro with no Team Tied on it. I think there is more to be gained there than piping the Pro. Also there seems to be alot of positve feedback on adding the Power Addiction Head; I may do this down the road, but my sled runs great as is so I'm not in any rush to change anything on the motor.

 

[OutWest]

Does anyone have a answer on why these boxes dont last on the turbo sleds? And why doesnt they break on na tuned sleds? My guess it that it has to be a problem with the operator of the sled or the person who installed the kit?

 

[tool_man]

I know Dynoport claims no controller required, and SLP recommends one. Anyone run SLP pipe/can without a controller with good results?

 

[Hardass]

I run a controller (attitude)m1000 and it works great. I'm not sure about the others i need adjustability in case i feel somethings not right and i get it with this. I don't like the pc5 because of no in field adjustibility

 

[rydningen]

I am currently running Brads ultimate combo on my sled. PA 12.5 Head, SLP pipe, SLP intake and a PCV with the mapping Brad supplies for this setup.

I have had zero issues with this setup, put 1000miles on it this season, pull and go.

I think the PCV is an excellent tool to give the sled the fuel it requires after mods. But I guess some of the problems described above can be connected to the electrical problems which has haunted the polaris 800cfi in the past.

As far as sleds running like crap after a map change, dont blame that on the controller...if you run the wrong map for your setup then off course your sled wont run like it should.

I ran the SLP stage 2 setup before going with Brads head and map, IMO go for a head change right away. This makes for a big difference on these sleds. Had to put on 2g of weight (MTX weights) after putting the head on ...in addition to significantly improved throttle response.

To sum it up, the PCV has worked great for me and others I know that run it. Run the appropriate map for your setup and altitude. Power addictions ultimate combo or SLP stage 3 is the way to go.

Remember, this is just my opinion!

 

[clunker]

What's the highest altitude u run with that combo

 

[edavis0202]

I'm doing the PAR head, Mountian Tek "The Fix" Kit, MDS weights, and Super-Q can. I went as far as I could without having to run a fuel controller for the simple fact of having the headache.

If what brad says is true I should be very happy with this combination without sacrificing reliability.

Just an option!

 

[rydningen]

What's the highest altitude u run with that combo

I am running mostly at sealevel. But have been at about 4000ft for half a day.

Cannot say anything about power loss at alt with this setup, but then again that can be easily adressed with different domes for the PAR head.

 

[Vi-PEC Powersports]

with our PnP ECU you can mod your sled as you wish, it can take care of any mods. altitude compensating,powervalve opening rpm,multiple maps on the fly,any type of fuel, customized fail safe mode ect....1 to 1 replacement with base map (n/a) built in.full software for free with ECU.Brad at PAR is now using our ECU on all his mod kit(910 stroker,1100 billet motor), so his curt at fastraxx,push turbo,hm turbos ect...exciting year this year!!

 

[geo]

Pull and go in the performance world is a luxury IMO. If you have it enjoy. IMO there is no such thing.

Even a stock sled needs maintenance to stay the same throughout a season. Add some mods and your closer to the edge and more maintenance is required. When someone says "pull and go" all season I understand what that means. That means that person knows how to maintain their clutches, belt, track, etc. and spends the bit of time every couple of rides to keep it tip top.

IMO nothing has been "pull and go all season" since Yamaha retired the ET340 LOL. That statement can be misleading to someone who is jumping into the "mod world" for the first time.
It has to be frustrating to the aftermarket guys to answer the phone and tell the person on the other end to check their belt deflection and the bog may disappear.

The reason for that is load dictates the amount of fuel an engine needs. Change the load significantly and the fuel requirements change significantly too. Snowmobile engines are loaded through the clutches, gearing and snow conditions. We all know how many different combinations of those factors there are out there LOL.
Change the snow and-or how clean the clutches and belt are and you could have two identical sleds show different wash and plugs with the same map. One could have a "glitch" and the other run perfect.
Throw in a few thousand feet of elevation difference during the days ride and the difference in HP that creates. Throw in the small differences in HP from motor to motor. It becomes difficult to believe that one map will fit all and rarely does. Some of the companies do a real good job of getting a good all around map though. Cudos to them. It is hard to do. Remember that when you jump into the mod world and have to phone for a glitch.

Carbs were a little easier to get "close for everyone" because velocity (engine demand for air) also dictated how much fuel was fed to a point. EFI does not have that variable until we get a mass air flow sensor that can take the pounding.
So, it's fine to have all that adjustability on the PnP. PCV has fine graduations for fuel adjustments and the latest Boony Box program is pretty good too. But, if your jumping in to the mod world you need to listen real close to the package-map supplier for their clutching recommendations. Even lowering engagement rpm with a different primary spring can throw out all the hard work they put into the map design.

If you like to play with clutching you need to know how to read plugs, wash and EGT's specific to your sled so you can change the map for your sled. Or just bolt in their package and enjoy. But remember, if your stage 4 or ultimate kit gets beat by a stocker it's because that guy knows how to keep a "pull and go" sled running right.

 

[rydningen]

Good post geo!

You are right about the "Pull and go" statement....sleds require meticulous and correct maintenance all the time to prevent failures, and to keep performance up.

I have seen many piped and modded sleds with totally worn out clutches due to poor or no maintenance. They all run like crap.

Clucthing is VERY important. I completely go through my clutches about two times a year depending on mileage.

One thing to keep close attention to on the Polaris primary clutches is the weight bushings. They will wear out rather quickly and cause the weight to move out of position against the rotational direction. Eventually it will contact the aluminium surface of the spider. Voila...you have a worthless clucth because of a 1dollar bushing!

 

[OutWest]

Thats nice to know and would like to hear more on this subject. This will also help me determine what i'm going to do. Lets hear everyones opinions on stage tuning! Who does the best port work(do you need to modify the air box), who builds the best pipe, head, etc. If you search the threads some people say that they can't tell a difference from a good running stock sled to a stage 4, but that just could be in the clutching. I think that I'm leaning towards a head, mild porting, blueprinted motor with a new balanced fuji crankshaft and stock exhaust. But I would really like to try a pipe

Hi. I have a swb assault 2011 with some engine mods. Slp pipe and can, its ported a bit more then trail porting, v-force 3, 2.5 degree offset key, 1mm shim kit, pc5, wideband2 with lcd touch screen, PAR head and heelclicker 2speed clutch kit on the primary. I have to say that it rips hard when the hill is getting steep, i haven`t been stuck one single time this year. If i am keeping the sled i am going to buy a carl`s clutch kit. Top speed without trying to hard was 113mph, a xf 1100 turbo with hijacker 1.9 couldn`t keep up with my sled.