Fox floats bleeding off green oil when I connect the pump? Plus rebuild questions

[600xc4me]

Going on about 1600 miles on my front fox floats, never really had to adjust them, but every time I would screw the pump onto the shock, the shock would bleed out a green oil, it always only let out a bit, but now it lets out quite a bit, enough to get a few drips on the floor. Is this a sign that they are due for new seals?

Also on one shock sags a bit. It's at 115 lbs, and if you take weight off the front of the sled, then set it back down that shock will compress about an inch or a bit over. Rebuild? The other side shock was at 115 as well, and has held pressure just fine till now, but I checked it today and it's down to 105 lbs since April. Rebuild?

Also noticed on my last few rides that the shocks are leaking a tad bit of oil on the shaft seal, not a lot, but enough to make a nice line on the shaft. Also just a sign of being due for new seals?

 

[MARV1]

Wow, stiffly setup. My Floats are set at 45lbs, sag in about 1.5".

 

[mountainhorse]

The green oil is normal.. it is the the same fox oil that comes with your shocks in the little plastic vials... adding oil is part of the maint process...... Have a look at the owners manual that came with your shocks.

More oil will come out if the shocks are "aired up" after sitting for a while... the IQ's mount the air valve at the bottom on install...gravity and lack of use allow it to "pool" at the air valve.

You should have them serviced at that mileage anyway...
Get them done at Carls....They really know that shock.. if your riding weight and style is outside of normal...they can also custom valve them for you .

That is HUGE air pressure for the IQ RMK chassis... should be more in the 75 lb range... your ride height will be out of spec at that pressure... harder steering and rough ride.

Air pressure should be checked often (at least every two weeks... more if you ride a lot... also changes based on temperature.... 5 lbs one way or the other makes a decent difference.

The "shaft" seal that you are talkning about is actually only the air chamber seal... the shaft is inside the chamber.

If you are selling the sled to upgrade to a 2011... these floats will switch over.
Worth getting the float 2 conversion done while being serviced.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[600xc4me]

Wow, stiffly setup. My Floats are set at 45lbs, sag in about 1.5".

Wow yeah I guess so! Shocks came that way when I bought the sled, they were already installed. I guess I'll drop it next winter and see how is feels. Can't complain now though, LOVE the way my sled handles.

The green oil is normal.. it is the the same fox oil that comes with your shocks in the little plastic vials... adding oil is part of the maint process...... Have a look at the owners manual that came with your shocks.

More oil will come out if the shocks are "aired up" after sitting for a while... the IQ's mount the air valve at the bottom on install...gravity and lack of use allow it to "pool" at the air valve.

Awesome good to know. Thanks. That all makes sense, sled has been sitting for a month now, so that explains why it's worse now. I bought the sled with the shocks installed, so I didn't get any extra oil vials with it... or owners manual for that matter.

You should have them serviced at that mileage anyway...
Get them done at Carls....They really know that shock.. if your riding weight and style is outside of normal...they can also custom valve them for you .

Any idea what they charge? How about for the upgrade to float 2 that you mention farther down? It's a LONG way for me to ship them so I want it to be worth it.

That is HUGE air pressure for the IQ RMK chassis... should be more in the 75 lb range... your ride height will be out of spec at that pressure... harder steering and rough ride.

Interesting, good to know. I bought the sled with the shocks on it, pumped up to this range, I have just kept them here, never thought anything of it. I had never heard how stiff they were supposed to be run, so I just kept it around this range. All I knew is I LOVE how it handles, more so than an 09 with the new sway bar. I'm running without a sway bar, and at this pressure I have very little body roll, but still can feel the positive effect of no sway bar when sidehilling or carving. Your right it does sit higher than any IQ with stock shocks, but I haven't noticed any negative effects of that, I will how ever drop the pressure to 75 lbs for next winter and see how I like the sled then.

Air pressure should be checked often (at least every two weeks... more if you ride a lot... also changes based on temperature.... 5 lbs one way or the other makes a decent difference.

Ok thanks, I have checked them maybe five times this past winter, and found them both to be with in 5 lbs every time, and yes you can feel it when one is 5 lbs lower. No doubt.

The "shaft" seal that you are talking about is actually only the air chamber seal... the shaft is inside the chamber.

Odd. Ok so are the little oil rings on the shaft not coming from the shock it self then? Cause you can always see how far the shaft has compressed into the chamber, it leaves a light ring of oil. Kind of like guys use snap ties to check shock travel, only this is oil.

If you are selling the sled to upgrade to a 2011... these floats will switch over.

I wish I could. I was trying for all I was worth to sell the sled, but never got a buyer serious enough to take it home. Was a good grand under most stock sled prices, and still couldn't get rid of it. But now that the motor held together for the better part of the year and it actually started to run good I'm keeping it and just dumping more money into it.

Worth getting the float 2 conversion done while being serviced.

Again any idea on what they charge?

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks. Always good info from you, I learned I lot here.

 

[mountainhorse]

Also forgot to add...

Check the air pressure with the ski off the ground... at the temp you are riding at... tilt it to one side and have a buddy hold the handlebars while you check or use a floor jack to lift it up.

Then check it on the mountain once at temp.

Here are some dwgs to help you understand your shocks.

You should be able to find a FOX shock service center in Canada somewhere...

Do not Confuse checking/changing the air chamber seal with a full service which involves de-pressurizing the high-pressure nitrogen behind the IFP, changing the shock oil, checking and changing all internal seals and recharging the nitrogen.

Do you still have the contact info for the person that sold you the sled??

You should check with him/her where they bought the shocks to find out where they were purchased from.

You can double check what the shocks are from by getting the serial numbers off of the shocks and emailing powersportsAM@foxracingshox.com
With these numbers asking them "can you please tell me what model snowmobile these fox floats were made for?"

They can also direct you to a Fox Float Snowmobile service center in your area.

Many people buy shocks from another brand or model sled (like a cat M series)...if so, the valving is not correct and/or the extended shock length (center of eye to center of eye is not correct (17" for the Polaris IQ-RMK's)

If the shock is 1/2" (13mm) or less longer than the 17", the shock shaft/piston can be shimmed with a spacer to get the correct center to center lenght...this is dirt cheap to do.

You can download the owners manual at Foxracingshox.com in their tech section.

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/08_float_atv_snow_manual.pdf

What shocks are in your rear skid? (Dragon (Walker Evans Air), Standard black steel Ryde-FX, or aftermarket (eg. Fox Zero Pro)

At that mileage they are due for service as well.

FIRST GENERATION FLOAT WITHOUT NEGATIVE-AIR-SPRING

FLOAT2 WITH NEGATIVE AIR-SPRING, HIGhFLOW PISTON AND HIGH VOLUME AIR CAP.

 

[mountainhorse]

Originally Posted by MARV1 View Post
Wow, stiffly setup. My Floats are set at 45lbs, sag in about 1.5".

Marv,

What is your ride height on the front?

What kind of Front Track Shock pre load are you running? (or nitrogen pressure in a WE Air)

Your limiter straps must be let out all the way?

That pressuere is about 30 lbs less than any other setup (with or without) a swaybar that I've ever seen on an IQ-RMK.

Everyone has a different recipe... and if that is what works for you then you should run it... I'm only trying to be helpful... please dont take it the otherwise.

 

[diamonddave]

Are you running a sway bar? That's the only reason I could see for running that kind of pressure. You shouldn't be getting drops of oil. A little thin green film on the shock is normal, not what you're describing.

 

[600xc4me]

Are you running a sway bar? That's the only reason I could see for running that kind of pressure. You shouldn't be getting drops of oil. A little thin green film on the shock is normal, not what you're describing.

I'm not no. I was thinking the same, maybe that's why he had them pumped up so high. Drops, you mean on the shaft or when adjusting pressure? On the shaft it's just a dark gray, almost black line, very minor, but there. And when adjusting the shocks I get a couple drops worth or green oil out the valve.

 

[mountainhorse]

Myself and all my buddies ride without a sway bar... 70 to 80 psi... all in 2007 + Dragons.

If you are looking for a high speed stability on the trail... MUCH better to run with the swaybar...

F-Bomb likes to run the swaybar Even with the EVOL X's... that is personal preference... Some like them, some don't.

The black line is just airborne dust/dirt sticking to the oil on the shaft, IMO.

Post up some pix... that is the best way to ask for help.

You really need to find out if the shocks are made for your sled (as outlined above)

Any nicks or pitting in the shock "body assembly"? (see third pic above)

 

[600xc4me]

Myself and all my buddies ride without a sway bar... 70 to 80 psi... all in 2007 + Dragons.

If you are looking for a high speed stability on the trail... MUCH better to run with the swaybar...

F-Bomb likes to run the swaybar Even with the EVOL X's... that is personal preference... Some like them, some don't.

The black line is just airborne dust/dirt sticking to the oil on the shaft, IMO.

Post up some pix... that is the best way to ask for help.

You really need to find out if the shocks are made for your sled (as outlined above)

Any nicks or pitting in the shock "body assembly"? (see third pic above)

I like it better with out sway bar as well. Always have.

Yeah you could be right, when I wipe it off it is definitely an oily substance, but could be mainly dirt and junk I guess. I clean it off but I'll see if I can get some lines again and post up pics.

Yep I will go check for the shock numbers right now and send that email. I'm curious as well.

I do have some minor nicks yes, I'll get pics of that too.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

MH, I run anywhere from 55 to 65 pds on my float2's..just depends on the kind of riding I am doing..but anything over 65 is just to stiff for my liking...mine has the 09/10 dragon swaybar in it also...

 

[skyman]

MH, I run anywhere from 55 to 65 pds on my float2's..just depends on the kind of riding I am doing..but anything over 65 is just to stiff for my liking...mine has the 09/10 dragon swaybar in it also...

I also run mine at 60#'s with a sway bar on float 2's seems to be just right for my riding style just my .02

 

[MARV1]

Marv,

What is your ride height on the front?

What kind of Front Track Shock pre load are you running? (or nitrogen pressure in a WE Air)

Your limiter straps must be let out all the way?

That pressuere is about 30 lbs less than any other setup (with or without) a swaybar that I've ever seen on an IQ-RMK.

Everyone has a different recipe... and if that is what works for you then you should run it... I'm only trying to be helpful... please dont take it the otherwise.

Front ride height is about the same as stock shocks, limiter straps are all the way out, running the el cheapo throw away shock in center with a little extra preload on the spring, Fox clicker in the rear with .375 springs. And yes, it is setup for how I like it for now. I am also running a swaybar as the rough terrain I ride in requires it. Ran without it for awhile last year when I broke one and ordered one up right away. My floats also have Fett Bros chambers installed.
My '09 Summit came with Fox Floats with swaybar removed and required about 75psi and still bottomed out on the terrain I ride before reaching the hills and powder. yes, I ride from my doorstep. I installed the swaybar and dropped the psi to about 45-50 with no more bottoming as the swaybar uses both shock pressures. Did the bottom front arm relocation mod('10) position and it works better. Still need to buy a holeless track or sell the whole thing and upgrade to new.

 

[green_denali]

shocks

I have evol x's, and I run mine (main chamber) usually between 60-65 psi,without the sway bar, anything more than that is to stiff IMO. Chris at Carls says to run them at 60 psi with sway bar & 65 psi without swaybar.

 

[mountainhorse]

Anything softer than 70 lbs for me, without a swaybar, float2's...I found that the front end would fold-under too easily and not give me predicable chassis characteristics when stuffing it back into the hill going down into the trees or to turn back uphill when going down....

BTW....I weigh 170 with gear on and ride a 155" (with or without the timbersled Mountain Tamer)

Also, side-hills: I learned from Allen Mangum, Dan Adams, Chris Burandt recently that I had a misconception about a-arms and side-hill...

I thought that you wanted the uphill front suspension arms to collapse to allow the sled to maintain a more level approach to the hill wnen in the sidehill.

What I have learned is that when the suspension can do this, there is not enough travel left in the a-arms/shocks to make up for the terrain differences (lumps, bumps, ruts, ices, stumps, rocks) that pop up.... the result is you get pitched back down the hill.

I also learned that weight transfer is much more important than "yanking" the sled on its side... since that yanking will have the sled self correcting and pitching you back to a neutral position.

From what I've learned, and what made these maneuvers easier, is that the front suspension needs to be firm enough to allow the sled to act in a predictable manner, to hold its position on edge, not to let the side panels "ride up" on the snow pack from a collapsed front on that side, and bite into the hill to hold the edge.... But soft enough to deal with the terrain you are riding on.

If you have SledHeads 5, check out the Bret Rasmussen section for some good head on side hill shots that show the suspension in slow motion.

With poor health and overall weakness last season, I discovered a better way to stay in control in the mountains in tricky terrain with less effort.

Setup is personal, that is mine that I learned from people that I trust.

Others have different ways and I'm sure that many of those different set-ups can ride circles around me and my abilities.... At that point, I think it is the rider more than the sled.

A good rider can make a poorly setup sled look good.. a well setup sled look even better... and a Poor rider (or one that is out of shape) on a Superbly setup sled look terrible.

 

[mountainhorse]

ttt