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Fox float re-valve for '09 M8...

MI1M600EFI

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Gents, I am about to send my rear skid shocks off to Andy (Gas Shock Repair) to have them reconditioned/re-valved.

I just got DeyCore canisters for the fronts, and for the float on the rear skid.

I'm 160lbs, so ~175lbs geared up and ready to ride. I've heard that Andy's valving is good for 200+ riders, and that Burandt valving is good for lighter guys like me. I'm not buying the Burandt kit... What about going to '11 M8 valving specs? I've read that the '11 valving is a drastic improvement over the '09 valving. ??

Looking for suggestions or input that that might be useful to me when I get the call from Andy about valving choices... I jump some, and climb some, but I'm not a RedBull rider, and I'm getting beat to death on rougher trails...

Thanks!!
Chris
 
Doesn't seem like you talked to Andy yet?

He will ask for the information you posted, and set up you shocks.

I woulndt get Burandt's valving unless thats what Andy says will work for you specifications. He can valve to suit you, and your style-and correct the harsh ride of the rear Floats.
 
I put my faith with Andy. I told him what I wanted and he hooked me up. Very fast service! I can't wait to try them out.
 
I only spoke with Andy a little today. He said box them up and send them and he'll call me to figure out valving when he gets them. I didn't realize that meant that he'd be able to just make them right for me, I thought I needed to give more direction.

I guess I'll just put my faith in him too! :)
 
Andy does a fine job for a VERY reasonable price. He's pleasant to deal with, he listens to what you want and he does exactly that. However, the best part is when you get the bill and it's less expensive than what you thought it might be. Then you start to wonder what other machines you have that might need the shocks done? :face-icon-small-dis Yes, put your faith in Andy. I have used him twice and couldn't be happier.
 
The more I think about it, the more I think I'll have him do all four shocks on my sled, rather than just the skid shocks. Then I'll likely have him go through the Fox shocks on the Z440 too, as I'm sure they need it... :)
 
A few years ago I had the rears revalved on my M7. I could tell immediately that the fronts were harsher after that so it's not a bad idea to do them all at the same time. The big benefit you get with the Burandt kit over just a standard revalve is a updated higher volume seal head for the float (similar to adding an external canister), and the higher flow valve pistons for both rear shocks. The suspension action is a bit more fluid with the updated pistons.

I'm 275lbs and run just slightly stiffer valving with my Burandt kit than the provided recommendations. The suspension tuner should be able to make adjustments if necessary for whoever the setup is for.
 
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love the burandt set up on my 09 for the rear. went with the Holz dual spring set up on the center shock (call matt at holz)... then I updated to float2's for the front. loved the overall change to the sled for my style. you can have your 09's updated to float2s, fox makes a kit. Ski
 
Well, Andy decided that with my lighter weight, using the 2011 M8 valving was going to be best for me. His valving is a little "firmer". I can't say how 2011 compares to Burandt, since I'm not paying hundreds of dollars for some inexpensive shims and a high volume chamber that I can duplicat with a $25 DeyCore air chamber. If anyone has the shim recipe for the Burandt valving, PM me and I'll add it to my spreadsheet that currently has '09 and '11 compared. Won't publish it, but it would be interesting to see...

So the end result is that if you're sub-200lbs, you probably want the '11+ valving. If you're 200+, go with Andy's valving. If you drink Redbull and burn money to keep warm, go Burandt. :)

And if you don't have any chambers on your original Float or Float II shocks, visit DeyCore and pick up a set of air chambers. He's getting $50 a pair for them right now, and will sell a single (for the rear shock) for $25. I think it was ~$85 shipped for all three, and they come with nice little aluminum clamp brackets instead of a zip tie...
 
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I'll look it up when I get home. It may not be too comparable with the suggested 09 or 11 revalve since the piston designs are different with the Burandt kit so keep that in mind.

FYI You can buy the actual Burant kit from WPS for $150 that includes the new seal head, both pistons, and two complete rebuild kits for the shocks. It just doesn't come with any of the valve shims just the paper that says the valve specs. That's what I did since I already have a collection of my own valve shims to use. The other $150 that is typically added to get the $300 price tag is the cost for any new shims and labor for install.
 
Doesn't it also include a high volume head or something like that?? Andy said the screw-on chambers I got will do the same thing for far less $. PM me the valving if you can, just for grins. If you know the piston orifice size, let me know what it is. I think I remember Andy saying it was way too big... ??
 
Yeah the new seal head has large pockets machined out in it so it increases the air chamber volume. If a guy wanted to you could actually pair it with an external canister to make the spring rate even less progressive.

Sorry I had visit the ER yesterday so I didn't get a chance to send you that valving spec. I have it written on my hand so I don't forget today.

Here's some pictures comparing what the standard and high flow pistons look like and the standard and high volume seal heads. Cat mostly used the old tech "standard" parts in their float shocks up until about 2013 with minimal valving to cut costs. If you really want to get creative you could buy the seal head for $65 and piston blanks for $17 (no o-ring or wearband on it) that doesn't have the bleed hole drilled and experiment with your own bleed hole size.

Fox standard piston.jpg Fox Evol style piston.jpg Fox standard seal head.jpg Fox high volume seal head.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. And for the Burandt valving specs.

Burandt specs pistons with even bigger orifices than the '11 specs, which are of course bigger than the '10 down... Valving stacks in the '11 and Burandt versions are... Well, valving is an art... My guess is that the Burandt setup relies more on the valving, and less on the oriface, while the 2011 specs rely on the oriface for high speed damping. ??

Since there's a lot more to the Burandt kit than just valving, I'll post the valving below... If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, let me know and I'll take the Burandt specs out.

Enjoy!
Chris





 
I've done three rides now and I'm so happy with the valving I'd give Andy a sloppy kiss if he was closer to me! :bounce:

Between the 2011 valving and adding DeyCore chambers, the suspension on my '09 Sno Pro actually WORKS!! I'm running the front with a bit more pressure than I used to, and it still soaks up bumps better than it ever did before.

It used to bound from bump to bump without the suspension moving much. Now it just floats over the nasty, with the suspension actually moving to keep the sled running smooth. So nice!!

If I really push it in bigger whoops, and crash the front of the skid into the crest of one, I can get it to bottom, but short of that, it hasn't, even with some jumping.

I'm only about 165lbs, so I will agree with Andy that if you're a heavier or more aggressive rider, his valving is probably the better choice. (It's slightly stiffer than the 2011 valving.)

I can't recommend his services enough if you have an '10 or older sled. Andy will drill out the orifices in your current pistons to meet the 2011 specs, and can supply all the necessary shims for the 2011 valving, all for a very reasonable price.

Chris
 
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How far have most of you guys gone on the Float 1 revalve and upgrade.

Are most of you just going to the Float 2 upgrade and skipping the EVOL chamber add ons for the front shocks?

Anyone added the EVOL chamber to the burandt revalving on the rear skid to comment on how it rode?

Trying to weigh my options right now on how far to upgrade the Floats on my 09 M8
 
I guess you saw what I did, and I'd say that's probably the best bang for the buck. Sounds like deycore discontinued the canisters, but there are other versions that work as well or better, and they're all cheaper than the EVOL chambers IIRC.

Even if you ONLY do the valving, you will not be disappointed. The pre- 2011 valving really sucks unless you're really heavy, or brutally aggressive.
 
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