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fork revalve ?

Will this be a snowbike only bike? What's your budget? Do you think you're going to like to jump a lot?
If swapping back-and-forth in the summer, I would do springs only. It's a pretty simple swap on the yz and just replace fork seals at the same time and you should be good for the season. My bike is snobike specific, but i still just did springs because of my budget. .62 works really well by itself. I'm sure they could be made better with valving though.
If you are going to run the yeti kit then I would talk to Toby Till. Those kits seem a little more touchy in regard to the front end fork set up.

Oh ya, I ordered my springs from the dirt lab in Salt Lake City for about 170 bucks.
 
Springs for sure, I had them custom made by Cannon Racecraft,I forget the exact rate but if memory serves well into the 7's I run what most people run on their snowbike as my dirt set up because I am a pretty big boy. I re-valved mine myself just using some good old dirtbike theory and was really happy with them. More spring in the dirt usually requires less compression and more rebound...that's the direction I went and just tweaked the stacks. When I was all done and the thing was sitting on the garage floor if you pushed on the footpegs or jumped up and down on them it felt pretty balanced where stock rate up front will be a big time diver without some work.
 
this will be a snow bike only on a ts 120 le aro. I am familiar with suspension just not tuning. what im not understanding is why you are putting such heavy springs in. is this being done so you don't have to revalve for dirt and snow. seems like .54 or .56 would be plenty of spring with the proper revalve.
 
I decided to send my forks to toby at RMS. after talking with him he explained to me how a track affects the front of a bike and that's why the heavy springs are needed. he also was able to set me up with all the stuff I need to convert the bike over to snow. for all you new snow bikers I would recommend giving him a call.
 
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