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Fork damage?

Jon Mutiger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
After you took off your Timbersled kit from your front forks this summer, did you inspect the chrome coating on your fork tubes?

Was there any damage? Any sign of bending? Pitting?

Just wondering what might be a solution to the problem.. Do you think wrapping the leg in teflon tape before installing the fork clamps would help?

Jon
 
I saw the same thing on one of my bikes. I decided it was from the clamps twisted on the fork tubes. I noticed it when replacing the spindle after it had been crashed. It did not seem to weaken it in any way. I have not tried the Teflon tape but it should help out. I will try to test it in the future.

Allen
 
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My fork tubes are pitted out as well... Haven't rode enough (or at all) this summer to determine if it's going to ruin the fork seals when the suspension bottoms or not.
 
I'd think maybe some anti-seize compound, coppa-slip would help. The pitting has got to be galvanic in nature.

Jon
 
After my first year of riding, I have the same type of damage. My forks were very clean when I installed them, but it was a little dirty when they came off. Does anyone have a fix for this? Is there a way to fix the chrome? Is there a way to stop it from happening next year?
 
This year, I coated the fork clamps with liquid electrical tape. It's basically a plastic paint that turns into a rubbery barrier when dry. I painted up the clamps, let them dry then installed them. You have to install carefully as the rubber moves kinda easily, but done right I think it should solve the problem as there won't be any corrosion between rubber and chrome.

I'll be taking the clamps off for the first time in about a month or so.. We'll see if I'm right or wrong for sure then.

Jon
 
Why not just a wrap of duck tape on the fork before the clamp? Teflon tape is to prevent damage from objects rubbing, but the clamp should be stationary. Electrical tape or compression tape could be another option.
 
Liquid metal or JB weld :face-icon-small-hap

It will not stick to the Crome tubes but also will not allow slippage as with e tape or grease/copper coat that attracts dirt .

My lower tubes actually have small dents on the inside back side so they need to be replaced anyway.
 
Maybe Timbersled should have a plastic type insert for that clamp ! I'd be pissed if my forks were fu@ked because of corrosion/rubbing etc. Forks are pretty spendy and they should fix that up before too many get damaged ! For the price of these kits they should have a update !
 
Maybe Timbersled should have a plastic type insert for that clamp ! I'd be pissed if my forks were fu@ked because of corrosion/rubbing etc. Forks are pretty spendy and they should fix that up before too many get damaged ! For the price of these kits they should have a update !

X2 on that!! For the price there should be a few things updated.
 
Would a plastic clamp be a solution?
These are used for hydralic pipes.
B250-5_30-f.jpg
 
after a very close look at the Timbersled product there is not much there for the money. I think I am going with a new one I plan to beta test for somone at half the price.
 
Don't underestimate the TS kit. It is expensive but it's worth it in my opinion. I'll find a workaround for the forks next year, but even if I had to buy new forks every year it would still be worth it.
 
Been using MOLYKOTE DX PASTE made by Dow Corning Corp for two years now and not even the slightest chrome defect ,also apply it to the bolts that hold kit to bike frame no problems , made for corrosion areas in aircraft a little expensive but well worth it .
 
This is what you guys need , Boivan has the forks tied up in a pretty tight patend , I do believe , that's why Timbersled has his own . This clamp is like a vice just like the tree clamp and the only thing you'll ever break is the bolt that holds the ski if the threads are on the supporting shaft of the bolt . I figured that out after a couple of bolts till I made my own and relayed it to Simmons . Galvanic reaction is what you might be looking for the cause of the pitting .

IMG_20130423_200137_591.jpg
 
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I suppose there's someone out there that knows how to wreck an anvil .

This one has over 14,000 on the chasis and it's given me more than my fare share of a beating , the steel bushing that the bolt goes threw that holds the ski on is just starting to display a little slop , it's also the only grease zerk on the machine .

The ski does have a minor twist in it from coming out of a creek and casing the bank at an angle . I've tried to beat the molded plate in the ski straight without a press , ended up chalking it down as a personality issue. I also bent the frame so bad at the same time ( 1/4 aluminum frame ) that it twisted the fork clamps in a bind so bad that I had to kick the steering forward and drove out steering with the foot pegs since I couldn't physically turn the bars , that really sucked , I was wiped out . Not a mark on the forks .

That's why I brought this up , been watching the threads and seen a few broken forks with what your set up has .

I've watched it fly over the top of me more than once and just like a bike , pick it up and take off .If they buildt sleds like dirt bikes they'd have something that was worth a sh!t .

There's things that can be shared here , not to p!ss any body off but the Hawk beat these tracks to the snow and there's more relationship between the two than you some people think . You have to give it some credit for it's faults , it is a complete machine not an add on .
 
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