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For those with the 5 flash curse... Something to check!

D

dub

Well-known member
Sorry for the double post but I figured somebody could use this!

Pulled the pipe sensor from the wife's 700 and ran an Ohm test, was around 14.63. I then tried the one from my D8 and it was a flat line! I replaced the pipe sensor and all is good, engine light is off again!!!:face-icon-small-hap

Moral of the story is that you don't have to have the codes cleared at the dealer for the thing to stop flashing, you simply (pun intended) have to find the problem and (I would say fix but...) replace it!

Thanks for the info Eric & Ron!
 
On Digital Wrench codes are listed as either current or historical. Current codes are, of course, still at fault and will flash the CE light. Once a problem is rectified (by either fixing or intermittent fault) the code becomes historical in the ECU and the CE stops flashing.
The code is still there and can be looked up and cleared later but it no longer affects the sled running unless the problem comes back again.
 
I did figure that much, I was just soooo excited that it was running good again. I could tell as soon as It fired that it was running right again.
 
I replaced the temp sensor on my 09 D8 today and it runs excellent again. The five flashes is the temp sensor going bad. I'm not sure what happens when that error code comes up, but it seemed to me that the engine was retarded in some way.
 
Somebody else chimed in the HELP thread and stated that it adds 10% fuel to the engine, I agree it drank 1/2 tank in about 25 miles!
 
Any other alternatives???

I'm not really excited about purchasing a 150$ part. Is there any other alternatives??? I am considering just adjusting down the 10% increase my fuel with my controller and put some black tape over the blinking red light.:face-icon-small-hap
 
If you spent the money on the fuel controler then the 150$ part should be in your budget :face-icon-small-hap

$150 is a lot to swallow for a part that is not for increasing performance but is required by the sled. I'm on my 2nd one now.

Those people having this issue, did it effect your performance?
 
I just replaced my first one (09 Assault) no preformace issues up high, rode for 5 days with the blink....got home to MN low elevations there is a very slight hiccup, but i'm not sure that is from the sensor. As after replacement, if i really try i can find the one very small spot it will hiccup!
 
$150 is a lot to swallow for a part that is not for increasing performance but is required by the sled. I'm on my 2nd one now.

Those people having this issue, did it effect your performance?

My top end richened up a little bit but my mid-range bog is much worse. putting me over the handle bars.
 
I have taken one in each of my 07 700's. I am wondering if there would be a resistor and what ohms it would need to be to make the sled think the pipe temp is where it needs to be that would cost just a few bucks. I am always thinking cheap but that maybe would cause other problems too.
 
Well, I caught the 5 blink madness yesterday on my 08 D7. Does appear that it runs richer and cooler with the issue. In looking for a cheap work around, why could you not run a sled with a working sensor up to temperature, and take ohm readings. Irony is that I'm sure this is nothing more than a standard thermocouple (j,K,or E needs to be defined). Omega.com offers a full assormtnt of these for $34-39!!I think $5 more gets you the micro plug already attached. We just need to figure out which one is the right one.

After further research, although type K and J thermocouples have ratings high enough for EGT's the probes are seemingly all rated to 1200 F. Could this be the flaw? While the thermocouple survives, the internal wiring is frying as I believe EGT's can reach the 1300+ range.
 
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I have taken one in each of my 07 700's. I am wondering if there would be a resistor and what ohms it would need to be to make the sled think the pipe temp is where it needs to be that would cost just a few bucks. I am always thinking cheap but that maybe would cause other problems too.

There was a resistor supplied by SLP with the SLP single in 2008. The purpose was to leave the sled running rich as a safety margin. There were no blink codes when using the resistor. We found that you didn't need it and had better perfomance without. I'd guess that I still have mine somewhere.
There is nothing published about what happens when the pipe sensor gets warm but I was told that the ECU leans the fuel 6% after the sensor gets to temp. Maybe that # has changed with newer fuel maps, but I doubt it.
 
Got the 5 flash on our black 09 TD8 last weekend just after running out of gas. Kept flashing the next day with an occasional bog. Pulled the sensor, cleaned it up with QD electical parts cleaner (had a lot of white residual) and switched it into our white 09 TD8 and the white sled didn't flash any codes. Put a new sensor in the black sled and it still flashed 5 in the shop. Putting the old one back and carrying the new one next ride to see if it clears itself during the ride,

I don't know.................4 Stroke Apex was heavy, but no ghremlins, lol. EW
 
number of flashes

Wasn't there a post on here somewhere that showed 1 flash means this, 2 flashes means that, 3 flashes means....and so on. Or whenever ANY sensor goes bad, it just flashes 5 times, no matter what? If someone has that, it would be helpful.
 
Wasn't there a post on here somewhere that showed 1 flash means this, 2 flashes means that, 3 flashes means....and so on. Or whenever ANY sensor goes bad, it just flashes 5 times, no matter what? If someone has that, it would be helpful.

1 through 8 blinks-the voltage is too high or too low from the respective sensor listed:
1=TPS
2=Engine Temp
3=Intake Air Temp
4=Barometric Pressure
5=Exhaust
6=Detonation
7=Injector Circuit or Fuel Injector
8=Exhaust Solenoid
9=Mag or PTO Coil circuit malfunction
10 or Steady-take it to the dealer to check the P Code for problem (7 possibilities).
 
Got the 5 flash on our black 09 TD8 last weekend just after running out of gas. Kept flashing the next day with an occasional bog. Pulled the sensor, cleaned it up with QD electical parts cleaner (had a lot of white residual) and switched it into our white 09 TD8 and the white sled didn't flash any codes. Put a new sensor in the black sled and it still flashed 5 in the shop. Putting the old one back and carrying the new one next ride to see if it clears itself during the ride,

I don't know.................4 Stroke Apex was heavy, but no ghremlins, lol. EW


Eric, once a trouble code has triggered in the ECM, it takes a full cold-warm up cycle for the code to clear without a digital wrench. So imediately after replacing the sensor, the ECM will still flash the 5 code and will then shut off ONCE it has seen a cold-hot cycle that passes the ECM's parameters from the newly replaced exhaust sensor.

Usually one engine cycle after you replace the sensor and the 5 code flash will go away. Of course I'm suprised you don't already have a Digital Wrench to clear the code.

What is intertesting about this is you cleaned up a sensor that was triggering a code in one sled and after cleaning it, and installing it in another sled, the second sled didn't kick the code...maybe a cleaning will help??
 
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