I have seen generator hook ups that have some sort of breaker box inside the trailer with a throw switch. Can somebody give me the basics of this system? Does this run inline with the stand interior 12v lights or is this an entirely different circuit?
Flourescent light wiring question for my enclosed
- Thread starter BigRed118
- Start date
Different circuit. They most likely would have a breaker box and run plugs and lights off that. Would you could have is a battery charger hooked up to charge up the 12v battery like a RV but if you had a jenny why bother. I'm sure some guys on here could post what they have or what works the nicest. I know I have seen some real nice setups. I would just make sure you use the cold weather ballasts on the florescent lights
It is a different independent system from the 12v lighting. If you ordered a trailer with 110v lighting, typical routing works like this...
1. Exterior "Motor base plug" this is a weather tight female plug that allows you to hook up 110v - 220v ac with whatever plug configuration that is needed for the amount of "stuff" that you are going to run. If all you are running is 2 - 110v light fixtures, a standard 110v female plug is all that is necessary. This plug is mounted on the exterior of the trailer near where you expect to hook up a generator or a "shore cord" to a building or other connection point.
2. Interior disconnect. This is the first stop after the motorbase plug. This may be a standard type "breaker box" or a simple master disconnect breaker. This is a safety feature to prevent overloading the circuit. This also may be 110v or 220v depending on your load potential.
3. Interior Wiring and fixtures. This goes to outlets, switches, lights, AC/units or whatever else you have that you need to power. - Ditto on the cold weather ballast! Otherwise what's the point?
To run this type of system, you have to have a 110v power source such as a house, building, light pole in a parking lot etc... or bring your own generator. I use the small Honda 110v suitcase generators. The one that I have is 1000 watts. More than enough for lights.
You could have a 12v battery charger wired in so that once 110 power is supplied, it automatically starts charging the house battery or the truck battery, but this would be the only "cross-over" between the systems that I can thing of.
On another thought, you could try and run an inverter to try and power some 110v lights, but that will run your 12v truck and or house battery down quick. But I suppose that would be a possibility. I have thought about this in my trailers but you definately would need to run the tow vehicle engine or you'd have a dead battery when you wanted to leave.
1. Exterior "Motor base plug" this is a weather tight female plug that allows you to hook up 110v - 220v ac with whatever plug configuration that is needed for the amount of "stuff" that you are going to run. If all you are running is 2 - 110v light fixtures, a standard 110v female plug is all that is necessary. This plug is mounted on the exterior of the trailer near where you expect to hook up a generator or a "shore cord" to a building or other connection point.
2. Interior disconnect. This is the first stop after the motorbase plug. This may be a standard type "breaker box" or a simple master disconnect breaker. This is a safety feature to prevent overloading the circuit. This also may be 110v or 220v depending on your load potential.
3. Interior Wiring and fixtures. This goes to outlets, switches, lights, AC/units or whatever else you have that you need to power. - Ditto on the cold weather ballast! Otherwise what's the point?
To run this type of system, you have to have a 110v power source such as a house, building, light pole in a parking lot etc... or bring your own generator. I use the small Honda 110v suitcase generators. The one that I have is 1000 watts. More than enough for lights.
You could have a 12v battery charger wired in so that once 110 power is supplied, it automatically starts charging the house battery or the truck battery, but this would be the only "cross-over" between the systems that I can thing of.
On another thought, you could try and run an inverter to try and power some 110v lights, but that will run your 12v truck and or house battery down quick. But I suppose that would be a possibility. I have thought about this in my trailers but you definately would need to run the tow vehicle engine or you'd have a dead battery when you wanted to leave.
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S
Summitstef
Member
I f you are going to go thru with this, Make sure you remove the bulbs out of your fixtues when travelling. Othewise you will hav on e BIG surprise when you get to the staging area. If it was me doing this, I'd go with a small Honda "suitcase" generator. Provides power for the interior lights, heater, stereo, LCD TV, sex lights etc............
I f you are going to go thru with this, Make sure you remove the bulbs out of your fixtues when travelling. Othewise you will hav on e BIG surprise when you get to the staging area. If it was me doing this, I'd go with a small Honda "suitcase" generator. Provides power for the interior lights, heater, stereo, LCD TV, sex lights etc............
Why do you need to remove your bulbs? I have 6 sets of flourecent light in my trailer and drive 700km to ride and have never had a problem with a bulb breaking. Just make sure you mount the lights correctly so they cant move around on the wall or roof.
In my trailer i have both a 110 and 220 circut run through it. I run the 6 sets of lights, spring loaded trouble lights, a 45000 BTU furnace, battery chargers for tools, 2000 watt electric radiant heater, sometimes a shopvac, and also a battery charger to charge the 2 house batterys in the trailer.
Off the 12Volt system i run 10 lights, car stereo with 4 speakers, 3000watt inverter, loading lights and back up lights.
I can run my 3000watt inverter powering the furnace and the flourent lights with all the 12volt accesorys on as well for hours without it draining the batterys.
E
Ex-Member
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Don't think that'd work real well. Inverters don't like inductive loads (Fluoro/CFL lights, motors, etc) but they do fine with resistive loads (Incandescent bulbs, power supplies, TV/DVD players/etc.
Also, yes... assuming 100% efficiency in the inverter, 1 watt at 120V RMS = 10 watts at 12V DC. At 70% efficiency, that value jumps to 13 watts.
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