Flatland 700D overreving 8700rpm with 66 gram weights

[BIGMEATS]

Sled is actually a iqr with a 09 700 CFI-4. Pulling 8700RPM on the MFD and holds there. Gearing is 21/45 spinning a 146 camo extreme. 10-66 with 140-300 primary secondary is 160-240 and 56-42-36 helix. I could add a bunch more weight but how much is it going to take to lower it 500Rpm on this set-up. I would rather go with a helix change so I can keep the quick backshift. The primary and secondary clutchs are clean and in good shape very low mileage on them. Belt clearance is correct. Deflection and alignment also correct. Dealer says all they do is add 66grams to flatland the rmk 700 for this area. 2000ft. Whats your recommendations guys I don't have any heavier weights or steeper helixs everything I have is tss-98 helixs and lighter weights. Would like to try make only one trip to the parts counter. Any help much appreciated.

 

[AKboondocker]

You could change the primary spring to a lighter finishing rate and I think it would lower your max rpm, although Im not a clutching guru and I could be wrong. Just seems like it would work on paper!

 

[MARV1]

Why would you want to be geared so low? Gear it up a bit for starters being on the flats... Steeper helix as well.

 

[theultrarider]

I would start by going to a 21-41 or even 21-39 if you are running flat land and not snox that thing. That is way to low of gearing otherwise. hen go up on the weights if you are happy with the way it shifts out now.

 

[xc6rider]

I guess i'd try more weight, or more helix...

How's your clutch temps, and do you like your current shifting etc..???


Unless you have a ringer, i'd say it needs more helix before the weight. But at the $ rate, why not throw weight at it and see if it can pull it?

 

[BIGMEATS]

I am geared low for 2 reasons. 2.5" paddle track don't need to go 100MPH on this thing this ratio is 2.14 which gives me 83mph at 8200rpm. Track is only recommended for 70mph. I never ride faster then 80 thats all I need and improves clutch temps being geared lower as the belts are running at closer to 1-1 and not slipping the belt as much from my experience. Clutch temps are cool to the touch. We get tons of snow and its almost like backcountry riding I don't do the trail riding thing so don't need to go fast.
Other reason for this combo is with the IQR chaincase being a little longer this set-up gives me perfect chain tension withouth the adjuster I have no chain/tensioner noise when braking or on backshifting (it is still installed just incase your curious) I love not hearing that damn thing. I have a 76-44.46 helix I am going to have to try I know its two steep down low but the longer steeper 44 should help on top as that is all I will be looking at. And can determine what it will do for peak rpm to help make my decision on what parts to buy. The motor did come from Wahl's racing maybe they juiced it up a bit but I wasn't informed of that. If I wanted to bring the Rpm down by 500 using weight how much would you say I need to add go up to 10-70's?

 

[sonday_2]

try 10-68's

 

[Rick!]

A binding primary will overrev also. I've owned somewhere around 7 700 rmk's over the last 4 years and even with 60grams on flatland I've never hit 8700. I could hit 84-8500 on a long straights when it runs up against the gearing. Hit the primary sheaves with magic marker and see if you are actually shifting out on both the drive and the driven. If so, throw 4 grams at it or just drive at 3/4 throttle if you don't want to spend any dough. If it's not shifting out, figure out which clutch has the sacked out bushings, worn weights hitting the spider or other clutching issues. Calling Wahl's wouldn't be a bad idea either - engine history is always a good thing to know.

 

[snoboy]

A binding primary will overrev also. I've owned somewhere around 7 700 rmk's over the last 4 years and even with 60grams on flatland I've never hit 8700. I could hit 84-8500 on a long straights when it runs up against the gearing. Hit the primary sheaves with magic marker and see if you are actually shifting out on both the drive and the driven. If so, throw 4 grams at it or just drive at 3/4 throttle if you don't want to spend any dough. If it's not shifting out, figure out which clutch has the sacked out bushings, worn weights hitting the spider or other clutching issues. Calling Wahl's wouldn't be a bad idea either - engine history is always a good thing to know.

Real good idea! Magic marker to see where the belt is riding, are you getting a 1/1 shift out?

 

[BIGMEATS]

Got it fixed up. Was hitting 1-1 I did do the marker trick always a must when doing any kind of clutching. What I ended up doing was getting a new primary spring. The one I was running thinking it was a 140-300 physically measured 155-360 thus the cause. All these brands and companys making springs its hard to keep track of what spring came from who and matching them up to what they actually are when you got a box full. All my springs are marked now after getting them all checked so I don't have to scratch my head like this again.
Thanks for the help guys.

 

[snoboy]

That'll do it. What spring did you finally install and what rpm did you obtain.

 

[sledneck_03]

i wish! im running 18-43s stock everything with 62s and only getting 6900 out of it! When i bought it it ran 7400 with 62s but had a polaris belt not a ultimax