first sled--just bought a 2004 skidoo 800HO highmark extreme 159"

[Davenjw]

as the title says, I just bought this sled today. it has a goldfinger lefty throttle (which I intend to remove), simmons skis, and hand guards. it was a snowcheck so it has a few other goodies on it.


first of all: the first time I tried to start it when I got home I flipped up the choke and the handle broke off where it is attached. choke now requires vicegrips... where do you find a new upper choke assembly for these things? I found cables, but nothing else....

second: at 1265 miles on the completely stock engine, I've heard I should do rings. question is: go the cheap route and just put new rings in it, or drop more of the money saved (I only paid $3500 for it) and do a full new piston job with dual rings? (I can only find the big john kit, could not find the 'BJ' kit people were talking about)

clutching: i've heard these sleds are rough on belts. is the $200 OEM belt the only option? my buddy said when he had a REV he went through 2 belts a year. this is unacceptable to me at $200 a piece. team clutch it is, but whats the best source on them? I can't find many on ebay, and worst of all I don't know exactly what im looking for.


pipe/can: which first? if im doing full piston kit, it will probably be neither, especially if I go with a team clutch. I'm in college and on unemployment, so things move slowly arounds heres money wise.


last thing: choose one for my sled: Pipe, can, or team clutch.

 

[snowguthrie]

(big john) (bj) same guy. I would leave the stock clutches on and put in a clutch kit that fits your style of riding. and put on a hps can. with the rings I would do what the pocket book will let you. but would at least put on new rings. the origainal ring had a flaking problem.

 

[Davenjw]

thanks!

other were suggesting rktek kits----
I don't like the RKtek website. they sound gimmiky....

 

[Zone28M7]

Two belts a year really isn't that much at all. I've seen guys who have sleds that eat a belt every 3-4 rides or less. Obviously they have sled issues but two belts over the course of a season is pretty normal.

I would say big John kit is worth it and if you can muster up some extra ceesh then get hps can or Aaen pipe and can.




---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.415013,-104.928971
Need snow now!
Ski Doo Rev 800 Mod
Galleygraphics.com

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

clutching: i've heard these sleds are rough on belts. is the $200 OEM belt the only option? my buddy said when he had a REV he went through 2 belts a year. this is unacceptable to me at $200 a piece. team clutch it is, but whats the best source on them? I can't find many on ebay, and worst of all I don't know exactly what im looking for.

pipe/can: which first? if im doing full piston kit, it will probably be neither, especially if I go with a team clutch. I'm in college and on unemployment, so things move slowly arounds heres money wise.


last thing: choose one for my sled: Pipe, can, or team clutch.

Whoa...before you go spending $$$ on another secondary clutch, you should spend a little time/effort/energy checking out your sled and its fitness first.

Pistons - Big John kit is a great choice. I have a lot of customers who use his product and point customers to him because of the good niche he is in.
If he also has a trail torquer kit for that engine, well I gotta say from my own first hand experience they are dynamite. We have run his TTQR on the dyno and have measured the torque increase in 800's from 5300 to 7750 rpms and that's just worth it in!

Belts blow due to; 1) misalignment, 2)clutch bushing fitness, 3)incorrect calibration (fluctuating rpms) and 3)time in seconds spent at full throttle(overheating)

Go through your engine and do a HOT vs. cold compression, that will give you an indication of what kind of fitness your engine is in.

Check the engine mounts? Are they hard, broken, loose?
Check the clutch alignment.
What are the 4 bushings like for fitness through both clutches?
What belt deflection is being used, is it correct?
Does your calibration provide the rated rpms of 7850 (8000 on tach)? yes or no?
Correct flyweight and clicker position (yes or no)

Right out of the chute, I have some advice for the novice. Dont have faith that slapping on the flavour-of-the-week secondary clutch is going to solve problems.
Bind yourself first to learning about the fitness of your system and have the clutch tools to do so and be able to have the confidence of mind to consider yes or no to another proposition advanced regarding clutching. You buy a secondary and its worn, now what? You buy a secondary and it has the wrong helix now what? wrong spring?..now what? $$$ + $$ + $ = $$$$$ still blows belts. hmm...

I would say you would be pleasantly surprised at how a well fit stock clutch 04/800 goes with some suspension tuning and a good track.

Davenjw writes)I'm in college and on unemployment, so things move slowly around here money wise.
Joe) I did vibration analysis in our paper mill for 10 years. Preventative maintenance turned our mill 180 from closing to production records of full tilt tons/day. It was because we spent the time to evaluate each unit's condition and only spend the money on exactly what was needed to be changed and thus continue to efficiently-wear-out-parts that had life left in them.

You have the tools and analyze what you have regarding overall fitness and you will be able to evaluate future changes in level of engine/clutch performance and go from there. Now you have just made yourself so much more valuable and all you had to do was a little bit of studying and measuring. You will also gain the ability to be able to determine when the parts come near or at their wear limit and can change them out so you get the biggest bang for the dollar without causing damage to the rest of the system and your wallet.

Davenjw writes)he went through 2 belts a year. this is unacceptable to me at $200 a piece
Joe) then read my belt commentaries and learn about the temperature limits and how you can tell w/out using a heat gun by looking at the color of the side of the belt after a run.

 

[Davenjw]

thats a lot to take in! thank you very much for taking the time to write that... although i've road sleds, I've never owned/maintained anything with the belt clutch system so that will be an experience.

and um honestly? I don't know how to check most of the things you just said to check (clutch wise). is there a guide around?

edit: oops didnt see your link at first

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

thats a lot to take in!
---make time to read and soak er' all up.

thank you very much for taking the time to write that...
---a lot of, is cut n paste from older posts and even with crusty scarred up hands, I can still type 50 words/no errors. heh heh

I've never owned/maintained anything with the belt clutch system so that will be an experience.
---getting hands dirty to check your system out is a "fun" experience.

and um honestly? I don't know how to check most of the things you just said to check (clutch wise). is there a guide around?
---yes follow the rabbit trail of links to illustrations and videos....

edit: oops didnt see your link at first

....and the rabbit hole gets deeper and deeper....

 

[dooxtreme]

Properly set up you can get 800 to 1000 miles on 1 belt. I have an 04 with a 159 and I rode the whole season of backcountry, deep powder, hill climbing fun and still on the same belt. I ride it hard. But I have a clutch kit and cooling vents to help. Plus I run a custom Felker belt. But even without the custom belt I could do a whole season on one belt. I put a new top in at 2500 miles and the pistons and rings where still in decent shape but was glad I did the pistons then. The biggest thing in clutch maintance. I end up rebuilding the clutch every other year. Mostly replacing worn bushings and ramps. Doing this keeps the sled running in tip top shape. I think you will enjoy you sled very much. I have!

 

[Davenjw]

Properly set up you can get 800 to 1000 miles on 1 belt. I have an 04 with a 159 and I rode the whole season of backcountry, deep powder, hill climbing fun and still on the same belt. I ride it hard. But I have a clutch kit and cooling vents to help. Plus I run a custom Felker belt. But even without the custom belt I could do a whole season on one belt. I put a new top in at 2500 miles and the pistons and rings where still in decent shape but was glad I did the pistons then. The biggest thing in clutch maintance. I end up rebuilding the clutch every other year. Mostly replacing worn bushings and ramps. Doing this keeps the sled running in tip top shape. I think you will enjoy you sled very much. I have!

thank you! you just gave me some hope I suppose, I found some belts with good ratings in the $85-$100 range I will try If i have any issues. for now I decided to just ride it and see how things go. I did, however, order a top end kit from BJ. everything is currently tore down, the cylinders are honed, and I'm ready to put things back together as soon as parts show up.


the intake boots were toast. on spot on each boot I could push from the back side and see my finger on the outside.... explains the high idle, and most likely the topend that looks like it got hot.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

You can try the cheaper belts... many have ( even myself ) even after being told to stay with the BRP belts.

They give the most consistant performance from start to finish. Honestly I've always been pleased with the belt life on the 800's.

 

[BackCountryBob]

I have a 04 High Mark X 151, spun a ring at 3,450 miles--did pistons/rings/carb boots/RKT head. 2nd year, D^J clutch kit, SLP cool vents, stock ceramic pipe and lots of weight saving stuff. I had 2 different cans but went back to stock and the sled had better mid-range. Make sure the plastic belt guard is off--heat is a major problem with the 800. I still have the ceramic coated SLP can $115, Denver.

At your mileage you are due a clutch rebuild and balance. I have never blown a belt--3,860 miles on 2 belts, so far.

BCB

 

[Davenjw]

Your 10 hours late! Darnit! Bought a new slp can on eBay for 160 shipped.

 

[dooxtreme]

thank you! you just gave me some hope I suppose, I found some belts with good ratings in the $85-$100 range I will try If i have any issues. for now I decided to just ride it and see how things go. I did, however, order a top end kit from BJ. everything is currently tore down, the cylinders are honed, and I'm ready to put things back together as soon as parts show up.


the intake boots were toast. on spot on each boot I could push from the back side and see my finger on the outside.... explains the high idle, and most likely the topend that looks like it got hot.

The custom belt was $130 ish and the belt isn't near as sensitive to heat as the BRP belts and held rpms very well during long pulls or multiple pulls in a short period of time. Felkers in Loveland Colorado sells them. He just had them made starting last year and is having great responses from users. I would recommend trying one. Don't forget with any belt u buy, proper break in will extend belt life.

 

[Ckale]

I would do the whole piston job and put in dual ringers.

Out of the three things you stated, do clutching for sure.

I love my Team clutch, stays wayyy cooler than stock and have had zero belt problems. And i do a lot of steep and deep, breaking trail, etc...

 

[Davenjw]

top end is installed, dual ringers from BJ. have not touched anything else, I figure I need to ride it a bit to appreciate any other changes runs mint!

 

[DQ]

Late to post here, but good to see you replaced your stock pistons. I replaced my rings only on my 04' as a preventative measure, and a few hundred miles later a piston broke, taking out the cylinder. Expensive lesson for me...