First ride on 06 summit x, check engine, coolant everywhere

[Cheynespub]

Shop doesnt know, first fix failed, second? who knows.....

I was wondering if any knows what might have caused my "new to me" sled to start leaking coolant and flashing a check engine light. It has 1100 miles and the SLP power package. I was riding at about 7000 feet and noticed the light. Looks like coolant was leaking from the top of the head or out of a head bolt. Spark plugs looked good with no water on them and it was running fine. I checked the heads for tightness, let it cool down, topped of the coolant, and limped it back to the truck at 25. I took it to the shop but I was hoping that someone else might know of common coolant leakage problems and why that would trigger a check engine. I have had it out one other time for a half hour before with no problems. I just changed the chain case oil if that would make any difference.

Thanks for the help.

 

[milehighassassin]

Check the gaskets on the head. There are two on each jug.

CEL was probably caused because of coolant going into the cylinder and causing ignition problems.

 

[Cheynespub]

Thanks for the reply. The plugs looked pretty good, ie. no water spots. After it cooled off I restarted and got an aray of lights and beeps then normal as I limped it home 15 miles. makes me nervous, Do i need to run race fuel with the slp power pack on the 06 summit X?

I hate not knowing if I can hold it open or not.

thanks for the help

c

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

where exactly is the coolant coming from???

i know on the 600 there are two head bolts that are shorter and they almost thread all the way into the other ones, but they will just sit and leak coolant.

as for race fuel, what is the compression ratio on the head in the thing??

 

[Stuck]

If it is just the slp kit you will be just fine with premium as long as you are riding in the elevations compatible with the head. As for the head bolts, they are all the same length on the 800. Do not over tighten them! They break easy! Check the head o rings. I had a cylinder renicked and there was some stuff left on the threads. When I put the head on and torqued it down it leaked. You can either chase the threads on the cylinder or just throw a brass washer in there and it will seal ok.

 

[Cheynespub]

Not sure on the compresion ratio. I just bought it this year used. All I know is that its an SLP power package that was originally setup for 6000 feet. At least thats what I was told.

There was coolant all over the front of the motor but it was up as high as the front right head bolt as you sit on the sled.

Should I call the dealer and make sure to look for the longer head bolts? Or maybee SLP?

thanks

 

[Stuck]

I would just pull the head off and look at the o-rings and look at all of the head bolts and make sure they are all the same length. Maybe just replace the o-rings weather they look good or not. It couldnt hurt. If the head bolts arent seating right they will leak. These bolts can stretch. A brass washer will fix it. But you can replace all of the head bolts too if you want.

 

[357454]

Before you start tearing things apart check the thermostat housing bolts, the inlet on the bottom of the head and all the clamps on the cooling hoses.Chances are one of the hoses is loose.

 

[Cheynespub]

I dropped it off at the shop because I have to work all week and want it this weekend. However, I want to call in and make sure they are not pulling the engine out if its something simple. I thought about the thermostat being stuck but it was leaking from the front of the head. I still had coolant. If it was a leaking fitting why would i get a check engine light? What does the knock light look like?

I figure its one of the head bolts or the o-ring on the head. But,....why would I get a check engine if there was no coolant on the plugs and I had no running issues?

thanks guys.

 

[Cheynespub]

Its also got a 19 tooth top gear in the chaincase. Do people like this? I like to go fast too and I dont think I will be getting it up past 90 on the flats with this gearing. Its not deap enough to go off trail yet but I assume thats were the difference will be.

If you guys dont have any more ideas I will call the shop tomorrow and see were they are getting with it.

Does anyone know if the new Bend SKIDOO dealer has a good servie guy. The tech I talked said he was new to sleds......THATS A CONFIDENSE BUILDER. I had flippin nightmares

 

[pyxle]

2006 Summit X

I have had a couple of sleds through the shop that will set off the knock sensor when a two-piece billet head is installed. I have found that placing a copper washer (crush washer) under the knock sensor and using the proper amount of torque ( I believe it's 13 ft/lbs?) and apply some Loctite 5910 to the copper washer and it will quiet the knock sensor down.

As far as the coolant leak, check the easy stuff first, but if coolant is leaking from the head bolts, apply some loctite 518 (the red stuff that smells like candy) around the bottom of the head bolt's flange (not the threads, under the head) and that should seal them to the head.

Hope this helps...

 

[Cheynespub]

If the dealer doesnt find anything I may grab it from the shop and do this to fix the prob

 

[Cheynespub]

Back from shop update

It turns out the the head bolts were loose. I put a set of pliers on the bolt that was leaking and didnt see any movement. However, Rex in Bend said that they were all equally loose and he torqued them and did a coolant leak test that passed.

Then I asked what codes it threw from the check engine and he said that he didnt know it threw a code. So he plugged it in and found a laundry list of problems.

Rave valve ground or short
Over rev
Over temp
Knock sensor
starter short or ground
mismatch key
..

and another couple that I cant remember.

What should it be revving to? The snow is really light so this slp power package and gearing might not be getting the resistance its used to. I think I was hitting 84-8500.

Thanks for the help

 

[SnowSnob]

You should be hitting 7800-8100 depending on how far off your tack is...and most stock tacks are off.
The 800R motors rev to 8300-8500
If you don't have the allen screw pin weights get them and add more weight.

 

[Teth-Air]

I was wondering if any knows what might have caused my "new to me" sled to start leaking coolant and flashing a check engine light. It has 1100 miles and the SLP power package. I was riding at about 7000 feet and noticed the light. Looks like coolant was leaking from the top of the head or out of a head bolt. Spark plugs looked good with no water on them and it was running fine. I checked the heads for tightness, let it cool down, topped of the coolant, and limped it back to the truck at 25. I took it to the shop but I was hoping that someone else might know of common coolant leakage problems and why that would trigger a check engine. I have had it out one other time for a half hour before with no problems. I just changed the chain case oil if that would make any difference.

Thanks for the help.

Same happened to me with the head twice. It is the upper coolant connection (looks like thermostat housing). The bolts backed off twice and they are pretty small so it's scary to overtighten. I doubled up on the amount of thread locker and finally it's good.

 

[SHERMAN]

My 06 summit x with slp porting and rk tech head really liked 8100- 8200 tops. Tried lower rpm and just didn't pull as hard. If leak continues I would really take a second close look around thermostat housing and hoses. And maybe it just happened to me but I had a leaky bolt on the head after SLP porting and it turned out to be bolt would torque out right but there were cuttings from porting in the bottom of the threads. Probably not your case but food for thought any how.

 

[Cheynespub]

I am hoping that all the check engine lights were historical and the rave valve short was due to coolant on the rave valve. It had plenty of coolant left when I caught it so I hope that over heating is not the issue. Should I just move my clicker position if my RPM's are too high? Also, the nock sensor really bothers me. I dont want to loose a crank or ruin a jug with a top end melt down.

I also find it hard to tell what RPM I am pulling until I get into the deap because your haulin *** down the trail trying to look down...

How are the allen head pin weights to install?

thanks for the help

 

[Cheynespub]

1st ride after shop visit

After clearing all the check engine codes and re-torquing the head I went out for a test ride today. I warmed it up and put about 4 miles on it before I got another check engine light. I had coolant starting to well up around the front right bolt again.

Took it back to the shop, back on the computer. Check engine light was for the knock sensor. It was revving up to 8500 RPM. Shop recomended taking the clickers from number 4 to number 3. I ran it up the road by the shop on icy surface and opened it up. Sled still hit 8500 RPM with the lack of resistance.

Can someone tell me what O-rings or gaskets I need to fix the top end leak with the SLP performance package? I hope its just the stock ones.

Dealer thinks that the original over temp light was due to coolant escaping the water jacket with the loose head bolts.

I also had another strange warning. I started it up after sitting for 3 minutes and got a strange reading. I showed a check engine light, water temp light, battery light, and the dispaly had two brackets facing each other on the right side and the left had a dot flashing in different spots in a circular motion.

Any Ideas on how to eleviate these problems. I also need to know what gasket kit to order for the top end. I have a fealing that during the first initial major leak from over rev and detonation I may have damage one of the water jacket o-rings. They think that the head as a gasket on it but I was hoping you guys would know what I need to gaurantee a fix for the top end leak.

also, do I need to turn the clickers down more to ensure that I am not getting over 8100?

Thanks guys, there is more knowledge here than anywhere else.

 

[Cheynespub]

any help? i need to get this fixed for a trip