First ride… no good

[sno*jet]

my know it all riding associate has a lynx re. youre welcome t ride with us anytime and try it but we ride off 903 usually not early. the power of those is amazing, but i couldnt tech ride it well jumping from mine. he does great, young ****er, he hates the skis tho. those sleds downhill well also, you might think who cares about down hill but really all these sleds uphill so well now, we are dropping into stuff we dont know, down hill manuvers are important as up hill. we do steep trees pretty much exclusively when its just he and I. oh, goridedoo, i meant to ask if youve pulled the weights and threw on a gram scale yet to see how off they are. Also make sure track nubs arent coming into contact with anti-stab wheels. track alignment procedure always focusses on rear wheels and people never check whats goin on up front.

 

[turboless terry]

my know it all riding associate has a lynx re. youre welcome t ride with us anytime and try it but we ride off 903 usually not early. the power of those is amazing, but i couldnt tech ride it well jumping from mine. he does great, young ****er, he hates the skis tho. those sleds downhill well also, you might think who cares about down hill but really all these sleds uphill so well now, we are dropping into stuff we dont know, down hill manuvers are important as up hill. we do steep trees pretty much exclusively when its just he and I.

Tell him to get slydog skis. Night and day better. Wish we had these sleds when i was 20 years younger

 

[sno*jet]

^you cant tell this guy anything. thats why i said know it all lol. think he was talkin bout just getting some doo skis for the price

 

[turboless terry]

^you cant tell this guy anything. thats why i said know it all lol. think he was talkin bout just getting some doo skis for the price

Doo skis suck. Hate the insanely deep keel. Bottom of lynx ski to bottom of wear rod is 2 5/8. 8 inches wide at front and taper to 7 3/8 clear to back. Slydogs taper to about 4 inches at back. Sidehills great now. Ski doesn't fight you when countersteering. Maybe use reverse psychology and tell him Slydog skis suck.

 

[goridedoo]

my know it all riding associate has a lynx re. youre welcome t ride with us anytime and try it but we ride off 903 usually not early. the power of those is amazing, but i couldnt tech ride it well jumping from mine. he does great, young ****er, he hates the skis tho. those sleds downhill well also, you might think who cares about down hill but really all these sleds uphill so well now, we are dropping into stuff we dont know, down hill manuvers are important as up hill. we do steep trees pretty much exclusively when its just he and I. oh, goridedoo, i meant to ask if youve pulled the weights and threw on a gram scale yet to see how off they are. Also make sure track nubs arent coming into contact with anti-stab wheels. track alignment procedure always focusses on rear wheels and people never check whats goin on up front.

Haven’t pulled the weights or anything, today was my first day and I’m far from home. I’m gonna ride the Doo a couple days and investigate when I get home. One of those deals where you don’t wanna be wrenching while everyone else is riding.

Nubs are clear of the anti stabs, but real close to one of the idlers on the rear arm. They don’t appear to be hoping up on the idler though. Cannot see any damage to nubs, track windows, or idlers.

Anyone know if the center to center being off on the clutches could cause horrible vibration? I want to re-iterate that its extremely bad.

 

[sno*jet]

Doo skis suck. Hate the insanely deep keel. Bottom of lynx ski to bottom of wear rod is 2 5/8. 8 inches wide at front and taper to 7 3/8 clear to back. Slydogs taper to about 4 inches at back. Sidehills great now. Ski doesn't fight you when countersteering. Maybe use reverse psychology and tell him Slydog skis suck.

ok, but youd better not be running stock cat skis on your alpha talkin bout heavy steering then i told him why not grippers but that was my idea so no bueno lol

 

[Teej83]

Maybe I missed it, but did you toss the new track on prior to riding it? Just trying to narrow variables. To me, by no means expert at all, but if it’s all of a sudden got a new crazy vibration and the belt gets toasted asap, it seems like something is hanging with the track putting additional load on the clutching. But again, that would just be my guess if everything worked fine prior to the addition

 

[Teej83]

I have a booster and a doo turbo r… bought the doo first, didn’t like the handling, bought a poo.

Rode a Lynx for about 2 minutes today. Doo powerplant with predictable handling. Will ride more tomorrow. I was really impressed. All the good things that doo does with most of the handling quirks solved. Try to get a ride on one sometime.

They do ride really nice. Meadow blasted one and had a ton of fun. Would have liked to ride it in technical trees. Only skidoo I’ve been on where I could live with the handling. Doesn’t want to bounce to flat or force you to saw the bars like it’s stablemates. Still feels like it has power steering. Neat but not precise

Definitely does not get up on top of snow the same though

 

[goridedoo]

Maybe I missed it, but did you toss the new track on prior to riding it? Just trying to narrow variables. To me, by no means expert at all, but if it’s all of a sudden got a new crazy vibration and the belt gets toasted asap, it seems like something is hanging with the track putting additional load on the clutching. But again, that would just be my guess if everything worked fine prior to the addition

Sadly the track went on brand new, only backed the sled out of a pickup with the 2.75, and swapped it.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Sadly the track went on brand new, only backed the sled out of a pickup with the 2.75, and swapped it.

My 154 300 lx has very little vibration fwiw.

I wonder if the 165 is molded poorly?

Blown belt makes me think flat spots on secondary rollers. (Bog also)

Something is definitely wrong.

 

[Frankthetank79]

Looking for some help here. Just picked up a new 23 Boost 165 Pro.

I installed a cut down 300lx. Factory drivers. I have a terrible, and I mean terrible vibration mostly felt in the feet from 4000-7000ish rpm… gets better beyond that but still noticeable. I can not see anything rubbing. Tracks running awfully straight. I see the windows on the 300lx are awfully narrow, the drivers fill the windows, but look to be tracking fine within the windows. Tried tight and loose, no noticeable change. Quickdrive looks fine. I’ve had 3” tracks that vibrate a little, but this extremely bad.

Next issue… was having a bog when loading the motor climbing. Would drop to 5k ish rpm and not come out of it till I let completely off the throttle. No codes. Revs were like 8700 at 9500’… factory high altitude clutching. Seems excessive. Maybe part of the bog?

Also blew a belt at 14 miles. HOT clutches. Look to be running smooth, no excessive “wobble”.

Any insight? Brand new sled, probably the worst 20 miles I’ve put on a sled. Have changed lots of tracks, no issues.

First thing I assume I need is a couple more grams in the primary.

Well you were right the dOo hAnDlEs nOtHiNg LiKe tHe PoLaRiS lol….good luck hope the sled works out for ya.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ken65]

Looking for some help here. Just picked up a new 23 Boost 165 Pro.

I installed a cut down 300lx. Factory drivers. I have a terrible, and I mean terrible vibration mostly felt in the feet from 4000-7000ish rpm… gets better beyond that but still noticeable. I can not see anything rubbing. Tracks running awfully straight. I see the windows on the 300lx are awfully narrow, the drivers fill the windows, but look to be tracking fine within the windows. Tried tight and loose, no noticeable change. Quickdrive looks fine. I’ve had 3” tracks that vibrate a little, but this extremely bad.

Next issue… was having a bog when loading the motor climbing. Would drop to 5k ish rpm and not come out of it till I let completely off the throttle. No codes. Revs were like 8700 at 9500’… factory high altitude clutching. Seems excessive. Maybe part of the bog?

Also blew a belt at 14 miles. HOT clutches. Look to be running smooth, no excessive “wobble”.

Any insight? Brand new sled, probably the worst 20 miles I’ve put on a sled. Have changed lots of tracks, no issues.

First thing I assume I need is a couple more grams in the primary.

What do you mean by a "cut down" 300lx?

 

[gopher-it!]

Looking for some help here. Just picked up a new 23 Boost 165 Pro.

I installed a cut down 300lx. Factory drivers. I have a terrible, and I mean terrible vibration mostly felt in the feet from 4000-7000ish rpm… gets better beyond that but still noticeable. I can not see anything rubbing. Tracks running awfully straight. I see the windows on the 300lx are awfully narrow, the drivers fill the windows, but look to be tracking fine within the windows. Tried tight and loose, no noticeable change. Quickdrive looks fine. I’ve had 3” tracks that vibrate a little, but this extremely bad.

Next issue… was having a bog when loading the motor climbing. Would drop to 5k ish rpm and not come out of it till I let completely off the throttle. No codes. Revs were like 8700 at 9500’… factory high altitude clutching. Seems excessive. Maybe part of the bog?

Also blew a belt at 14 miles. HOT clutches. Look to be running smooth, no excessive “wobble”.

Any insight? Brand new sled, probably the worst 20 miles I’ve put on a sled. Have changed lots of tracks, no issues.

First thing I assume I need is a couple more grams in the primary.

Installed 3 inch 165 Lynx track on 2022 Matryx. Horrible noise and vibration , took muti tool and opened up all driver windows to 1 3/8 inches .
Problem solved.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

What do you mean by a "cut down" 300lx?

Width.

The 300LX is manufactured at 16” wide.

(narrow rods)

 

[Jaynelson]

With the high RPM, the bog could easily be over-rev and/or I believe there's a limiter that will kick in if it sees the rate of RPM gain increasing too quickly. The belt blowing at that mileage is extremely non-typical. Might be worth a really good cruise through the belly pan to see if the belt/clutches ate any of the loose parts that have ate some of the QD belts.

 

[canuck1]

Looking for some help here. Just picked up a new 23 Boost 165 Pro.

I installed a cut down 300lx. Factory drivers. I have a terrible, and I mean terrible vibration mostly felt in the feet from 4000-7000ish rpm… gets better beyond that but still noticeable. I can not see anything rubbing. Tracks running awfully straight. I see the windows on the 300lx are awfully narrow, the drivers fill the windows, but look to be tracking fine within the windows. Tried tight and loose, no noticeable change. Quickdrive looks fine. I’ve had 3” tracks that vibrate a little, but this extremely bad.

Next issue… was having a bog when loading the motor climbing. Would drop to 5k ish rpm and not come out of it till I let completely off the throttle. No codes. Revs were like 8700 at 9500’… factory high altitude clutching. Seems excessive. Maybe part of the bog?

Also blew a belt at 14 miles. HOT clutches. Look to be running smooth, no excessive “wobble”.

Any insight? Brand new sled, probably the worst 20 miles I’ve put on a sled. Have changed lots of tracks, no issues.

First thing I assume I need is a couple more grams in the primary.

What track was stock on your boost. 2.75 or 3”

 

[Jeffy Mac]

Looking for some help here. Just picked up a new 23 Boost 165 Pro.

I installed a cut down 300lx. Factory drivers. I have a terrible, and I mean terrible vibration mostly felt in the feet from 4000-7000ish rpm… gets better beyond that but still noticeable. I can not see anything rubbing. Tracks running awfully straight. I see the windows on the 300lx are awfully narrow, the drivers fill the windows, but look to be tracking fine within the windows. Tried tight and loose, no noticeable change. Quickdrive looks fine. I’ve had 3” tracks that vibrate a little, but this extremely bad.

Next issue… was having a bog when loading the motor climbing. Would drop to 5k ish rpm and not come out of it till I let completely off the throttle. No codes. Revs were like 8700 at 9500’… factory high altitude clutching. Seems excessive. Maybe part of the bog?

Also blew a belt at 14 miles. HOT clutches. Look to be running smooth, no excessive “wobble”.

Any insight? Brand new sled, probably the worst 20 miles I’ve put on a sled. Have changed lots of tracks, no issues.

First thing I assume I need is a couple more grams in the primary.

Quick fix……put all back to stock and ducking pin it!!!!

 

[TRS]

I have heard some of the 300s had timing issues.
Remove your QD belt and roll your track by hand, looking for the bind.

 

[goridedoo]

Had a chance to hang the sled up and look things over. I cannot see anything making any contact within the tunnel or in the skid. Track seems to rotate FINE. Its not extremely smooth, but I would say it seems acceptable.

Pulled the QD to spin the track, that all looks good.

I think my vibration has to be in the clutches. Currently working on getting an alignment bar.

I see some paint missing in 2 spots on the primary spring, and looks like it maybe a rubs a bit on the spider… is this normal? Thats all I see that looks potentially out of the ordinary. I have not pulled the secondary to inspect the rollers/helix yet.

 

[goforbroke]

both springs I have used in my primary have 2 wear/rub spots also, so I think it is normal.