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FC350 RAW 120 + TSS - Advice for a rookie

Just picked up a TS kit for my 3 fiddy. I understand i will be down on power but I weigh 150 lbs so hopefully that helps some... Just looking for some input on necessary mods so that I dont blow up my bike (again) 1st time was in the sand, long story. Any input is greatly appreciated. Riding in Cle Elum, WA area mostly. Do i need a thermobob? Running engine ice gycol coolant
 
Just picked up a TS kit for my 3 fiddy. I understand i will be down on power but I weigh 150 lbs so hopefully that helps some... Just looking for some input on necessary mods so that I dont blow up my bike (again) 1st time was in the sand, long story. Any input is greatly appreciated. Riding in Cle Elum, WA area mostly. Do i need a thermobob? Running engine ice gycol coolant

First off you will be fine on the 350 you have to rev it out a bit but with your weight you will be fine. The chances of you blowing the bike up are a little better than a sand track. Your bike has an advanced enough ecu to detect the temperature change where you do not need a thermobob... do you have the TSS intake for you kit if you have that, go put some 5w-40 moterex oil in your bike and run it.
 
Just picked up a TS kit for my 3 fiddy. I understand i will be down on power but I weigh 150 lbs so hopefully that helps some... Just looking for some input on necessary mods so that I dont blow up my bike (again) 1st time was in the sand, long story. Any input is greatly appreciated. Riding in Cle Elum, WA area mostly. Do i need a thermobob? Running engine ice gycol coolant

oops just saw you said FC350 so same as the KTM SX model

What year is your 350?

I don't own a TSS but I do own two, wait one 350. They are stout motors, I have 250 hard hours on my 14, all stock motor never changed anything but oil, Valves are still in spec. My 2017 I put 80 hours on it, only reason I got rid of it was it had good value in it and I wanted my street legal 501. Awesome bikes and they have great power, at higher revs they have more power then most 450s and lets be honest on a snow bike you spend more time in the upper rpms then at low rpms.


bike mods:
air intake: looks like you got a pod in the kit already but you could lean out your bike with pod. you might have to adjust your TPS to richen the bike once you add the pod.

drop the front sprocket down to 13 tooth if you haven't already

depending on model year a handle bar map switch will come in handy, if your bike doesn't have one. the 14 to 16 models had multiple maps loaded in the ecu but no switch to move between them.

radiator guards/protectors are highly recommended. with the rad guards you will need to block the air flow to the rads when your running temps are getting too cold 170f or lower. So most guys just cut some plastic that they can slide in and out of their rad guards to block the air flow

a engine temp guage is also recommended so you will know when to block air and when not to.

I definietly think that bike needs a thermobob, keeping your bike warm is going to be hard on some cold snowy days without it. I ride my 350 in the winter time on snow (with normal tires) and I could use a thermobob for it
 
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The bike is a 2015 FC350. Good to know on gearing down I asked the dealership I'm buying it from and they had no input, at least for my bike. I plan on buying the fan kit which has a temp gauge in it so I will see what temps I'm running. I've rode a lot in freezing Temps and haven't noticed a change in how the bike feels. I guess it could be the snow that makes it run cold?
 
The bike is a 2015 FC350. Good to know on gearing down I asked the dealership I'm buying it from and they had no input, at least for my bike. I plan on buying the fan kit which has a temp gauge in it so I will see what temps I'm running. I've rode a lot in freezing Temps and haven't noticed a change in how the bike feels. I guess it could be the snow that makes it run cold?

Umm ya. Its the snow not the temps that make your bike run cold. You dont need a thermobob. The avid thermostat works just as well?If you don’t run either (or an engine jacket) then you should probably change your oil pretty often...say... every tank when it’s warm, every half tank when your in blower powder.
Do the stuff to make your bike run well and always, always, keep an eye on that temperature guage (the one that plugs into the thermostat). Go ahead and get the fan. It’s just as hard to keep your bike cool sometimes as it was to keep it hot ten minutes previous.

Read, read, read. It’s all here in this forum. That 350 will do awesome. Have a good safe winter.
 
Umm ya. Its the snow not the temps that make your bike run cold. You dont need a thermobob. The avid thermostat works just as well?If you don’t run either (or an engine jacket) then you should probably change your oil pretty often...say... every tank when it’s warm, every half tank when your in blower powder.
Do the stuff to make your bike run well and always, always, keep an eye on that temperature guage (the one that plugs into the thermostat). Go ahead and get the fan. It’s just as hard to keep your bike cool sometimes as it was to keep it hot ten minutes previous.

Read, read, read. It’s all here in this forum. That 350 will do awesome. Have a good safe winter.

I have the factory thermostat on my 501 and a temperature guage. On the trail the temps range from 130 to 160, then once I would get out on a wide open meadow they have dropped to as low as 97. What's interesting I never noticed anything in the bike, like lack of power or rough sounding. Adding the air blocks to the rads helped immensely. I could get the temps in the 185 to 195 range with ease until the louvers fully frooze up at which point I had to stop knock all the ice out and it was back to normal. So thermostat works good but won't do the job all on its own.
 
I have the factory thermostat on my 501 and a temperature guage. On the trail the temps range from 130 to 160, then once I would get out on a wide open meadow they have dropped to as low as 97. What's interesting I never noticed anything in the bike, like lack of power or rough sounding. Adding the air blocks to the rads helped immensely. I could get the temps in the 185 to 195 range with ease until the louvers fully frooze up at which point I had to stop knock all the ice out and it was back to normal. So thermostat works good but won't do the job all on its own.

Agreed. Thermostat is just a start. On my bike i use a combination of thermostat, engine jacket, radiator covers, foam around my engine, and a shield on the back of my engine to stop snow from hitting it. I am constantly adjusting one thing or another depending on conditions. Usually i can make a big enough adjustment with just engine jacket and add/remove one or both radiator covers to get temps where i want them. I also run the PR2 which doesn’t allow the bike to overfuel. I dont know for sure if the ktm/huskys have the same problem with overfueling as bad as other bikes but i imagine they do. Also dont know if the OP’s 350 has a factory thermostat or not. If so he could probably get away with engine jacket, radiator covers, and a temp guage.
 
The ECU can detect temperature. When you start any fuel injected ktm you should hit the button and let it sit for 1:30 to let the engine figure out where it is at, similar to fuel injection at high elevation. it adjusts maps and ignition timing to compensate.


Even the motocross models without the fan kit? the FC models are stripped down motocrossers
 
Yes, this would apply to all fuel injected KTM sx-'fs xc-f's and husky FC's the FE and the EXC are similar in being more of a crossover and come with a fan and a thermostat and is basically a different bike but the concept still applies that you don't need to screw with that setup, they work pretty much the same.
 
The ecu being able to detect the air temp and the coolant temp (engine temp) in the bike are not the same thing. My yamaha runs just fine when the engine temp is only 100 degrees. Doesn’t mean it’s good for the engine to be doing that.
 
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