Extremely hard to pull over when cold

[Quicksand]

2012 Pro 800, never had an issue at all until putting in an RK tek piston and head kit, 0* or colder this thing is a bear to pull over, to the point where I'm waiting for the recoil to snap, runs fine when started, and once warmed up it pulls over normally.
Only thing I can think of is I'm running mineral oil, not synthetic. (recommended for this kit by RK TEK), anyone else running this kit and seeing the same thing? I assume the mineral oil is thicker when cold than synthetic but would that cause this? Oiler is also turned up 3 turns.

 

[briand]

2012 Pro 800, never had an issue at all until putting in an RK tek piston and head kit, 0* or colder this thing is a bear to pull over, to the point where I'm waiting for the recoil to snap, runs fine when started, and once warmed up it pulls over normally.
Only thing I can think of is I'm running mineral oil, not synthetic. (recommended for this kit by RK TEK), anyone else running this kit and seeing the same thing? I assume the mineral oil is thicker when cold than synthetic but would that cause this? Oiler is also turned up 3 turns.

I have the same kit and year of pro. I know he recomemed to use mineral oil and I did for a bit but I quit using it two years ago and went back to synthetic. Same issues you had and going back helped. I think now if you go to his site and see the install instructions he has posted now I believe he doesn't mention to use mineral oil.

http://www.2strokeheads.com/info/POLARIS REV 1 Drop In Polaris Installation.doc

Hope this helps you out

 

[Reg2view]

Running Legend, or something different? I ran the RKT piston/head kit on an 11, with Legend, and it wasn't that different from what I can recall. Now, I know people can argue if Legend is mineral or semi-syn. RKT is a Legend dealer, as you likely know, too.


In the carb days, we would choke/pull the enrichener to flood the engine till it killed at the end of the day - it would help cold starts the next morn in -20F. Washes down the cyl wall. It worked. Of course, can't do that with EFI.

 

[Quicksand]

Ya the oil is the only thing that makes sense to me, I talked to Kelsey, he never said go back to synthetic but to try legend as well, I cant seem to find anywhere that sells the stuff though, I'm running the Shell Advance oil which you would think should be good for cold weather but I guess I'll have to try something different. Thanks for the responses, good to know I'm not the only one who has seen this happen.

 

[BILTIT]

My 11 rmk was a bear to start one morning with long rod and 13.6 domes at 2000ft, temp was around -28c.

Funny thing was, (out of 3 sleds and my 11 being the only fuel injected of the bunch), my 04 910 carbed engine fired right up. It is a heck of a pull but it always fires well aslong as you can hang on to that rope!

The '11 took about 8-10 pulls to fire. I have since straightened out some of the idle/starting issues that are caused by vforce reeds and it does start and idle alot better. I have not had that cold of weather to try it again though.

 

[BILTIT]

Have you tried slowly turning it over 3-4 times before pulling for a start? I find this helps loosen it up some. It is standard practice for my 910 even at warm temps.

 

[Quicksand]

Have you tried slowly turning it over 3-4 times before pulling for a start? I find this helps loosen it up some. It is standard practice for my 910 even at warm temps.

LOL, I had a 18V cordless drill on the Clutch bolt in the parking lot, and still could barely pull it over with the cord. at -20*C.

 

[BILTIT]

How many miles on the rktek kit? They do loosen up after a little bit.

 

[Zrider]

X2 on what BILTIT said. I've always done this on all my sleds. It just loosens things up a little before you give a big pull or hit the E-start. My '15 Pro has E-start and I still make 2-3 slow pulls before I turn the key to fire things up.

 

[BILTIT]

And for oil, i really like legend but it is hard to find and pricey. My next go to oil is IPONE, still some money but good stuff and alittle easier to find.

 

[jim]

Why wouldn't a good synthetic oil work? Amsoil or Redline? I've run everything over the years and never a lubrication related failure. I can't imagine you are that far on the edge to need an exclusive oil. The synthetics also pull over easily when cold.

 

[Quicksand]

How many miles on the rktek kit? They do loosen up after a little bit.

2000km on the kit, I've just been dealing with it, this year though we've rode a lot more cold days than the last 2

 

[Quicksand]

Why wouldn't a good synthetic oil work? Amsoil or Redline? I've run everything over the years and never a lubrication related failure. I can't imagine you are that far on the edge to need an exclusive oil. The synthetics also pull over easily when cold.

Ya I'm sure a synthetic would be fine in it too, but when a guy sells you a kit and tells you not to run the $100 jug and go grab a $25 jug instead, who's gonna argue?

 

[BILTIT]

Try a semi-synthetic, it will help and you get the benefits of both.

I have run all kinds of oils in my sleds, it usually comes down to smell first and then price second for me. I find legend and ipone are top notch on the smell scale for me. Amsoil bothers my nose/throat after a long day of riding, same goes for polaris ves.

 

[Quicksand]

Really? Strawberry scented? WTF?? https://fortnine.ca/en/ipone-snow-racing-2-t-strawberry-scented?gclid=CLes_oO2ldICFVa5wAodIpAGkQ

 

[BILTIT]

LOL, ya so they say. I dont think it smells like strawberries but it is a pleasent smell both before and after being burned.

 

[Hansen13]

Have you tried slowly turning it over 3-4 times before pulling for a start? I find this helps loosen it up some. It is standard practice for my 910 even at warm temps.

I do the same with my sled as well, regardless of temp. Always give it a couple slow pulls before hand never seem to have an issue when it's cold.

 

[Reg2view]

Well, you could always pull the plugs and turn it over to loosen it up. After a -40F night outside, we do it to keep the recoil from breaking in the morning. Put warm plugs in, too. Belt, too.

 

[Quicksand]

Well, you could always pull the plugs and turn it over to loosen it up. After a -40F night outside, we do it to keep the recoil from breaking in the morning. Put warm plugs in, too. Belt, too.

It's not the compression that makes it hard to turn over, If I put a spring gauge on it I'd say it's at least 80LB constant force through the entire range while pulling. I don't have a choice I have to pull it over slowly about 10 times before really trying to pull it or I think I'll break the rope, or the plastic handle or something inside the recoil. Like I said, an 18V drill will not turn this over, I had it full power plus pulling the rope and still barely turning it over when it was -20*C. I mean this thing is a C*NT to get going in the morning. But once its ran for even a minute its 100 times easier to pull and when fully warm is starts like any other sled. No other issues, lots of power, idles fine, just don't like the cold. Of course it's forcasted warm temps here and no snow as far as I can see in the long range so it'll be a while before I know if changing the oil Makes the difference

 

[gtwitch]

I have the same problem with my 11 Pro 800 after 2100 mi, I put the SLP stage 3 on it with new stock pistons and after it lost a Mag side rod bearing at 3200 mi ( not enough oil), I put rebuilt crank and Sno X fix kit on it and turned the oil pump up 4 turns and problem remained so I think that problem is TOo much compression. The engine really runs and pulls hard and I like that and after the initial start of the day, everything is good! I have been tempted to put the origional stock heads/domes on with the Sno X pistons and see if the cold hard start/pull issue goes away or lessens?? Might do this, I'll post back if I do this. I have almost 5200 mles on it now.
gtwitch in wyoming