Extra belt drive belt?
- Thread starter an171
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I've ran a TKI belt drive since they were first released for cats. TKI uses Gates belts. I've never carried a spare on the sled, but always have a spare in the tool box back at the truck. I'm happy to say I've never needed it. I even ran one kit and belt on two different sleds. More time is needed, but so far I have not heard of any issues with the AC belts. That said, because of all the success I've had with the Gates belts, I likely will switch to a Gates belt and use the AC factory belt as a spare.
I bought a spare and stuck it under the hood with the clutch belt.
I was with a buddy on a Pro when his exhaust spring fell off and got wedged between the belly pan and the lower shive. It was a good thing there was a dealer in town. With an Arctic Cat that could have went from the 30 minute fix that it was to a day road trip.
I was with a buddy on a Pro when his exhaust spring fell off and got wedged between the belly pan and the lower shive. It was a good thing there was a dealer in town. With an Arctic Cat that could have went from the 30 minute fix that it was to a day road trip.
I don't yet have a catalyst but this is what I do with my proclimb and ascender sleds. I carry a spare in my tunnel bag rolled up inside the clutch drive belt. They are a lightweight piece of insurance in case a nut/bolt/exhaust spring finds its way in and tears it up. Both my sleds use the same drive belt and belt drive belt so I only have one spare of each and the tunnel bag moves to whatever sled I'm riding.
So you are going to carry a torque wrench and all the other tools needed to change? Guess there goes the weight savings?
If your elbow is dialed in you don't need a torque wrench for those bolts. Just go till the ol elbow clicks and yer done. That will get you off the hill.
Yeah, no torque wrench. By feel is plenty good to get off the hill. There's few things in general that I torque on my sled. Critical engine components, clutch bolts, and the driveshaft nuts. Everything else gets a "good'n'tight."
According to AC the drive belt is a life time part yet they are available in the parts book hmm? I think it also depends how close a dealer is from where you ride, You would hate to loss a trip over a 200 dollar belt That being said maybe a spare in the trailer would be a good idea.
Its always better to be lookin at than for it. In the truck or trailer does you no good when your 30 miles back or down in drainage. All that does is ruin your day and whom ever has to ride back to get your "spare" that your too lazy to carry. or you get to sit around and watch your buddies ride all day
You got that right!
Has anyone tried to remove the the final drive belt? I ask because the book says you need to remove and install both gears together. I thought maybe you could slide the top gear off but it's looking like you can't. I am just trying to figure out what tools will be required for a in field replacement.
At about the 1:30 mark it gives you a good idea how the belt drive works. Everyone should throw those damn spanner nuts away and buy the TKI replacement shaft nut and wrench. I have the Cat spanner socket and could not get mine off. Had to use a punch and hammer. Also just a heads up for those with the HC boards the composite toe stop is a bitch to get out. You need to remove the bolt/nut above the toe stop so the board tube can slide out a bit. Just takes a little more prying but it comes out. It’s much easier removing that with the composite boards.
tkicnc.com
ARCTIC CAT CATALYST SHAFT NUT AND WRENCH | CNC-machined performance parts and accessories
ARCTIC CAT CATALYST SHAFT NUT AND WRENCH
tkicnc.com
At about the 1:30 mark it gives you a good idea how the belt drive works. Everyone should throw those damn spanner nuts away and buy the TKI replacement shaft nut and wrench. I have the Cat spanner socket and could not get mine off. Had to use a punch and hammer. Also just a heads up for those with the HC boards the composite toe stop is a bitch to get out. You need to remove the bolt/nut above the toe stop so the board tube can slide out a bit. Just takes a little more prying but it comes out. It’s much easier removing that with the composite boards.
ARCTIC CAT CATALYST SHAFT NUT AND WRENCH | CNC-machined performance parts and accessories
ARCTIC CAT CATALYST SHAFT NUT AND WRENCH
Did not look to hard to me.
No it doesn’t look hard with a box full of Milwaukee tools and a warm shop. Now try that with out power tools at -20 in a snow storm cause you know that’s when it’s going to break.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video!
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