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exhaust valve question

800poodragon

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Been chasing an rpm problem. Tonite took the rubber hoses off of the exhaust valves and put a piece of rubber hose on each side. One side I could blow thru the tubing pretty easy and the other valve I could not blow thru at all...which is correct?
 
rotate the motor 180 degrees and see if your observations are the same or switch sides.
 
rotate the motor 180 degrees and see if your observations are the same or switch sides.

Yep...as you roll the motor over it will change from side to side on both sides..I would assume it is ok then? Just cleaned exhaust valves recently and checked bellows and everything seemed fine.
 
Yep...as you roll the motor over it will change from side to side on both sides..I would assume it is ok then? Just cleaned exhaust valves recently and checked bellows and everything seemed fine.

That is correct.


Next, you should blow thru the hose going to the solenoid as you apply 12v to it and make sure the solenoid is working correctly.
 
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Hope you get it figured out. I am having a similar issue with rpm on the wifes 11' 600. Gonna try to get it to Scott next time they have snow in town. Been fighting it for over 2 years. Finally decided to let somebody else take a stab.

Your sled ran pretty good that day at Musselshell, even if down on rpm. I bet it will scream when you finally get the rpm where you need it.
 
Happened on my friends 11 try capping barbs on valves and drive it. I completely got rid of my y pipe and caped all three barbs on mine.
 
That is correct.


Next, you should blow thru the hose going to the solenoid as you apply 12v to it and make sure the solenoid is working correctly.

Going to check that tonight. Also going to put the sled on a stand and run and watch the tops to see if the valves are opening correctly.

Thanks everybody...I will let you know what I find out.

Anybody know if the solenoid is polarity sensitive?
 
What do you mean by rpm problem ? Red wire is voltage,white yellow go to ecu( ground ).At the 6200 range the ecu grounds out which powers the solenoid to close . hope it helps
 
What do you mean by rpm problem ? Red wire is voltage,white yellow go to ecu( ground ).At the 6200 range the ecu grounds out which powers the solenoid to close . hope it helps

RPM's will go to 8100 then drop down to 7800 or 7900. After sled warms up more (a few more miles down the trail when starting) it will not see above 8000 rpm's. Made a clutch change and I just put a new belt on but was checking out a couple other things while I had everything open. I am thinking the belt is going to make a change for sure. We will see Saturday.
 
Amazing how a worn belt can drop RPMs, just from hitting abit of 'overdrive' on the clutches with a too thin belt, even if the belt is still 'in spec'. Same reason why it pays to measure the width of every new belt, as a narrower new belt from your optimal setup will hit that overdrive point sooner, sometimes, much sooner, in the belt's lifecycle. I hope that's all it is. Going through both clutches at the same time/right after the belt change is always important, too, as you obviously know, when searching for an RPM loss like you have. Good luck.
 
Amazing how a worn belt can drop RPMs, just from hitting abit of 'overdrive' on the clutches with a too thin belt, even if the belt is still 'in spec'. Same reason why it pays to measure the width of every new belt, as a narrower new belt from your optimal setup will hit that overdrive point sooner, sometimes, much sooner, in the belt's lifecycle. I hope that's all it is. Going through both clutches at the same time/right after the belt change is always important, too, as you obviously know, when searching for an RPM loss like you have. Good luck.

I agree...I was measuring the belt I have been running against a new one I have and did not see much difference. It seemed ok but I am now thinking different. I have disassembled clutches and checked everything. Spring is good. tried different weights and clutches. Belt has been only thing I did not change to this point.
 
What year is sled and how many miles?

If a new belt and new clutch springs don't help, don't discount the fact that worn rings and loose piston to cylinder clearances may be the culprit.
 
Hey Double D, he just had the sled completely rebuilt prior to the season and he went to the SLP Stage 4 kit from the 3. I believe he was fighting rpm issues even with the State 3 kit at the end of last year.
 
What year is sled and how many miles?

If a new belt and new clutch springs don't help, don't discount the fact that worn rings and loose piston to cylinder clearances may be the culprit.

Should be ok there...just put in new pistons and rings in October. Sled is a 12. Had about 850 miles on it when I rebuilt...has right at 1200 now.
 
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Hey Double D, he just had the sled completely rebuilt prior to the season and he went to the SLP Stage 4 kit from the 3. I believe he was fighting rpm issues even with the State 3 kit at the end of last year.

I have found a couple issues. Tied clutch was opening and closing real hard. Cleaned it now it opens and closes (without the spring in) real easy. Also just changed fuel filter today...had quite a bit of junk in it. Also just put the new belt on when I reinstalled the tied. Off to the races in Lewistown tomorrow...we will see how it does now:face-icon-small-hap
 
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