Been chasing an rpm problem. Tonite took the rubber hoses off of the exhaust valves and put a piece of rubber hose on each side. One side I could blow thru the tubing pretty easy and the other valve I could not blow thru at all...which is correct?
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rotate the motor 180 degrees and see if your observations are the same or switch sides.
Yep...as you roll the motor over it will change from side to side on both sides..I would assume it is ok then? Just cleaned exhaust valves recently and checked bellows and everything seemed fine.
That is correct.
Next, you should blow thru the hose going to the solenoid as you apply 12v to it and make sure the solenoid is working correctly.
What do you mean by rpm problem ? Red wire is voltage,white yellow go to ecu( ground ).At the 6200 range the ecu grounds out which powers the solenoid to close . hope it helps
Amazing how a worn belt can drop RPMs, just from hitting abit of 'overdrive' on the clutches with a too thin belt, even if the belt is still 'in spec'. Same reason why it pays to measure the width of every new belt, as a narrower new belt from your optimal setup will hit that overdrive point sooner, sometimes, much sooner, in the belt's lifecycle. I hope that's all it is. Going through both clutches at the same time/right after the belt change is always important, too, as you obviously know, when searching for an RPM loss like you have. Good luck.
What year is sled and how many miles?
If a new belt and new clutch springs don't help, don't discount the fact that worn rings and loose piston to cylinder clearances may be the culprit.
Hey Double D, he just had the sled completely rebuilt prior to the season and he went to the SLP Stage 4 kit from the 3. I believe he was fighting rpm issues even with the State 3 kit at the end of last year.