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Exhaust Sensor Failure??? Why??

M

M1000Mod162

Well-known member
wondering if anyone else is haveing trouble with these sensors i have burned up three already this year! I have had six fail since i have owned the sled.

My Question is does anyone know what causes these sensors to quit? My sled is a 2007 M1000.

Thank you in advance!
 
From what I've heard from A.C. is that if there is any aftermarket work done to the exhaust that it changes the harmonics to the exhaust and can break the sensors. Don't know if it's true but thats what i've been told.

Jeff
 
any other thoughts on this?

Is it true that leaded fuels cause the sensor to fail? Seems like if that was the case that turbo sleds running race gas would be replacing them alot!
 
any other thoughts on this?

Is it true that leaded fuels cause the sensor to fail? Seems like if that was the case that turbo sleds running race gas would be replacing them alot!

yes and yes. leaded fuel ruins them and turbos do go through them frequently. There is a resistor that you can put on that replaces the sensor. You can get them at radio shack, I can't remember the number, look under the turbo section hatchers knows the actual resistor number and has posted it. Just be careful to let your sled warm up a lot, because the resistor is always telling the computer that the sled is warm. hope this helps
 
Here is the post from hatchers

the pipe temp sensor is a themistoor and not a thermocouple.....so it wont last very long on good leaded fuel, you can keep giving CAT $100 everytime this thing goes bad or simply bypass it as many have done with great results. But, you need to understand that bypassing this sensor with a resistors tricks the sled into thinking its running hotter (heat soaked).....so, it could be easy to cold seize the sled if you dont let it idle for a few seconds before you hammer down the throttle, im safe and let it idle for 30 secs before i even move the sled, then let her idle for a minute or so as you whould do with any stock of non-stock sled

anywho, go to radio shack and buy some 470 resistors, remove the bad sensor and add the resisitor, no a resistor doe not have poliarity
______________
 
Here is the post from hatchers

the pipe temp sensor is a themistoor and not a thermocouple.....so it wont last very long on good leaded fuel, you can keep giving CAT $100 everytime this thing goes bad or simply bypass it as many have done with great results. But, you need to understand that bypassing this sensor with a resistors tricks the sled into thinking its running hotter (heat soaked).....so, it could be easy to cold seize the sled if you dont let it idle for a few seconds before you hammer down the throttle, im safe and let it idle for 30 secs before i even move the sled, then let her idle for a minute or so as you whould do with any stock of non-stock sled

anywho, go to radio shack and buy some 470 resistors, remove the bad sensor and add the resisitor, no a resistor doe not have poliarity
______________

ok sounds like a good idea to me can i get a little more info please?

Get 470 resistors. do you just plug these into the factory plug for the sensor?

Do you just plug the exhaust hole or leave the prope in it?
 
i think it will keep full timing all the time with the resistor...so when cold... let it warm up good before ripping. also loop the wire back on to the sensor body and zip tie down. vibration with the wire flopping around could break wires or something causing it to fail. just a guess.
 
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Why would leaded fuel cause the failure?

What part of the sensor fails due to the lead?

Anyone know.................
 
The only one that I have had fail was due to a broken wire inside the metal sheath. We cut the metal and found the wire broke at the end of the crimped terminal. The wires are tiny. Yes this sled had an aftermarket pipe on it and the wire tie had been lost. So take it for what its worth.

I also would like to know what exactly the lead may be doing to cause failure of this sensor.

Edit

Wiki

"Resistance thermometers are usually made using platinum, because of its linear resistance-temperature relationship and its chemical inertness. The platinum detecting wire needs to be kept free of contamination to remain stable. A platinum wire or film is supported on a former in such a way that it gets minimal differential expansion or other strains from its former, yet is reasonably resistant to vibration. RTD assemblies made from iron or copper are also used in some applications."

Lead and Platinum do not get along.
 
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im confused about these 470 resistors? i have not got to radio shack yet to see what they are but how are they going to plug into the exsisting plug? Any help on this would be very helpful to me thank you for any help guys!
 
Just a resistor that you have to soldier into place, cut the bad sensor off and soldier it in.

However, I tried it and it did not work.
 
If you take the pipe sensor out and put an ohm meter across the plug it should be about 200 ohms cold. If you put the sensor in a vice and heat the probe with a torch you can watch the ohms rise, the hotter you get it, the higher the ohms. At around 500 ohms is the resistance that the sensor has when the pipe is up to riding temp.

If you want to bypass the temp sensor, just cut the probe off the wire and use the probe to plug the hole in your pipe. Then take the 470 ohm resister that Hatchers mentioned and connect each end of it to a wire that went to the old probe that you cut off. You can also build a jumper wire that has the resistor in the middle and put the wire in the old connector that you cut off the pipe sensor, then just plug it into the stock harness.
 
So what is the purpose of the exhaust sensor is it just there to tell the ecu how warm the motor is? I always asumed it was similar to a O2 sensor and helped the ecu fuel the sled is this wrong?
 
So what is the purpose of the exhaust sensor is it just there to tell the ecu how warm the motor is? I always asumed it was similar to a O2 sensor and helped the ecu fuel the sled is this wrong?

The ECU has two modes, when you first start the sled and it's cold it runs in a closed loop mode, making the sled run rich and retards the timing to prevent damage to the motor from running it cold. After you run the sled for awhile and the temp and exhaust temp sensors get in their operating range the sled leaves it's closed loop and starts making fuel corrections for altitude, air temp, etc... If you have an A/F gauge you can watch this happen. When you leave the truck and start down the trail the sled will have A/F reading around 10:1 regardless of throttle position. After a couple minutes of riding the A/F will jump to somewhere around the 12:1-13:1 range. The jump in A/F reading is when the ECU starts to compensate for the readings the sensors are giving it. By bypassing the exhaust temp sensor with a resistor you are just telling the ECU that the pipe temp is in operating range.

A bad temp sensor is just not putting out enough ohms at operating temp to tell the ECU that everything is good to go. You can run a bad sensor but eventually it will cause the ECU to retard the timing, thinking that the sled it always cold. A failed temp sensor will not leave you in the woods, it will just make the sled run like crap on the way back to the truck.
 
does anyone know what wat the 470 resistor should be? They have a 1/2 watt, 1/4 watt, and a 1/8 watt im asuming probably a 1/2 watt

thank you
 
ok i tried the 470 resistor sotored into the plug in on the sensor and its still tripping the code did i do something wrong?
 
ok i tried the 470 resistor sotored into the plug in on the sensor and its still tripping the code did i do something wrong?

Like I said, I did the same thing and it didn't work. I spoke with someone at AC and they said it doesn't always work. I bit the bullet and replaced the sensor, and wola, ran like a champ.
 
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