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exhaust leaks... how anal??

C

catmanm7

Well-known member
So I kept my stock pipe donuts on both ends and made my own clamping system similar to OVS (bolts and springs). Anyway, I pressurize my system to about 5-8lbs. Only way I can hear leaks is by using a boost line as a stethoscope and hearing a little hiss. I can run this sled on a stand in the shop and it may hit 5lbs with boost knob turned way down. I think once I take it out the leaks may get less once everything start to seat in and the turbo is under a load. I am also going to try some heavier springs as well and the donuts are brand new. When I installed the donuts I used the RTV red high temp silicone all over them. I thought this would be better then the copper gasket stuff because it will allow the exhaust to move a little more, and the silicon is a lot thicker then the copper gasket material.
Also, were the rod for waste gate comes out of the turbo housing, I have a small air leak there,and will drip oil, probably from my 2stroke mix, not the turbo oil.
How anal do I need to be on this stuff, I am positive that my intake leaks are fixed, but how important is the exhaust side of it?
Should I try the copper gasket stuff instead?
When the exhaust donuts heat up, will the seal a bit more?

Thanks, I will be taking it out this weekend regardless, I just dont want to end up with a fail for the first time out. So anything I can do as a quick fix will help
 
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The gaskets will seal better with some heat cycles. Is the spring tension on your bolts pretty stout? You can always load the engine with the brake on the stand and see during blow off how well it seals. Exhaust leaks would cause some inconsistency and performance. You should try and get some stronger springs or add some normal springs to the perimeter of your clamp.
 
Ya, I am going to go the exhaust shop and get some different springs. Mine were just some hardware store ones, I really cranked them down to where the spring doesnt have much more to go to be fully compressed. Pipe doesnt move though when i try to wiggle it.
I think the grafoil when it heats it will start to become softer and settle in some places. I might as well just give it a try and see how it goes.
 
Everytime I take my exhaust off I clean the donuts and pipe w/ brake cleaner and reseal with Permatex Ultra Copper. It will fix an old, splooging donut, but only if you have patience and wait overnight for the stuff to cure. If you start the sled while the sealant is wet it will just blow it out. RacinStation says he does this on turbos everytime too.
 
When i change my springs, ill do that tonight as well. I just used the copper stuff on a spare gasket and didnt seem thick or pliable. Anyway, thanks for your help.
 
Pardon my ignorance with this but could a person just run straight hardware without springs? There is no way that the pressure would separate the pipe from the Graphoil seals then.

Once again I don't know the pro's and con's of doing this, just asking.

Thanks
 
I don't use any silicone or gasket sealer on my turbo. I was told that if it comes loose and goes through the exhaust it could take out the fins on the turbo.

I've got the OVS kit and i keep watch the tension on the springs. Not too tight, but tight enough.
 
If you ran no springs and just bolted it, you may have a lot of stress on the y-pipe and alot of other things. Rev your motor, everything moves and vibrates. Springs are there to maintain pressure but also absorb some vibration and movement. Just like rubber mounts for our motors, instead of just hard mounting everything.

I and going to use small amount of the copper gasket in certain areas, and hope that once the sled warms up and runs a bit, the grafoil will seal a little better.
 
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