Looking for feedback from anyone who runs (or has run) this kit. Don't want to give up my stock parts so this seems like a viable option for more power.
Engine Tech M7 - 900 BB kit
- Thread starter moyiesledhead
- Start date
S
SLEDIOT
Well-known member
PM "FROCK". he can give you some #'s. I just gave him a hand in tuning his 900 engine tech. It still has some slight issues but when we got it to go it went! We turned the fuel pressure down to about 30-31 psi and that cleaned it up a bit. Bad bottom end bog but once you got out of the bottom end look out!!! Ill have to mention reeds to him, I have a new set used once I can sell him.................
I had one that i ran for a season then i blew it up ,my fault too much timing to little octane I had it completely rebuilt and ended up trading to a friend and he used the bmp pipe but did not want to melt everything so it got heat wrapped and he put in vforce which do nothing for a stock sled but really help on the 900 he set it up with all my stuff other than the reeds and heat wrap and different fuel controller and me and a friend rode it and tuned it fior him in lolo mt and we were both surprised what I can say is it outran my 1000 the skis came off the gound 2ft and stayed that way all the way up the hill. sorry so long so if you set it up right it will rip use a 2.5 timing key 3k and above..but he is running a powerclaw track whick might have something to do with hookup
Last edited:
I had one on a '06, it worked very good, went with the single BMP fatazz single, pump gas. As far as I know it is still running great with the new owner. It was easy to tune and clutch, made decent power, about like a very good running M1000.
M1000 power with M7 agility....sounds like a winner to me! Thanks guys!
M
M-niner
Active member
Still got it WB and the thing has been bullet proof. Very little messing with the BD Box, has been a true pull and go sled. Hey Moyie, not sure what elevation you are running, but if you get this set-up give me a shout and I will hook you up with some numbers. Only advice I would give you is stay stock with the airbox and can.
Thanks m-niner, I'll do that. I was planning on staying stock with airbox and can. I normally run 3000 ft to 7000 ft, occasionally a little higher. I'm liking this idea more and more.
Still got it WB and the thing has been bullet proof. Very little messing with the BD Box, has been a true pull and go sled. Hey Moyie, not sure what elevation you are running, but if you get this set-up give me a shout and I will hook you up with some numbers. Only advice I would give you is stay stock with the airbox and can.
Good to hear!! I see you went with a little more Orange
F
frock
Well-known member
I have this engine in an 06 M7 chassis. It works well though I can't attest to its durability cause I installed it last summer and have only got about 6 rides on it since then, too bloody busy. I am having an issue with a bottom end bog, as Slediot mentioned above. I will get that worked out then I should be able to fine tune the clutching and then I think this sled will rip. M-niner why do you say to run the stock air box and can? Not being a di#k, just wondering if I'm missing something. I am running a BDX intake and my exhaust is all BMP with the single pipe, y pipe and can. This setup seems to work well and I saved a lot of weight on the front end with this. I also run a 2.5 degree timing key. This timing key is very important moyiesledhead, if you decide to go with this engine. I spoke to Art Sever about this motor while I was trying to tune it, I hadn't installed the key yet as I was afraid of deto. When I told Art this he said that this key was good for 15 to 20 horse on these motors. The timing on the M7 doesn't allow for enough time for a complete fuel burn across these considerably larger pistons. Good luck moyiesledhead I don't think you'll be disappointed if you choose to go with one of these engines.
Cheers;
Shane
Cheers;
Shane
S
SLEDIOT
Well-known member
Im hoping you blow the motor or somethin BAD!! So I can purchase that sweet hood LOL just joshin ya............
WOW! Never mind the big bore....I want that hood! I'd just set it in my living room and stare at it!
M
M-niner
Active member
I have this engine in an 06 M7 chassis. It works well though I can't attest to its durability cause I installed it last summer and have only got about 6 rides on it since then, too bloody busy. I am having an issue with a bottom end bog, as Slediot mentioned above. I will get that worked out then I should be able to fine tune the clutching and then I think this sled will rip. M-niner why do you say to run the stock air box and can? Not being a di#k, just wondering if I'm missing something. I am running a BDX intake and my exhaust is all BMP with the single pipe, y pipe and can. This setup seems to work well and I saved a lot of weight on the front end with this. I also run a 2.5 degree timing key. This timing key is very important moyiesledhead, if you decide to go with this engine. I spoke to Art Sever about this motor while I was trying to tune it, I hadn't installed the key yet as I was afraid of deto. When I told Art this he said that this key was good for 15 to 20 horse on these motors. The timing on the M7 doesn't allow for enough time for a complete fuel burn across these considerably larger pistons. Good luck moyiesledhead I don't think you'll be disappointed if you choose to go with one of these engines.
Cheers;
Shane
I just had big time issues with a bog after running an aftermarket can and air intake. So much, I thought my BD Box was screwed because the sled wouldn't respond to the changes now matter what I tried. Put the stock can and airbox back on and the thing never misses a beat?? I have pretty much the same set-up as you, maybe I'll try BDX.
F
frock
Well-known member
Where was your bog at? Mine is right on the bottom end, it's too lean. My air/fuel gauge is usually indicating over 17% O2 and sometimes goes overrange. I'm pinned on the rich side in this range and have tried pulling fuel which makes it even worse. Both these things tell me it's to lean. I have another new pure logic controller that I am going to try and if that doesn't get it I'm gonna send one of them to OVS so they can flash a different and hopefully better program for me. Once I get out of the bottom end bog the sled rocks.
I tried alot of different intakes with both 700 and ET900 and the STOCK airbox, including stock diameter intake worked the best everytime....I seem to remember that dynotech showed similar results with stock airbox up to over 1,000cc's.
I got low end bog with every other intake and a buddy had low end bog with a aftermarket silencer.....although I know SOME silencers work fine.
I got low end bog with every other intake and a buddy had low end bog with a aftermarket silencer.....although I know SOME silencers work fine.
S
SLEDIOT
Well-known member
I have discovered that back pressure from a good silencer can cure a low end bog. I would say this is why stock cans work well. 1 of the above pics shows a stock rusty can but I bet it rips!! I changed cans on my 09 m1000 and got rid of the low end bog. Im running the 900 D&D big bore on my 06 m7 I have a low end bog with an MBRP can. This can has low back pressure. Im going to go with the D&D trailcan (not the baker can) for more back pressure. And then I will throw my V-force 3 reeds back in to crisp it up.
