Just sittin here thinking about changing the oil in my truck. Just wondering what kind of oil does everyone use? and anybody believe the "oil is oil...." or you get the more expensive?
Engine Oil?
- Thread starter ouch
- Start date
The last two vehicles I've owned (1987 Trans Am 305 and a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L) I ran Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic in ..
Between those two vehicles I logged roughly 250,000 and neither one burned a drop.
In contrast however, I bought a 2005 Chevrolet 2500HD with the 8.1L big block ...
In the three oil changes I've done on the truck since I've owned it with Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic ... it's burned a quart each time
I'm gonna switch back over to regular Conoco 5W30 Hydroclear dino oil and see if it likes that better.
Between those two vehicles I logged roughly 250,000 and neither one burned a drop.
In contrast however, I bought a 2005 Chevrolet 2500HD with the 8.1L big block ...
In the three oil changes I've done on the truck since I've owned it with Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic ... it's burned a quart each time
I'm gonna switch back over to regular Conoco 5W30 Hydroclear dino oil and see if it likes that better.
Whatever is on sale. I had a POS Toyota celica with 200,000 miles on it, just for fun i decided to not change the oil anymore, ran it another 40,000 while only adding a little oil as needed, oil was still fairly clean on the dipstick and compression readings were still over 180 (like new). Sold the car and still runs fine today. I'm not saying do this with a nice car, but it just tells me that even cheap oil and old oil can provide adequate protection.
i've always used the cheap no-name brands in my truck with no problems. a while back in a mechanics class i was told that its basically all the same as long as its got the little circle with some letters and stuff on the back of the bottle, i guess this is like a certifacation or inspection tag or something. im kinda cheap so i just look for the cheapest i can find as long as its got the little circle on it, its worked so far.
I have ran everything from M1 to Amsoil to ELF. I am running Amsoil in one vehicle and Elf Solaris 5w30 (VAG507) in my TDI. I have my oil analysed, which is the ONLY real way to know how long you can run it. Great place to find out about oil:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
BTW... Burning a little oil is not a big deal. Burning a lot of oil is a big deal. I do 10k mile oil changes and I burn anywhere from .5 liter to a liter per change.
You are crazy if you are not using a synthetic oil.
All oil is not the same. The base stock might be the same but you are paying for the additive package witin the oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
BTW... Burning a little oil is not a big deal. Burning a lot of oil is a big deal. I do 10k mile oil changes and I burn anywhere from .5 liter to a liter per change.
You are crazy if you are not using a synthetic oil.
All oil is not the same. The base stock might be the same but you are paying for the additive package witin the oil.
Ran Shell Rotella in my diesel. Now in my gasser it's whatever is in the hose that the dealer puts in. I think it says 5W20 but who really know if that's what comes out or if that's what the oil jockey puts in it.
S
spudman720
Member
John Deere plus/50 15/40. My powerstroke has 200000 and uses 1/2 quart in 5000 miles. Have a 8400T with 6000 hrs with a chip on it (stock 225 hp dynos at 356) uses about 1 gallon in 200 hrs. If it can hold up to that heat and stress I recomend it.
i use quaker state dino based and synthetic. used both for years. like to run dino based for a few oil changes then switch over to synthetic.never had a problem with either one. change oil every 5000 and have never had to add any between changes
i normally use valvoline or havoline in a case but i can use the kendall from work and it works just as good and its cheaper
M
MN_Nole
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Have always and only run synthetic, mostly mobil 1 on occasion the penzoil and valvoline synthetics, when was to cold to change on my own. With the penzoil and valvoline synthetic brands have seen wax build up on the oild cap. So stopped with those brands. Recently just switched over to Amsoil, No wax and much cleaner looking at normal oil change. Then I did change at earlier intervals than they say can, wanted to ensure it was only there oil in the system, not a mix. Amsoil is a bit pricier, but say can go longer.
Sounds like you are doing good, but one thing to consider.
When you are using an oil that is designed to be ran longer, it can actually hurt your motor by changing it too soon. The additives have not had a chance to activate. So basically if the oil might be designed to go 10,000 miles, if you change it at 3,000 miles you are inhibiting MORE wear than if you change it at 10,000 miles. Basically with certain oils (maybe or maybe not, your oil) there is MORE wear in miles 0-3,000 than there is from 3,001-10,0000 miles.
Only way to know is to get it tested.
Ditto that. Everyone can say they see this or that but the only real way of telling how your oil is doing is to have a sample tested.
It's cheap, it will let you know the health of your engine and in some cases could be used in a warranty thing if there has been a trend and all of a sudden a failure in which the dealer doesn't want to take care of. It's a long shot on that one but the more ammo you have in most cases the better.
I would recommend a sample test at least 1-2 times a year on a gasser, more so on the diesels if you drive a lot.
I switched from Amsoil in my diesel to rotella because of sample numbers. It was that noticable in terms of wear and lubrication ability. The rotella flat out had better numbers.
Blackstone labs is about the easiest IMO.
I found some Quaker state for $.77 a quart after a rebate. not bad.
We have totally went away from oil in our truck fleet.
We use Suffolk placenta blended with Badger spinal fluid and Goose snot.
When blended in the correct proportions, this concoction will not break down,
therefore never needing changing.
The lubricity is superior to any oil currently being marketed.
If your engine has excessive blowby, this can be remedied by increasing the
percentage of Goose snot.
We use Suffolk placenta blended with Badger spinal fluid and Goose snot.
When blended in the correct proportions, this concoction will not break down,
therefore never needing changing.
The lubricity is superior to any oil currently being marketed.
If your engine has excessive blowby, this can be remedied by increasing the
percentage of Goose snot.
M
MN_Nole
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Sounds like you are doing good, but one thing to consider.
When you are using an oil that is designed to be ran longer, it can actually hurt your motor by changing it too soon. The additives have not had a chance to activate. So basically if the oil might be designed to go 10,000 miles, if you change it at 3,000 miles you are inhibiting MORE wear than if you change it at 10,000 miles. Basically with certain oils (maybe or maybe not, your oil) there is MORE wear in miles 0-3,000 than there is from 3,001-10,0000 miles.
Only way to know is to get it tested.
Great points, and I did forget to mention I do test the oil. I work as a chemist( Chem E by degree) so I am lucky to get people I work with to test it. May not be as accurate as the labs RJ suggested, but the results I am sure are very close, as this is not our area but the testing principles are the same. Plus I can add additional testing, to look for things I want to target, search for any metal particulates, or any other fuels not found in the clean oil. All have come out fine. Have done my research/homework, knowing that some of the synthetics do not contain the detergents found in most organic/oil based oils.
Hope this helps.
