Engine Movement.

[Turbo11T]

So I built a fancy jackshaft snubber today like shown on the other post. . . Went to put it on and I could not believe how much the stock motor mounts allow the engine to move. With a 2ft pry bar I could move the engine up and down half an inch with little effort. It seems as though they need a "race" rubber mount and a "touring" rubber mount. One for the guys that wanna go fast and ones that to tour and not feel a single vibration. The stock one is honestly just way way to sloppy. Anyone know the durometer of this?

 

[Turbo11T]

here is a crappy video i made.

 

[Turbo11T]

JAckshaft snubber installed. . .

 

[Turbo11T]

A couple different engine mounts. The Onestop stuff is typically got the racer in mind that being said it is made for high hp. The ddracing stuff is geared more towards high performance trail riding and lake racing. I think the key would be the stiffest one without sending harsh vibrations into the chassis. Right now I think the stock ones are insufficent.

http://www.ospracingparts.com/servlet/the-179/ARCTIC-CAT-f1100-xf1100/Detail

http://www.ddracing.com/DD-Powerspo...otor-Mountsllang-detail.htm?productId=-404784

 

[ReaperMotorsports]

Thanks for the thread turbo. A very good thing to start looking at as we increase power. Something definitely worth doing imo

 

[Turbo11T]

Thanks for the thread turbo. A very good thing to start looking at as we increase power. Something definitely worth doing imo

Yes. . . No doubt. . more hp is going to bring out the weak points. The good news is that alot of the products are out there now.

 

[ReaperMotorsports]

I do like the setup from osp that goes around the jackshaft and mounts in a couple locations and the extra bumper they have mounted in front of it.

 

[Turbo11T]

I do like the setup from osp that goes around the jackshaft and mounts in a couple locations and the extra bumper they have mounted in front of it.

I actually think the solid one they have is to agressive. They have a new one now alot like the one I posted above. I am planning to make a engine snubber as well. With these two the engine should be held in place when into the throttle.

 

[Hillclimbpro]

I actually think the solid one they have is to agressive. They have a new one now alot like the one I posted above. I am planning to make a engine snubber as well. With these two the engine should be held in place when into the throttle.

Did you make your own or buy it from someone?

 

[ReaperMotorsports]

Your right that one does look really nice. I like it. I think we will start seeing more sleds with these on them. Sure havent heard many people talking about them

 

[Turbo11T]

Did you make your own or buy it from someone?

Made my own. . . It is a engine bumper rubber from a skidoo. Then I machined out the aluminum holder. Seems very sturdy. I am going to pin the rubber into the aluminum now as I feel the jackshaft could possibly lift off enough in the right situation that it could fall out.

There is a guy on HCS that is selling one alot like it. He is who I stole the idea from. I think he is selling them for like $50. So thats cheap.

 

[Hillclimbpro]

Made my own. . . It is a engine bumper rubber from a skidoo. Then I machined out the aluminum holder. Seems very sturdy. I am going to pin the rubber into the aluminum now as I feel the jackshaft could possibly lift off enough in the right situation that it could fall out.

There is a guy on HCS that is selling one alot like it. He is who I stole the idea from. I think he is selling them for like $50. So thats cheap.

Now the ultimate question is.......did you by chance make two of those? Lol

 

[Turbo11T]

Now the ultimate question is.......did you by chance make two of those? Lol

Nope. . . . . I only have one sled

 

[Hillclimbpro]

I hope the Evo guys chime in on this and tell us if they noticed a problem with the movement with the increased hp. Also with the higher hp was it causing the belt problems to magnify or were they seeing no difference in belt life.

 

[damx]

I've got clutchweight's jack shaft stop, Belanger racing jackshaft, and osp engine snubber. My engine also had 1" of sag. Took about half the sag out with the snubber. Just tighten snubber up so the engine mount bolt slide in and out,With out drag. Hope this stuff helps.

 

[Go-Vertical]

Here's a Canadian made one. Looks really good. http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6654996

 

[type_a_positive]

I actually think the solid one they have is to agressive. They have a new one now alot like the one I posted above. I am planning to make a engine snubber as well. With these two the engine should be held in place when into the throttle.

Which type of engine snubber/bumper are you going for?

I have a pair of D&D harder motor mounts and an OSP engine bumper (see pics) on my shelf, but have not decided which route to go. Stock motor mounts are 60 duro, do not know the D&D spec. I don`t really like the way the motormounts/TCLs are attached to the heat exchanger....

 

[Turbo11T]

Which type of engine snubber/bumper are you going for?

I have a pair of D&D harder motor mounts and an OSP engine bumper (see pics) on my shelf, but have not decided which route to go. Stock motor mounts are 60 duro, do not know the D&D spec. I don`t really like the way the motormounts/TCLs are attached to the heat exchanger....

Honestly now that I have seen how LOOSE the stock motor mounts are the tabs welded to the heat exhanger I think would be more at risk with the stock rubbers than harder ones. As the motor moves so much at it would be more of a jarring on them. I feel like the rubbers from DD would be slick. Though I think the OSP engine snubber along with the JAckshaft snubber would be more than sufficent. IF you wanted to take it the extra distance the rubber mounts from DD would be nice. How hard are they to install? The price tag is sure good on them.

NOTE:

I wanted to point out that I was not having belt issues last year. I pulled a cord with my stock clutching but I cut it off and burned it back in and then I did not have any issues once i went to the MDS weights. I can just just see the need to keep the engine firmer in the chassis for a number of reasons, hard on the chain, and just generally hard on all chassis parts with a engine that is over 100lbs bouncing up and down about 3/4" That can build alot of inertia.

 

[type_a_positive]

I only took out 1 belt last year, but the snow was deep on that climb, so no damage to the sled (except for the stupid stock clutch guard). Temps are down this year with new offset/Dalton secondary spring(DPSS-G/S)/new secondary bearing/jackshaft snubber and lots of vents.

On the mag side it is easy to change to the D&D mount, but the jackshaft must be removed to gain access on the pto side. The osp bumper is a breeze to install.

 

[Turbo11T]

I only took out 1 belt last year, but the snow was deep on that climb, so no damage to the sled (except for the stupid stock clutch guard). Temps are down this year with new offset/Dalton secondary spring(DPSS-G/S)/new secondary bearing/jackshaft snubber and lots of vents.

On the mag side it is easy to change to the D&D mount, but the jackshaft must be removed to gain access on the pto side. The osp bumper is a breeze to install.

Does the rubber come out of on the pto side toward the outside of the sled or the inside? If both rear bolts are out could a guy tilt the motor enough to get it out? Is a press needed or will it slide out?