Engine cutting out 13 pro 800

[lcoop]

My 13 has been running great until yesterday. No broken drive shaft or quick drive belt in 150 miles. Ran fine all day right up to loading it up. Drove home (20min) Went to start it back up to unload off the trailer and engine would cut out and almost die or die completely. It would start back up and idle fine. When putting it in reverse it would die or almost die. I'm hoping its a moisture thing and just needs to dry out. Here are the things I'm going to check Friday night when I get back down to the cabin. (Hopefully I didn't make a mistake by leaving it in MT and not bring it home to the dealer...)

-TPS plug and put in dielectric grease
-throttle cable tension
-worn or shorted wires
-plugs

Any other suggestions? I still have it in the ethanol setting and I'm running good 91 gas. I guess I should switch that too. Thanks for your help. Riding saturday so i hope i can figure it out friday night. Hopefully it just needed to un thaw.

 

[lcoop]

Just read my post above and I wasn't specific on what is actually going on. It starts in one pull. It idles fine. When I pushed the reverse button the motor would die the first few times. I got it into reverse with the motor idling gave a little throttle and the motor died. Got it off the trailer and wanted to see if this was only an issue in reverse. Does the exact same thing going forward. Idles fine sounds fine. Give it some throttle and the clutches in gage and will move forward a couple feet and then cut out. It doesn't feel like a bog it feels like the engine is cutting out similar to hitting the kill switch. I really hope it's just a moisture issue. Really lite powdery snow all day. I have done a bunch of searching and there is a lot of info just wondering if someone has had the same symptoms and what the solution was.

Thanks

 

[Old Scud-doo]

I think there is too much slop in your throttle cable. Causing the problem with the safety switch built into it. Just an opinion though.

 

[800poodragon]

Do the 13's have the security thing available like the 12's did? That would allow you to start it and let it run to warm up but would shut off when it got to the rpm where the clutch engaged...just a guess. Otherwise I would guess saftey switch...

 

[ultra51684]

I had this problem on my 11 pro... Parking break was my deal. I know it sounds stupid but that was all it was.

 

[AndrettiDog]

Make sure you have the TPS checked. They seem to be an issue on the Pro. I've had good luck with two Pro's but my buddy has had two of them that did the same thing. We thought an injector was bad but it was the TPS.

 

[lcoop]

Leaving parking brake on? Or electric issue with brake switch? Every time I pull my brake the parking brake light comes on on the gauge. Is this normal? I assumed it was. Could it be the problem?

 

[High Velocity]

I think there is too much slop in your throttle cable. Causing the problem with the safety switch built into it. Just an opinion though.

X2. This is the first thing to check. Make sure there is no ice built up between your throttle lever and block, then adjust your cable so that the lever has about .030"-.050" of freeplay.


Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!

 

[ultra51684]

Leaving parking brake on? Or electric issue with brake switch? Every time I pull my brake the parking brake light comes on on the gauge. Is this normal? I assumed it was. Could it be the problem?

The light should come on with the brake... Sounds like it is working the way it should.

 

[trencher1]

Mine is doing the same thing. 90.9 miles on it. It's at the dealer now will update when I get it back.

 

[IceCap]

I would suspect the TPS is acting up. That is a relatively common problem.

 

[Scott]

Do you have any aftermarket electronic devices installed on it, such as a teth-air?

They sent out a diode update on those that it stops that issue.

 

[trencher1]

Do you mean tether? I've got one on mine.

 

[lcoop]

Do you have any aftermarket electronic devices installed on it, such as a teth-air?

They sent out a diode update on those that it stops that issue.

No teth-air or cable tether. I do run my garmin rhino gps/radio mounted to the bar via ram mount. Could this interfere?

 

[Scott]

Do you mean tether? I've got one on mine.

No, I am referring to a Teth-air.

http://sourceinnovations.ca/

 

[Scott]

No teth-air or cable tether. I do run my garmin rhino gps/radio mounted to the bar via ram mount. Could this interfere?

I have NO idea. But if the Teth-air could interfere, then there is a chance that other products might also. If I knew the reason that the Teth-air caused a stall when going into reverse, then I could answer that better for you.

 

[trencher1]

No, I am referring to a Teth-air.

http://sourceinnovations.ca/

Ok I'm an idiot. I looked it up to figure out what you were talking about.

 

[turbolover]

The Teth-Air is a wireless tether system.
Cody you put a tether with a pull cord on it. A Teth-Air is a radio tether system. As long as you are within 3-5 feet the sled will run. Walk away or turn your back and cover the transmitter with your hand and it kills the sled.

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2

 

[lcoop]

Thanks guys. Have a few things to trouble shoot Friday night. I'll keep everyone posted what I find. Hopefully it's not a trip to the dealership......

 

[trencher1]

The Teth-Air is a wireless tether system.
Cody you put a tether with a pull cord on it. A Teth-Air is a radio tether system. As long as you are within 3-5 feet the sled will run. Walk away or turn your back and cover the transmitter with your hand and it kills the sled.

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I looked it to figure it out. Just had a brain fart.