engagement notches in polaris wieghts

[devilrmk]

Needing to up my engagement.

Needing some advice on engagement notches since I have never done it.

How deep do I need to go to get, say 1000 rpm?

Any info would help at this point.

 

[milehighassassin]

Sled? CC? Elevation? Purpose (Mountain, Drag, etc)

 

[devilrmk]

Didnt post it because i dont think it really matters. All i need info on is engagement notches. Not looking for other clutching recommendations because I am pretty happy with the way the clutching is acting other than engagement.

Not being unappreciative or trying to be an azz, just explaining my reasoning for not originally posting it.

Elevation 4-7k
Sled is 02 rmk 800 turbo running 8psi boost
mountain riding
159 challenger track, 21/41 gearing, clutching is polaris 10-70 wieghts, primary spring is a d&d 160/260(I think, its real close to that if I am off)

Secondary is button clutch, custom ground 30/36 helix with a silver blue polaris spring set at second notch.

There isn't really any other springs that have a higher engagement with a low finish rate, so I can't just respring it and dropping wieght isnt an option either without dropping boost and thats not an option.

So, this is not an off the shelf been there 100 times kinda setup.

Not looking to change a bunch of other stuff trying to solve a minor problem, it engages way too low because of the heavy wieghts and with the turbo the motor has no torque down that low so it makes it sluggish at engagement.

definitely open to ideas, but really just want info on notches.

 

[milehighassassin]

I got you, I was just trying to see what you were accomplishing exactly.


To me it seems that messing with the notches won't correct your problem.

Maybe do you have the D&D Yellow? 160/290

How about trying a D&D Green, 195/295?

http://www.ddracing.com/rates.htm

Primary Springs​

• Use to control engagement
• Higher numbers = stiffer spring
• Higher first number = higher engagement
• Higher numbers generally = more weight needed
• Too high last number = incomplete shift
• Too low last number = too quick shift

Primary Clutch​

• Use to control RPM’s via weights
• Use to control engagement via spring
• If hotter than secondary belt slipping more in primary

Flyweights​

• Use to control RPM’s – more weight = less RPM’s
• Heel (close to pin) weight affects beginning of shift (slow speeds)
• Toe weight affects end of shift (high speeds)
• More heel weight = better low speed (crawling)
• More toe weight = better high speed

Secondary Springs​

• Use to control backshift
• Softer spring = more up-shift = more MPH
• Stiffer spring = better backshift
• Stiffer spring keeps clutch in “lower gear” longer

Secondary Clutch​

• Is torque sensing
• Use to control Backshift
• Up shift = clutch opening =increasing speed = shifting up/out
• Backshift = clutch closing =decreasing speed = shifting down
• If hotter than primary belt slipping more in secondary

Helix​

• Use to control upshift
• Shallower angle (smaller number) = faster upshift and slower backshift

Really all the engagement notches will do is put more load on a spring, making it stiffer.


Read this post:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2412773&postcount=143

It is from a thread you started. I think it might help you.

Maybe changing where the weight is on your ramps/weights

 

[snowx99]

I may have a stock set of notched Polaris weights at home to check if you really want some sort of measurement, but the more critical piece is getting all the notches the same depth & in the same spot- ramp grinding fixture is a must.

More trial and error than anything. Put them in the jig, take a 1/16 off and see how that works. Keep progressing until you're happy with it.