so im running some lights on the 2 pin connector on the hood wire harness. the connector has red/yellow and brown/white wires and is protected by the 2a accessory mini-fuse located in the Velcro bag above the clutch cover. the fuse is to small to hold the load of the lights so the question is, is it safe to replace that fuse with a 10 or 15 amp fuse??? or is their a better place to get my power? thanks in advance...
electrical question??
- Thread starter sumtinwong
- Start date
You are going to turn the wire into a heating element. I would not do it.
that's my worry.... so does any one know where to pull more than 2 amps from that's safe ??? 2 amps is a supper small amount their hast to be somewhere even if I put my own inline fuse in it. or where to hook a 2ed line in with another 5 amp and split my load??
does any one know the amps that is safe to pull out of that loop??
does any one know the amps that is safe to pull out of that loop??
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sooo iv ben boggling my mind reading the electrical section in the book and found a RCA Accessory power two-pin connector located underneath the air box. the connector has a red/blue and a brown and is only powered when load shed relay is closed. the best I can tell this is a non fuse loop??? that only turns on when the rpm is above 1500 and the chassis voltage is greater than 12.8 VDC...I think? is this a suitable/stable place to draw power from? if so what size fuse is safe to put in line?
this relay runs-
1-high beam/LED array power
2-battery charge relay power {witch I don't have along with ES}
3-hand warmer power
4-thumb warmer power
5-and the optional 12V accessory RCA adapter {witch is the plug that I want to utilize for the lights}
any help or thoughts is appreciated!
this relay runs-
1-high beam/LED array power
2-battery charge relay power {witch I don't have along with ES}
3-hand warmer power
4-thumb warmer power
5-and the optional 12V accessory RCA adapter {witch is the plug that I want to utilize for the lights}
any help or thoughts is appreciated!
I have some experience with circuitry as its what I went to school for. Do you have schematic/ wiring diagram you can post?
But if that circuit is only on above 1500 rpms or 12.8 volts, is this going to do what you want?
Just thinking out loud, it would make sense to power what you're wanting from the battery charge circuit. That in theory would have to be more than a 2 amp load.
I know the 2 amp fuse you're talking about. I use that circuit to power a RSI dual USB converter.
But if that circuit is only on above 1500 rpms or 12.8 volts, is this going to do what you want?
Just thinking out loud, it would make sense to power what you're wanting from the battery charge circuit. That in theory would have to be more than a 2 amp load.
I know the 2 amp fuse you're talking about. I use that circuit to power a RSI dual USB converter.
thanks snowman I was starting to get worried that no one understood what I was saying or trying to accomplish!
ill try to post some schematic/ wiring diagram on the axis 800
even if it takes some throttle to have the lights come on it would be all right with me. the best I can understand is that circuit runs the bright lights so I don't think it would be to much of an issue... im slightly electronically challenged so I could be off in left field on what I think I understand!!! :}
ill try to post some schematic/ wiring diagram on the axis 800
even if it takes some throttle to have the lights come on it would be all right with me. the best I can understand is that circuit runs the bright lights so I don't think it would be to much of an issue... im slightly electronically challenged so I could be off in left field on what I think I understand!!! :}
If you do any more testing, test first with a smaller amp load.
How much power/amps is the light you want to run? I know the stator only puts out so many watts, was 400 watts on the pro ride... Not sure on axys.
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How much power/amps is the light you want to run? I know the stator only puts out so many watts, was 400 watts on the pro ride... Not sure on axys.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
sorry got busy working I will try to post the schematic/wiring diagram this weekend.
I believe its the same on the axys. tried to figure out how many watts the lights are drawing but couldn't find out. a 2 amp fuse lasts about 20 seconds a... 5 amp lasts about 2 or 3 mins. and a 7.5 held load for 5 or 6 min. and never blew. don't think its to much for the "system" {its the only accessory im trying to run} but for sure its to much for a 2 amp fuse
I believe its the same on the axys. tried to figure out how many watts the lights are drawing but couldn't find out. a 2 amp fuse lasts about 20 seconds a... 5 amp lasts about 2 or 3 mins. and a 7.5 held load for 5 or 6 min. and never blew. don't think its to much for the "system" {its the only accessory im trying to run} but for sure its to much for a 2 amp fuse
Why not just pull power from the battery? If you don't have electric start install the ES jumper and a battery. Run your own wires from the battery (sized and fused correctly). Polaris has way too many electrical gremlins on a stock sled...the last thing I would do is add a bigger draw to a poor system. Just my 2 cents
battery.. mount ... another handful of wires... and in the end a battery doesn't make its own power its still provided by the sled...X amount of amps/watts out X amount of amps/watts in... if it wasn't like this the battery would always be going dead and you would need to turn off the lights and let the battery charge. I am trying to pull power off that same loop that would normally charge the battery... am I missing something how does the battery help/make it safer??
If you want to calculate the numbers look up whats called Ohms Law. Its a simple chart on how to calculate your volts, amp, etc. Sound like you are right around the 5.5-7.5 amp draw range. That may be to much for that wiring... If it was 5 amp or less, I'd say maybe try it. Do it at your own risk.
