put koso egts on 2012 polaris 800 pro, stick seems to run very hot, getting over 1350 degrees averages 1220, kinda scared of the temps, have a 2011 polaris 800 pro with boon docker that runs a lot cooler than that and I was worried about the egt temps it got to.
EGT TEMP
- Thread starter sageacewest
- Start date
1200 pretty normal for wot and 1000 for midrange, but 1350 is pretty hot, thats about the melting point of aluminum. is everything stock? if your real worried about it hold the throttle at certain rpm for around 10 seconds and kill the motor without changing throttle position till the sled stops then read your plugs. work your way up to 30 seconds to get a more accurate reading
EGT report numbers you see on the screen have absolutely nothing to do with the melting point of aluminum..the numbers are loosely associated to temperature but it's the measurement of the gasses not the actual metallic parts. The gasses are consistent to the duration of an event at RPM and that gives us a measuring device. You have to experience the known reports along with several other methods of diagnosing state of tune in order to get use from EGT.
Those reports are a calculation of an electronic report pulse in voltage that an engineer wrote in conversion to numbers to help you have a reference.
You have to test and read your plugs at varying RPM's with a minimum duration to associate a "state of tune" to each reported number. If you do not know how or what a plug read looks like you are also wasting your time here.....you need to tie in the report reads to sight sound and vehicle response to build the knowledge of what those numbers mean on your sled and your sled ONLY.
Everything you need to know about a two stroke's state of tune is written onto a plug. The plug is like a chalkboard in that the report is constantly changing right until you kill the heat to it. That is why you need to shut things completely off right at the point where you need the info or you get misled by activity beyond that point. It doesn't take very long at higher RPM's to change your burn...more so at very low R's but still a factor. That is why you have to test right to the RPM and normally a good several seconds at each stage to insure consistent accurate reports. Once you get your numbers and understand how each number relates to your state of tune at that RPM and duration than you can use that instrument as your accurate gauge of what is going on in there. Remember engine loads and duration of the event are critical...IE a five second pull versus a fifteen second pull up a hill can have drastically different results...and you need to know those if you are tuning for critical high performance and getting everything out of that state of tune.
to read a plug you need a light and magnifying device...pin light and jewelers 10X loop works great...just looking down a plug with the naked eye and considering dryness and ring tone isn't even remotely close. Anytime you see en EXPERT look at a plug and make a statement about the tune like this RUN AWAY and find a new expert to help you....
Those reports are a calculation of an electronic report pulse in voltage that an engineer wrote in conversion to numbers to help you have a reference.
You have to test and read your plugs at varying RPM's with a minimum duration to associate a "state of tune" to each reported number. If you do not know how or what a plug read looks like you are also wasting your time here.....you need to tie in the report reads to sight sound and vehicle response to build the knowledge of what those numbers mean on your sled and your sled ONLY.
Everything you need to know about a two stroke's state of tune is written onto a plug. The plug is like a chalkboard in that the report is constantly changing right until you kill the heat to it. That is why you need to shut things completely off right at the point where you need the info or you get misled by activity beyond that point. It doesn't take very long at higher RPM's to change your burn...more so at very low R's but still a factor. That is why you have to test right to the RPM and normally a good several seconds at each stage to insure consistent accurate reports. Once you get your numbers and understand how each number relates to your state of tune at that RPM and duration than you can use that instrument as your accurate gauge of what is going on in there. Remember engine loads and duration of the event are critical...IE a five second pull versus a fifteen second pull up a hill can have drastically different results...and you need to know those if you are tuning for critical high performance and getting everything out of that state of tune.
to read a plug you need a light and magnifying device...pin light and jewelers 10X loop works great...just looking down a plug with the naked eye and considering dryness and ring tone isn't even remotely close. Anytime you see en EXPERT look at a plug and make a statement about the tune like this RUN AWAY and find a new expert to help you....
Were the highest temps just in the midrange while under low loads ?
I've seen 1470 on my 600 at 1/4 throttle and 6000 rpm.
The plugs were definetely too gray but has never melted down, probably because the coolant system was able to keep the pistons cool enough under the light load.
egt temps
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
Now you have a baseline.....
G
GREICO1
Well-known member
Where are the probes located? EGT's can be an arbitrary number and should only be used as a reference. A probe that is placed 1/2 inch further downstream, or upstream can read quite a bit different, dependant upon where they are in the flame. Scavenging of exhaust, octane, and many other factors will affect the number you see. Make sure you are tuned correctly, then look at the EGT as a reference to indicate a lean condition, bad gas, or otherwise.
egt probe distance
The instructions say 4 to 6" from piston skirt, I have them just before Y pipe turns into one tube to get in range.
The instructions say 4 to 6" from piston skirt, I have them just before Y pipe turns into one tube to get in range.
Did you guys even read my post? It does not matter where you put the probes in the extent that you guys are referencing! It also does not matter what number some other person saw on their sled irregardless of the EGT brand or sled model. That is not how these things work! ONCE AGAIN IN SIMPLE TERMS:
Your EGT is simply a monitoring device measuring a response as it passes the sensor. What it tells you is the important info but JUST as I posted it only gives you a number. What the number means and WHEN in the duration of the event is critical and you have to figure that out for your system. The only way to figure that out is to TEST and note your experience. Then you use your EGT instrument as a monitoring or tuning device in the case you run a fuel control programmer or a more extensive system control device.
Your EGT is simply a monitoring device measuring a response as it passes the sensor. What it tells you is the important info but JUST as I posted it only gives you a number. What the number means and WHEN in the duration of the event is critical and you have to figure that out for your system. The only way to figure that out is to TEST and note your experience. Then you use your EGT instrument as a monitoring or tuning device in the case you run a fuel control programmer or a more extensive system control device.
