ECU mappings

[thewwkayaker]

What have people found works well for mapping on their snowbike? I'm on a yz but I suspect mappings might be similar.

One thread I read said all lean and late (-4 fuel, +4 ignition).

I wonder if the temps matter as well - (really cold - esp when you start vs warmer days or when the bike is at temp) and if you'd switch mapping during a ride as temps (bike or outdoors) changes?

 

[byeatts]

Just order from c3 they have the mapping dialed

 

[thewwkayaker]

Thanx but not really interested in spending that much $ on a mapping. I'm not looking for max power. More interested in cold starting.

 

[needpowder]

Thanx but not really interested in spending that much $ on a mapping. I'm not looking for max power. More interested in cold starting.

I will answer what I can but then I’m gonna jack this thread because I am having trouble starting a new one on my busted ass iPhone 12 mini. I have found that for cold starting a little bit of extra fuel down low helped. We are talking about your 14YZ correct? I have a pr2/vortex ignition sitting around somewhere which should fit that year that came off my 17 YZ but does not fit my 23. I could part with it pretty easily because it is worthless to me. It is easy to take in and get retuned,,, but the snowbike on it is decent. Not sure how much different the 17s are from your bike though.
Now to jack the thread. I just installed a velocity stack intake on my 23YZ and I’m curious what everybody else is doing for mapping on a stock bike. Rode it last season with stock intake and hi flow air filter covered with outer wears. Clogged a lot less than my 17 that’s for sure. Switched the map to hard hitting on day one and never looked back. Ran decent, and II never messed with it. Sounds like people are having luck removing ignition timing? Anybody have a similar set up and a good place to start with the stock ECU?. I am at 8K to about 10.5 k elevation (ft obviously) stock engine. Only modifications are to make it snow Savy Thanks fellas.
Oh yeah. Install was not plug and play. Had to cut quite a bit of my air box out to make the angle fit correctly. All the videos for installation show earlier bikes. Maybe they have an updated version for the newer Yammy’s but I have also heard they are all the same. I should have taken some pictures. If I ever pull it out, I will.

 

[thewwkayaker]

I will answer what I can but then I’m gonna jack this thread because I am having trouble starting a new one on my busted ass iPhone 12 mini. I have found that for cold starting a little bit of extra fuel down low helped. We are talking about your 14YZ correct? I have a pr2/vortex ignition sitting around somewhere which should fit that year that came off my 17 YZ but does not fit my 23. I could part with it pretty easily because it is worthless to me. It is easy to take in and get retuned,,, but the snowbike on it is decent. Not sure how much different the 17s are from your bike though.
Now to jack the thread. I just installed a velocity stack intake on my 23YZ and I’m curious what everybody else is doing for mapping on a stock bike. Rode it last season with stock intake and hi flow air filter covered with outer wears. Clogged a lot less than my 17 that’s for sure. Switched the map to hard hitting on day one and never looked back. Ran decent, and II never messed with it. Sounds like people are having luck removing ignition timing? Anybody have a similar set up and a good place to start with the stock ECU?. I am at 8K to about 10.5 k elevation (ft obviously) stock engine. Only modifications are to make it snow Savy Thanks fellas.
Oh yeah. Install was not plug and play. Had to cut quite a bit of my air box out to make the angle fit correctly. All the videos for installation show earlier bikes. Maybe they have an updated version for the newer Yammy’s but I have also heard they are all the same. I should have taken some pictures. If I ever pull it out, I will.

I'm picking up a (brand new) 2022 yzf soon (but yes currently I have a '14 yzf) and was thinking if I could set up mapping on the ECU to help with cold starts - I mean really cold starts. Not looking at spending a lot of $$ at this point on the issue. I have a few options people have provided - but I've tested none of them yet. I will soon be doing some ski hut trips where I use the bike to get close to a hut, skin the rest of the way and leave the bike for 4 days then return to it and I need it to start so I can get back to the truck (one "sled in" is 25km and the other is 34km so I really want to be able to start the bike again after sitting in the snow about 1500m+ awaiting my return).

I will be carrying a jump start battery (which I will take with me to the hut), I'll have a mini torch I can use on the oil pan area of the bike if necessary, I might also carry a cordless heat gun but the battery is pretty heavy and I have to gear all my sleeping/food/etc for the hut about 5km and 600m, and I will be with others who will be on sleds. Just thinking maybe there is a good ECU mapping for cold starts that people have tried rather than buying a whole new ECU for a brand new bike I'll be picking up.

As to your problem - well that's well beyond my newbie understanding but hopefully others will have better insight.

 

[dooman92]

kayaker, I don't recall if I mentioned prior but, if you have sleds available you can tow to start it. I had to do it before I installed the kicker on my '17. seems like it was in 3rd gear.

 

[byeatts]

The snow specific if mapped correctly will help cold start but most of all pull higher RPM,s and torque

 

[thewwkayaker]

kayaker, I don't recall if I mentioned prior but, if you have sleds available you can tow to start it. I had to do it before I installed the kicker on my '17. seems like it was in 3rd gear.

I'd assume if it won't start with the starter (assuming power for the starter) that a tow start won't help either unless you just need to keep at it hoping it will eventually fire.

 

[thewwkayaker]

The snow specific if mapped correctly will help cold start but most of all pull higher RPM,s and torque

I wonder if some simple changes with the yamaha mapping would work for the cold starts without having to resort to a new ecu

 

[needpowder]

I wonder if some simple changes with the yamaha mapping would work for the cold starts without having to resort to a new ecu

I bet you could do something. I feel like a little extra fuel down low has helped my bike, but that was a while ago and it might have been in my head. Just brainstorming here, but what about trading your bike with one of your buddies who has a sled for those couple trips. You’d be able to carry in way more stuff and have a way more comfortable trail ride to the hut on a sled plus he would probably get a kick out of your 22.

 

[needpowder]

Also, like I mentioned, sticking your torch inside an aluminum tube underneath your bike, so there’s no open flame, but you have the heat was thinking possibly your shovel handle? Might totally ruin your shovel handle but might also work.

 

[POLZIN]

I will answer what I can but then I’m gonna jack this thread because I am having trouble starting a new one on my busted ass iPhone 12 mini. I have found that for cold starting a little bit of extra fuel down low helped. We are talking about your 14YZ correct? I have a pr2/vortex ignition sitting around somewhere which should fit that year that came off my 17 YZ but does not fit my 23. I could part with it pretty easily because it is worthless to me. It is easy to take in and get retuned,,, but the snowbike on it is decent. Not sure how much different the 17s are from your bike though.
Now to jack the thread. I just installed a velocity stack intake on my 23YZ and I’m curious what everybody else is doing for mapping on a stock bike. Rode it last season with stock intake and hi flow air filter covered with outer wears. Clogged a lot less than my 17 that’s for sure. Switched the map to hard hitting on day one and never looked back. Ran decent, and II never messed with it. Sounds like people are having luck removing ignition timing? Anybody have a similar set up and a good place to start with the stock ECU?. I am at 8K to about 10.5 k elevation (ft obviously) stock engine. Only modifications are to make it snow Savy Thanks fellas.
Oh yeah. Install was not plug and play. Had to cut quite a bit of my air box out to make the angle fit correctly. All the videos for installation show earlier bikes. Maybe they have an updated version for the newer Yammy’s but I have also heard they are all the same. I should have taken some pictures. If I ever pull it out, I will.

Sorry to high jack this thread even more but I’d be interested in that ECU if he’s not. I’ve been looking for one for my 16

 

[dooman92]

I'd assume if it won't start with the starter (assuming power for the starter) that a tow start won't help either unless you just need to keep at it hoping it will eventually fire.

Kayaker, actually it will start with a tow better than cranking. When cranking, battery voltage will be lowered resulting in less current for the fuel injector and the coil. If you get the right gear and traction, the engine will spin as fast or faster when towed than with the button. Increased spin/rpm increases compression and heat in the cylinder both beneficial for cold starts. Try 3rd gear, pull clutch in, start pull get momentum start releasing clutch if track slides shift up until engine spins. Shift down if it spins too slow.

 

[thewwkayaker]

I bet you could do something. I feel like a little extra fuel down low has helped my bike, but that was a while ago and it might have been in my head. Just brainstorming here, but what about trading your bike with one of your buddies who has a sled for those couple trips. You’d be able to carry in way more stuff and have a way more comfortable trail ride to the hut on a sled plus he would probably get a kick out of your 22.

My buddies who have sleds will be on the trip so they will need them. Also I have never ridden a sled and from what I've seen they are harder to ride unless it's a groomed road (which this won't be). If I can't carry my gear on my back on the bike then it will be even harder when I'm skinning with the same gear so not too worried about how much I can carry (it has to fit in my pack). I already built my ski rack and tested it for the bike so that's all good. It's only a (perhaps me just being paranoid) concern that when I return to the bike it won't start after sitting in the cold snow for so long. It might be fine or my other possible solutions may work (I also carry a can of car starter fluid). I was thinking I'd take my bike cover as well (it folds up small) to cover the bike while I'm gone and it might help me get it warmed up - maybe even using the sleds exhaust piped in. But thanx for the ideas

 

[thewwkayaker]

Kayaker, actually it will start with a tow better than cranking. When cranking, battery voltage will be lowered resulting in less current for the fuel injector and the coil. If you get the right gear and traction, the engine will spin as fast or faster when towed than with the button. Increased spin/rpm increases compression and heat in the cylinder both beneficial for cold starts. Try 3rd gear, pull clutch in, start pull get momentum start releasing clutch if track slides shift up until engine spins. Shift down if it spins too slow.

Good idea - I'll make sure I have something to be towed with although my buddies have tow straps as well for their own needs. Can't hurt for sure although I'd need to be on something well packed I'd think and hopefully somewhat flat.

I'm just wanting a bag of tricks to use in case it won't start. It might be a warmer day, in the sun, and we wouldn't arrive until mid day I'd guess so might be more than warm enough to not be an issue.

I wonder why cars don't have this problem? Sleds are often 2 stroke and so they start easier but cars aren't. I'll be using 0W-40 oil to help as well.

Anyway thanx for the ideas

 

[needpowder]

Good idea - I'll make sure I have something to be towed with although my buddies have tow straps as well for their own needs. Can't hurt for sure although I'd need to be on something well packed I'd think and hopefully somewhat flat.

I'm just wanting a bag of tricks to use in case it won't start. It might be a warmer day, in the sun, and we wouldn't arrive until mid day I'd guess so might be more than warm enough to not be an issue.

I wonder why cars don't have this problem? Sleds are often 2 stroke and so they start easier but cars aren't. I'll be using 0W-40 oil to help as well.

Anyway thanx for the ideas

Because cars have big overkill lead acid batteries. You could go the same route. I’m not really convinced it’s the oil or the cold engine that is keeping it from starting. That just slows down how fast the engine can turn over with these silly little high-tech batteries that do not work in the cold.
if you have a place to tow the bike with a sled, I’m almost 100% sure that it will start lthat way also.

 

[thewwkayaker]

Because cars have big overkill lead acid batteries. You could go the same route. I’m not really convinced it’s the oil or the cold engine that is keeping it from starting. That just slows down how fast the engine can turn over with these silly little high-tech batteries that do not work in the cold.
if you have a place to tow the bike with a sled, I’m almost 100% sure that it will start lthat way also.

That's really odd that lead acid batteries would work better because they lose effectiveness in the cold while lithium batteries lose very little effectiveness. Now the cold cranking amps might be higher but if the battery gives you 95-98% efficiency then the cranking should remain good.

I would think the issue is vapour levels are lower at low temps making it harder to start. Perhaps a 94 octane might be better in really cold conditions? Certainly less water would be in the fuel at a 94 octane.

The friction of a tow start might warm things up though

 

[needpowder]

That's really odd that lead acid batteries would work better because they lose effectiveness in the cold while lithium batteries lose very little effectiveness. Now the cold cranking amps might be higher but if the battery gives you 95-98% efficiency then the cranking should remain good.

I would think the issue is vapour levels are lower at low temps making it harder to start. Perhaps a 94 octane might be better in really cold conditions? Certainly less water would be in the fuel at a 94 octane.

The friction of a tow start might warm things up

You lost me there, pal. Vapor levels? All I know is that lithium ion batteries isuck in the cold. If they were 98% as effective in the cold, we wouldn’t have any problems. Sure is a bummer because I would love to be snow biking a stark varg

 

[needpowder]

I re-read and I guess you’re talking about the gasoline. Doesn’t higher octane gas burn colder? I don’t know. Doesn’t matter. Gas is definitely not the problem.

 

[thewwkayaker]

I re-read and I guess you’re talking about the gasoline. Doesn’t higher octane gas burn colder? I don’t know. Doesn’t matter. Gas is definitely not the problem.

You lost me there, pal. Vapor levels? All I know is that lithium ion batteries isuck in the cold. If they were 98% as effective in the cold, we wouldn’t have any problems. Sure is a bummer because I would love to be snow biking a stark varg

See this report on Lithium batteries - discusses cold https://www.power-sonic.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Lithium-Vs-lead-acid.pdf