Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone can tell me what software is needed to recurve the ECM's on skidoo's??
Thanks!!
Jake
Thanks!!
Jake
ECM Recurve Software
- Thread starter triple7
- Start date
Jake, the only way I know is being an authorized Ski-Doo dealer and having the Ski-Doo programer. I'm sure if you were super savy you could get into it.
Dave
Dave
Ya, I know the dealers can do some but I have a pretty cool dealer and he cant do a full recurve. The guys I had do mine the first time are cheap enough that I wouldnt worry about doing it in house except the turn around time is horrible and we need the ability to alter these things multiple times to get it just right for turbos.
There has to be a software program that makes it possible, not from skidoo. Dmax did mine, and they are not authorized skidoo dealers.
There has to be a software program that makes it possible, not from skidoo. Dmax did mine, and they are not authorized skidoo dealers.
Jake,
Why are you thinking the ecm needs reprogammed when boosted? Are you looking for less timing, more heat to run more boost = more power?
Dave
Why are you thinking the ecm needs reprogammed when boosted? Are you looking for less timing, more heat to run more boost = more power?
Dave
Well, I am sure that my current curve has too much timing in the mid and I would like to deal with that myself rather than have to send it off. But I would like the ability to set up a single curve in everyones turbo that is similar to mine in that it opens the exhaust valves way ealier and helps the motor build a bunch more mid range. It is also going to be nice to have a raised rev limiter for a cushion if you turn the boost up and you are slightly under clutched. Mostly why I need the ability to adjust the ecm though is because the current XP ecm uses a bunch of different curves. And they are elevation, water temp, air temp, and knock sensor dependent just to name a few. So what happens is you get a lack of consistency. For example, if the water temp gets a little too warm, timing is rapidly pulled out. If the knock sensor picks up even a light rattle, it rapidly drops timing. All this is great for a stock consumer sled where the rider isnt paying any attention to what the motor is doing but on our hotrods all it does it set up failure. It makes it harder to draw the tuning line right to the edge and you are just asking to tumble out of a chute because water temp crept to 111 instead of 110 and you went from 8 degrees of timing at 8200 to 6 so you lost 50 horsepower under boost. I dont want inconsistency. I trust myself to 'feel' what the motor is doing. I have gauges and an ear for it so I want the damn thing to do the same timing curve at every elevation, every water temp, and I want to the knock sensor to tell me if its rattling but not dump a ton of power when it does.
I know some people will say that they want the safetys but the problem is you have an air temp sensor that is disabled with the turbo, anything close to the stock water system cannot keep an extra 100 horsepower cooled to the water temp needed for the best timing curve in the ecm either.
I want a good, strong curve that is dead consistent or I will have broken pieces all over the snow. I think most guys that want a turbo will see the logic in this as well. Not to mention the fact that pressure speeds up the flame front so common sense would tell me that the ecm curves offered from the factory will not be what a turbo motor would like best. In fact, I think that by building a safe but strong curve that is used no matter the external influences, we can build more power more consistently and it should be more reliable.
JMO
Jake
I know some people will say that they want the safetys but the problem is you have an air temp sensor that is disabled with the turbo, anything close to the stock water system cannot keep an extra 100 horsepower cooled to the water temp needed for the best timing curve in the ecm either.
I want a good, strong curve that is dead consistent or I will have broken pieces all over the snow. I think most guys that want a turbo will see the logic in this as well. Not to mention the fact that pressure speeds up the flame front so common sense would tell me that the ecm curves offered from the factory will not be what a turbo motor would like best. In fact, I think that by building a safe but strong curve that is used no matter the external influences, we can build more power more consistently and it should be more reliable.
JMO
Jake
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P
portgrinder
Well-known member
Probably easier to build something that 'modifys' the input and output signals that reprogram the whole thing. Find an egghead electrical engineer type buddy if you have one.
Jake,
Raising the rev limiter is something I also thought of, that on the turboed XP's you might want. Opening the RAVE valves sooner would be ok if you could get them to seal enough and still operate
. We mod the valve so it is wide open all the time. We found that at idle the valves were almost all the way open. This was not with the RAVE 3D though, but we still felt we had to do the mod to keep things sealed and from blowing the bellows off. We have tried it all, nothing works as of yet. We might have a nice new billet block off plate available soon to keep the valve sealed and secure for sure. I looked at one on friday and I fell it had a slight leak. I will be looking into this further.
I know all the different timing curves that the boxes have and that they could use if needed. If I understand the box corectlly it will try different curves to try to "fix" itself before sending any alarm codes to the dash. I have tried alot of different things and never had a light on the dash show up. Not saying some timing wasn't adjusted automaticlly, but I never felt it. I think some will probably have to change out the thermostat housing to the ET housing and cool it down some, but that's the only issue I see with the stock box.
Dave Halverson
Raising the rev limiter is something I also thought of, that on the turboed XP's you might want. Opening the RAVE valves sooner would be ok if you could get them to seal enough and still operate
. We mod the valve so it is wide open all the time. We found that at idle the valves were almost all the way open. This was not with the RAVE 3D though, but we still felt we had to do the mod to keep things sealed and from blowing the bellows off. We have tried it all, nothing works as of yet. We might have a nice new billet block off plate available soon to keep the valve sealed and secure for sure. I looked at one on friday and I fell it had a slight leak. I will be looking into this further.I know all the different timing curves that the boxes have and that they could use if needed. If I understand the box corectlly it will try different curves to try to "fix" itself before sending any alarm codes to the dash. I have tried alot of different things and never had a light on the dash show up. Not saying some timing wasn't adjusted automaticlly, but I never felt it. I think some will probably have to change out the thermostat housing to the ET housing and cool it down some, but that's the only issue I see with the stock box.
Dave Halverson
Thats good. Then I may be wasting my time. I was wondering about the exhaust valve thing. I was hoping to make them work but dad did already come up with a scheme to pitch em and seal it up.
The cooling can be cured with ET housing...not sure to what output. Maybe all the motor is capable of. I have a different setup that will work well for me.
The limiter is a must in my opinion.
Anyway, I think I have the software figured out. We will see. I have a couple of electrical genius types that I can get ahold of it I run into issues. Should be fun at the very least
The cooling can be cured with ET housing...not sure to what output. Maybe all the motor is capable of. I have a different setup that will work well for me.
The limiter is a must in my opinion.
Anyway, I think I have the software figured out. We will see. I have a couple of electrical genius types that I can get ahold of it I run into issues. Should be fun at the very least
But this is on a Rev correct?? I thought about the MSD but I think I will save that for the full tilt 950 turbo...
Jake, I can tell you that even Boss and Warnert do NOT have the ability to recurve at all !!
We can send them to wisconsin or valcourt.
Valcort will get it out in a day 2 at the most, Wiscinsin has in the past been a crap at best !
That should change with the changing of the gaurd ( read Greg Goodwin ).
If I were in your shoes,, I would get a harness , and complete ignition from one of the xp snocrossers,, with that there is no issue on recurving , the race shop does not like to work with consumer boxs as the resale of sled can cause issues after issues..
the race/440 ignition is a direct bolt in with no hassles.
you need ALL components..
pm me if you cant find one.
Many of the lesser equippted teams thought the ecm was a problem on the mods and swapt to other more usless igntions..
there should be a few out your way as THAT area and its builder had issue with them...
This way all of your periferals are plugins,,ie, gauges, warmers etc.
Gus
We can send them to wisconsin or valcourt.
Valcort will get it out in a day 2 at the most, Wiscinsin has in the past been a crap at best !
That should change with the changing of the gaurd ( read Greg Goodwin ).
If I were in your shoes,, I would get a harness , and complete ignition from one of the xp snocrossers,, with that there is no issue on recurving , the race shop does not like to work with consumer boxs as the resale of sled can cause issues after issues..
the race/440 ignition is a direct bolt in with no hassles.
you need ALL components..
pm me if you cant find one.
Many of the lesser equippted teams thought the ecm was a problem on the mods and swapt to other more usless igntions..
there should be a few out your way as THAT area and its builder had issue with them...
This way all of your periferals are plugins,,ie, gauges, warmers etc.
Gus
Ok thanks for the info! Gus, if I cant make this setup work I will give you a ring and see if you have a lead on a race harness. I would like to avoid the cost of that but I will do what it takes to get complete control over this thing. I like to have the ability to adjust every part of my hotrods...
Thanks boys
Jake
Thanks boys
Jake
Just don't let all your secrets out on that setup Gus.
Dave
.Dave
I think it's Jeff Goodwin. Greg is still running Goodwin Performance, last time I checked .
