Got my new rails.
Is it easier to remove the entire rear skid assembly or to replace one rail at a time on the sled?
Is it easier to remove the entire rear skid assembly or to replace one rail at a time on the sled?
Easiest way to change rails?
- Thread starter Quicksand
- Start date
Skid out for sure.
X
xc6rider
Well-known member
Definitely!
Skid out and on a flat surface, you want both rails flat on the surface when you are done torquing it all up. Which may take some trial and error, shim opposite corners and clamp to surface. That way when it is unclamped and relaxed after torquing, both rails are completely flat and parallel with each other.
There is no way to ensure this, with the skid in the sled.
There is no way to ensure this, with the skid in the sled.
Also a good time to remove, clean, and grease all the shafts. The grease gun alone won't do it.
The hardest part i had was getting everything apart. Use air tools and run the bolts one at a time in and out to losen the loctite. Other wise the shafts will just spin. Small amounts of heat with a butane torch can also be helpfull.
Ya pulling the skid was definatly the way to go. Thanks
Nice! Who makes them Ice Age? What was the benifit of the swap? Thank you
Ya pulling the skid was definatly the way to go. Thanks
Ya these are IgeAge.
Benefit is these ones aren't bent all to hell. lol
If anyone is looking for rails, IgeAge gets my vote. Decent price ($700 with shipping and customs fees to Canada)
Only hiccup was my rail stiffeners are on "backorder" (so they say) which no one decided to tell me until I found out when I opened the box and they weren't in there.
Other than that, they're nice rails and quick shipping.
Benefit is these ones aren't bent all to hell. lol
If anyone is looking for rails, IgeAge gets my vote. Decent price ($700 with shipping and customs fees to Canada)
Only hiccup was my rail stiffeners are on "backorder" (so they say) which no one decided to tell me until I found out when I opened the box and they weren't in there.
Other than that, they're nice rails and quick shipping.
Question for you on the IA rails... We're they per drilled for scratchers and will the stock/Holz scratchers bolt right on with existing holes or did you have to go with their scratchers..? I realize a person could drill their own holes but I'm not really crazy about drilling my own holes into $700 rails.
Thanks,
-John
Pre drilled. Same as stock location.
Mine were 350 plus shipping. And pow coat $60
Yeah my stockers broke at the front torque arm mount.
Ice age min. 8" wheel
Can order for 9 or 10
Mine were 350 plus shipping. And pow coat $60
Yeah my stockers broke at the front torque arm mount.
Ice age min. 8" wheel
Can order for 9 or 10
Last edited:
Yes they're pre-drilled for Stock scratchers. Also pre-drilled for The stock front bogey wheel/mount
But I did have to drill one of the holes out on each rail to a bigger size to fit the stock cross shaft in the rear.
Went with the 8" plastic wheel cause they were cheap ($35ea.) and i wanted black anyways, they dont make a plastic wheel in 9" didn't see a 10" option but I'm sure they would built it if you wanted. (stock wheels are 7 1/4")
But I did have to drill one of the holes out on each rail to a bigger size to fit the stock cross shaft in the rear.
Went with the 8" plastic wheel cause they were cheap ($35ea.) and i wanted black anyways, they dont make a plastic wheel in 9" didn't see a 10" option but I'm sure they would built it if you wanted. (stock wheels are 7 1/4")
Thanks for the info! Last question, do the IceAge rails run the stock profile Polaris hyfax?
-John
They come with hyfax included from IceAge
I didn't compare them side by side.
I didn't compare them side by side.
Thanks. IceAge did confirm that they are the same profile as the OEM Polaris hyfax. I wanted to know because I was curious if a person could run the OEM white colored hyfax if so desired. In short, the answer is yes.
Thanks,
-John
Im replacing my rails right now. And I think I'm running into the issue you are talking about. Are you talking about the bar that is about 8" in front of the rear axle? My rails are not drilled for the bolts. Are they supposed to have the correct bar and bolts and they didnt put it in the box? They didnt tell me **** about that.
U
ulost
Member
Yes you do have to drill out the rear hole approximately 8'' from the rear axle. The existing hole is too small diameter. I drilled one size bigger than the bolt, I do believe 13/32. Other than that, everything is same as OEM.
Thats what I ended up doing. That and I replaced all the bolts with allen head grade 8.8 so its a little easier to take apart this summer for paint and powder coating. Good right up. Thanks
On a sidenote don't get your rails Powdercoated.
Half a season and they are bent noodles.
Half a season and they are bent noodles.
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