And so it begins.... My E start is not working right. Most of the time it is just dead. Turn the key and nothing. Sometimes it works perfect. I don't have time to get it in the shop before I leave for WY tomorrow. Any ideas on what to check?
E start problem on 13 Pro. Help!
- Thread starter Matte Murder
- Start date
Issue with the track on my 13.
So first ride on my 13 Pro and there is something going on with the track. We were riding in really deep wet snow. Michelle set me up with a 12 shaft and 7 tooth Avid drivers in case I wanted to run a 3" later. There is some awful noise coming from the track. Seems like it's binding up. It REALLY seems like there is a big ice ball behind the drivers but before the top wheels that is binding on the tunnel. It gets really grabby especially going down hill. It also felt like the ice ball was breaking up at times and when it did the track ratcheted a little. Track is tight. It wasn't really that cold on the day we rode so I was surprised that ice seemed to be forming there. Any ideas?
So first ride on my 13 Pro and there is something going on with the track. We were riding in really deep wet snow. Michelle set me up with a 12 shaft and 7 tooth Avid drivers in case I wanted to run a 3" later. There is some awful noise coming from the track. Seems like it's binding up. It REALLY seems like there is a big ice ball behind the drivers but before the top wheels that is binding on the tunnel. It gets really grabby especially going down hill. It also felt like the ice ball was breaking up at times and when it did the track ratcheted a little. Track is tight. It wasn't really that cold on the day we rode so I was surprised that ice seemed to be forming there. Any ideas?
First off....7 tooth drivers for the 3" paddle all of those are 3" pitch... those are a diff pitch than the stock track (2.86" pitch)... I could see that they would bind up.
Now... If you have the 2.86 pitch drivers..
Also... 7 tooth drivers bring the inside of the track at the top closer to the top of the front swing arm of the rear-suspension...
1) Is that dragging on there?
2) What track tension are you running and what method did you use to set it?
3) Is the track centered in the tunnel?
Now... If you have the 2.86 pitch drivers..
Also... 7 tooth drivers bring the inside of the track at the top closer to the top of the front swing arm of the rear-suspension...
1) Is that dragging on there?
2) What track tension are you running and what method did you use to set it?
3) Is the track centered in the tunnel?
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For your e-start... Did you put on an aftermarket bumper and disturb the ground wire cluster or is that loose.
Is the ground wire from the battery to the chassis loose... To the starter solenoid?
All battery wires are tight ... also on the starter?
Is the connector for the ES sub harness clicked in firmly?
Is the battery electrolite level full?
Does it show a full charge.
Have you had your hood off and the ignition switch connector is loose?
What happens when it is dead and you jump start it?
Is the ground wire from the battery to the chassis loose... To the starter solenoid?
All battery wires are tight ... also on the starter?
Is the connector for the ES sub harness clicked in firmly?
Is the battery electrolite level full?
Does it show a full charge.
Have you had your hood off and the ignition switch connector is loose?
What happens when it is dead and you jump start it?
The e-start sounds like a ground problem. I would jiggle the ground cables to see if that helps when it seems dead.
I know you are saying that your track is tight, but with the smaller drivers it could be folding up a little, especially down hill.
SD
I know you are saying that your track is tight, but with the smaller drivers it could be folding up a little, especially down hill.
SD
I checked all the easy stuff. All the wires appear tight, had the hood off last night so put my hands on every wire and connection that could be a problem. When it starts it really starts. When it doesn't start there is nothing. No click or clicking at all. I will check battery voltage but I doubt the battery is losing charge then regaining it randomly. Thanks for the ideas. Michelle at OTS set me up with the 12 shaft and asked me "do you want to go with 7 tooth drivers so if you ever want to run a 3" track you can?" So the 7 tooth just gear me down a little and thats it? Kenny(super guy) at OTS set up the sled so I assume he hit the track tension right for the first ride. Sure feels tighter than I would set it. I looked at the track and tunnel yesterday too an it's not rubbing anywhere. ???
I don't think the battery is your problem. MH had some good ideas on wires to check. If your battery was low, you would hear clicking. If it has no sound (dead), but then works great once in awhile, that is normally a bad connection. Did you have someone hold the key switch to start, while you moved wires around? I don't think it would help, but did you try to jump it?
The smaller drivers will gear you down quite a bit. Using smaller drivers will also give you a steeper approach angle, making it a little harder to get on top of the snow. I would not use smaller drivers, unless I really needed to for clearance issues (jmho).
SD
The smaller drivers will gear you down quite a bit. Using smaller drivers will also give you a steeper approach angle, making it a little harder to get on top of the snow. I would not use smaller drivers, unless I really needed to for clearance issues (jmho).
SD
So I fingered it out. First day in a Dan Adams clinic and after about 2 hours I get really frustrated that the e start isn't working. Must have started my machine 25-30 times already. So I pull off the side panel, the sun is out and throwing a lot of light in there. Start pulling on wires again and tracing every one. There is a small black rectangular box right under the bigger rounded box where the big red battery cable connects(I know I'm an idiot, should know the names of those part but I'm mechanically declined). On both ends of the box are spade connectors. The connector is broken off on one end and ty wrapped on to the screw holding the broken end to the box. So what the Polaris assembly guy did was break the connector on install, and instead of reaching in to the huge box of little black boxes right by his side., he just Ty wrapped his FU together to get it out the door. THANKS POLARIS, YOU ARE COMMITTED TO A QUALITY PRODUCT. I did get it working by just tightening the Ty wrap. Love the e start. Best 10lbs(with a LW battery on the sled. So now I get to take my sled in for service and lose it for a week in the middle of riding season unless I want to pay for that part which if its under $50 I will do. I hate Polaris more everyday.
Matte...
Post up some pics of your install... LW battery and all!
I'd look to the dealer and have them remedy that on THEIR dime (not warranty), That should have showed up on the PDI even if they didn't install the battery.
I believe that they install the battery in the sled and related wires.
Who installed your LW battery??
The "little rectangluar box" you refer to sounds like the circuit breaker..
Does it have a Red wire on one post and red/dark-green on the other?
This is a 12 amp breaker, the ones at NAPA or trailer supply stores are 10 or 15 amp and usually have stud/nut terminals.
The Polaris part is # 2411592 about $15 (#9 in dwg)
Does it look like this?
.
Post up some pics of your install... LW battery and all!
I'd look to the dealer and have them remedy that on THEIR dime (not warranty), That should have showed up on the PDI even if they didn't install the battery.
I believe that they install the battery in the sled and related wires.
Who installed your LW battery??
The "little rectangluar box" you refer to sounds like the circuit breaker..
Does it have a Red wire on one post and red/dark-green on the other?
This is a 12 amp breaker, the ones at NAPA or trailer supply stores are 10 or 15 amp and usually have stud/nut terminals.
The Polaris part is # 2411592 about $15 (#9 in dwg)
Does it look like this?
.
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Also... did you figure out if you are running 3" pitch drivers on a 2.86" pitch track?
According to Robbie at Avid, he makes 2 separate sizes (2.86" and 3.0" pitch) in the 7 tooth for the metric Pro RMK Drive shaft... and that the 3" pitch does not run well on the 2.86" pitch tracks.
According to Robbie at Avid, he makes 2 separate sizes (2.86" and 3.0" pitch) in the 7 tooth for the metric Pro RMK Drive shaft... and that the 3" pitch does not run well on the 2.86" pitch tracks.
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Sorry MH I've been riding in WY with the Dan Adams crew, I'll get back to you on all this soon.
