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Duramix or Plastic Welder to Fix M Hood

the duramix works well, but make sure you use the proper cleaners first.
and for cracks, be sure to use the re-reinforcing tape as well.
i don't remember the part #, but you want to use the semi rigid stuff...mm
 
I'm pretty sure it is TPO (thermopolyolefin), in which case you will want to use 4030 in Duramix along with a light coat of adhesion promoter before you apply material. And like said above, use the reinforcing tape on the backside and I like to drill the the end of the crack on top of the usual beveling.

Good luck!
 
hi
i have repaired alot of the m hoods including my own i have a plastic welder and i remove so stock plastic from the under side of the headlight mount or a old bumper and use it for melt in fill. i use alum sceen from the inside of the hood and melt it into the hood and reinforce with some melt in urathane for strengh

hope this helps
 
I talked to my dealer about a cracked hood becouse I wanted to trade in the sled. My dealer knows I'm capable of body work, so he said to call a body shop that repairs his hoods. The body shop told me about "LORD" Fusor product called 101EZ. I've used it several times with great success. It is a two part epoxy that requires a special gun to push out the filler. The gun cost about $60.00 if I remember right. Can't say how much the 101EZ cost, it last a long time. It will fill cracks with excellent holding power. Sands just like "bondo" and can be cured faster with a heat gun. I used it on Arctic Cat snowmobile hoods and fiberglass hauls. Try an auto body supply house and ask for Lord Fusor 101 EZ.
 
SEM "Problem Plastic Repair" works great. It is also a two part epoxy but does not require any specialty tools to apply. It sets up quickly and can be sanded within 30 minutes. You can find it at numerous shops on the web.

I repaired the hood on my M7 with it and haven't had any problems for two seasons. I used fiberglass tape on the inside of the hood to provide tensile strength, applied the epoxy, sanded, then painted. Hope this helps.
 
I'm more of a fan of the 3M products. Both of the "E-Z Sand" plastic rapair products will stick good, if the hood is prepared properly. I have had good luck with using 3M's spray adhesion promotor before spreading the repair material, O and dry-wall tape works pretty darn good for backing on the under side of the hood.;)
 
This keeps coming back, some other thread a couple of years ago recomended "Lord Fusor" I bought some Lord Fusor 114, didn't work, it's great stuff for plastic car parts but it didn't hold on my hood. The trouble is it's all expensive, (relatively), to try to find out it doesn't work.
 
"Lord" Fusor 114 never heard of it. I used "Lord" Fusor 101 EZ same Mfg. but different product. Diesel is a petroluem so is Gasoline produced by Exxon. You get the idea.
 
Lord Fusor;

Lord Fusor 101EZ;
Applications
Structural and cosmetic repair of body panels, hoods, deck and doors.
Substrates
Structural and cosmetic repair of all types of rigid body plastics such as SMC, GTX, fiberglass, Metton® and carbon fiber.

Lord Fusor 114;
Applications
Finishing adhesive for all plastic bumpers and body panels.
Substrates
Finishing adhesive for all plastics including PP, fiberglass, Metton®, Telene®, SMC, TEO and urethane.`

So what is the Cat hood made of.
 
I shattered the front of my hood last year. I have tried adhesives and they seem like they crack over time no matter what. This time I used some aluminum sheet metal cut some strips out and riveted them them to the hood. You can hardly tell where it is cracked except for the black rivet heads. It held up well all last season.
 
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