Ive been searching around for the best possible replacement exhaust for my 2011-rmk 800.. its not the PRO edition but im not sure/curious if that matters or not.. anyways my stock exhaust is rust eaten and after the RK TEK drop-in kit upgrade the added compression is causin g backpressure blowouts in my pipe. first it blew the temp sensor out and after repairing that its blowing out holes in every weak spot it can find. all my searches lead to slp for replacement which im just fine with but my question is is there any other changes i should consider like intake, clutching, etc if i purchase just the single slp pipe and whatever compatible can and install it??? im not too concerned with having the loudest machine out there i just want it to last and perform well. any advice, tips, pointer, criticismz would be extremely helpful before i dive into a 1000 dollar setup blindfolded at 100+ lol thanks in advance
durability/compatability suggestions 2011 rmk 800 with rk tek drop in kit
- Thread starter VentureBoyz
- Start date
Pro or Standard, makes no difference, same motor. The RKT dropin works fine with the stock pipe - I ran the kit for two years with multiple heads on an 11 with no issues. If I was looking for a non-OEM pipe, Dynoport had one of the better ones for the 11-15 CFI2 that I've seen, no fuel mods, but I never owned it myself. Should be some stock takeoffs out there in good shape, and cheap, too. FWIW.
SLP Pro-Ride 800 Suggestions
Sorry Venture that we didn't find your post asking questions about our pipe sooner. I'm happy to help with that, but first I want give you some other suggestions (regardless of what you choose to do with your exhaust):
I am a little concerned based on what you are telling me regarding exhaust durability with your stock pipe on this sled. Even with your engine upgrade, you should still have good longevity from the stock pipe if everything is working correctly. I think there are some other things for you to check out that may be the root of the problem you are trying to fix by purchasing a new pipe.
The exhaust system is attached directly to the engine. When you have unwanted engine vibration or movement, there is nothing substantial between the engine and exhaust to soak it up. Excessive movement/vibration is often the cause of premature exhaust failure.
It is not uncommon on the Polaris Pro-ride chassis to have motor mounts fail (sometimes at fairly low mileage). Longer tracks and additional horsepower will speed the process of motor mount wear. Check and see how much your engine is moving under load. If the motor mounts are getting soft, you will need to replace them. To limit engine movement and prevent future damage, I would also suggest an engine torque arm (PN 23-69):
SLP Torque Arm
If your exhaust is vibrating more than what is typical, the most likely reason is the clutch needs to be balanced. It could also be that the clutch is not running true. If so, get the clutch balanced and then use a dial indicator to install the clutch on the engine with the least amount of total run-out (offset clutch run-out and crank run-out).
Regarding the exhaust - our durability on that pipe set has been very good. It also drops a few pounds and adds about 7 and a half horsepower compared to stock. The silencer included with the pipe is quiet (only a couple decibles louder than stock). It requires a Power Commander Fuel controller (Part# 70-168). Some recommendations to go along with the Pipe and Fuel Controller would be the SLP Intake (Part# 14-307) and our clutch kit. We also offer a kit that includes everything we require and recommend, which would be our Stage 2 Kit:
SLP Stage 2 Kit
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Adam Wood
Sales Manager, SLP
208.529.0244
Sorry Venture that we didn't find your post asking questions about our pipe sooner. I'm happy to help with that, but first I want give you some other suggestions (regardless of what you choose to do with your exhaust):
I am a little concerned based on what you are telling me regarding exhaust durability with your stock pipe on this sled. Even with your engine upgrade, you should still have good longevity from the stock pipe if everything is working correctly. I think there are some other things for you to check out that may be the root of the problem you are trying to fix by purchasing a new pipe.
The exhaust system is attached directly to the engine. When you have unwanted engine vibration or movement, there is nothing substantial between the engine and exhaust to soak it up. Excessive movement/vibration is often the cause of premature exhaust failure.
It is not uncommon on the Polaris Pro-ride chassis to have motor mounts fail (sometimes at fairly low mileage). Longer tracks and additional horsepower will speed the process of motor mount wear. Check and see how much your engine is moving under load. If the motor mounts are getting soft, you will need to replace them. To limit engine movement and prevent future damage, I would also suggest an engine torque arm (PN 23-69):
SLP Torque Arm
If your exhaust is vibrating more than what is typical, the most likely reason is the clutch needs to be balanced. It could also be that the clutch is not running true. If so, get the clutch balanced and then use a dial indicator to install the clutch on the engine with the least amount of total run-out (offset clutch run-out and crank run-out).
Regarding the exhaust - our durability on that pipe set has been very good. It also drops a few pounds and adds about 7 and a half horsepower compared to stock. The silencer included with the pipe is quiet (only a couple decibles louder than stock). It requires a Power Commander Fuel controller (Part# 70-168). Some recommendations to go along with the Pipe and Fuel Controller would be the SLP Intake (Part# 14-307) and our clutch kit. We also offer a kit that includes everything we require and recommend, which would be our Stage 2 Kit:
SLP Stage 2 Kit
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
Adam Wood
Sales Manager, SLP
208.529.0244
Sorry for the delayed reply
Well i ended up installing the straightline pipe but the rest of what ive done is probably quite unique and unheard if to most.. ive installed a Sno-Stuf can with the pipe, new springs and exhaust gaskets, and an attitude industries gen 3.5 fuel controller with dereks suggested fuel map installed.. thing runs like a raped ape but not consistently.. im getting a bog/cut out in the WOT mode and sometimes i hit the DET when cruising up the trail.. my understanding of how to set up the box is vague but im figuring it out.. just frustrating.. i was told that mode 4, 5, 6, were irrelevent and not needed since im not running a turbo.. it runs best at 8100 to 8350 rpm with these mode settings: green 2 and 3 lights, yellow 3 and 4 ir 4 and 5 pending elevation, and red somewhere around 4 and 5 or 5 and 6 lights but uts not consistent.. tge cutout is a drag i cant climb the big stuff and the time i spend adjusting stuff looking for that sweet spot seems ridiculous.. whenever i change elevation i have to do it again ... i ride the high uintas primarily between 8 and 10000' ... almost at a loss but curious if i need the fuel controller with my mods and can these motors handle rpms over 8000? Safely... any input would be appreciated
Well i ended up installing the straightline pipe but the rest of what ive done is probably quite unique and unheard if to most.. ive installed a Sno-Stuf can with the pipe, new springs and exhaust gaskets, and an attitude industries gen 3.5 fuel controller with dereks suggested fuel map installed.. thing runs like a raped ape but not consistently.. im getting a bog/cut out in the WOT mode and sometimes i hit the DET when cruising up the trail.. my understanding of how to set up the box is vague but im figuring it out.. just frustrating.. i was told that mode 4, 5, 6, were irrelevent and not needed since im not running a turbo.. it runs best at 8100 to 8350 rpm with these mode settings: green 2 and 3 lights, yellow 3 and 4 ir 4 and 5 pending elevation, and red somewhere around 4 and 5 or 5 and 6 lights but uts not consistent.. tge cutout is a drag i cant climb the big stuff and the time i spend adjusting stuff looking for that sweet spot seems ridiculous.. whenever i change elevation i have to do it again ... i ride the high uintas primarily between 8 and 10000' ... almost at a loss but curious if i need the fuel controller with my mods and can these motors handle rpms over 8000? Safely... any input would be appreciated