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Driveshaft compatibility

turbo800

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Will a drive shaft from a T3 (XM) directly bolt in to a Gen4 without issue?

I'm wondering if I switched to a 2.86 pitch track, from the G4 track 3.5 pitch, if I could just use a T3 driveshaft without pressing drivers off/on.

I realize the T3 will be a 7 tooth and the G4 has a 6 tooth, but clearance shouldn't be an issue.
 
7t 2.86 pitch is just slightly smaller than a 6t 3.5.. From what I know and what I've seen that swap should work.
 
Will a drive shaft from a T3 (XM) directly bolt in to a Gen4 without issue?

I'm wondering if I switched to a 2.86 pitch track, from the G4 track 3.5 pitch, if I could just use a T3 driveshaft without pressing drivers off/on.

I realize the T3 will be a 7 tooth and the G4 has a 6 tooth, but clearance shouldn't be an issue.

T3's are 3" pitch, not 2.86.
 
7t 2.86 pitch is just slightly smaller than a 6t 3.5.. From what I know and what I've seen that swap should work.

I'm just not sure if there was any changes from the XM T3 shaft itself in '15/16 to the G4 chassis. (Brake, Splines, etc)

I bought a used G4 shaft over the weekend, I'll just press drivers and that should eliminate any shaft fitment issues hopefully.
 
Let us know!!
Do you have an install tool? The driveshaft shape (12 spline) does not extend all the way to where the drive shaft necks down to the gear splines. We use a sleeve to "help" the driver get up onto the 12 spline shape. Also, there is a very sharp edge at that neck that usually cuts the driver before it even gets onto the shaft. After you press the drivers off make sure you still have some tolerance to achieve a press fit. The stock ones are prone to slipping on the shaft and that plastic does stretch after time. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know...
Andy
 
Let us know!!
Do you have an install tool? The driveshaft shape (12 spline) does not extend all the way to where the drive shaft necks down to the gear splines. We use a sleeve to "help" the driver get up onto the 12 spline shape. Also, there is a very sharp edge at that neck that usually cuts the driver before it even gets onto the shaft. After you press the drivers off make sure you still have some tolerance to achieve a press fit. The stock ones are prone to slipping on the shaft and that plastic does stretch after time. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know...
Andy
I chickened out on the XM T3 drive shaft, cause I didn't want to do the work twice if there was fitment issues.
I bought a take out Gen4 driveshaft from a swapmeet on Saturday.
Also, on Avid's website, they say both drivers should be pressed on from the brake side of the shaft.

I guess the big question now is, do I spring for nice machined Avid drivers -or- a set of take off XP drivers that have been hanging out in the shop for awhile :)
 
The T3 was a 3” pitch when they went to the three inch.
I guess I stand corrected.
I could have swore it went straight from 2.86 pitch on the XP/XM to the 3.5 pitch on the Gen4.
If that's the case with the T3, being a 3.0 pitch, 7 tooth, trying one in a Gen4 to avoid pressing drivers would be a waste of time for me.
I would need to use a standard 8 tooth and shaft, 2.86 pitch driver from '13/14 or non-T3 from '15/16.
 
I guess I stand corrected.
I could have swore it went straight from 2.86 pitch on the XP/XM to the 3.5 pitch on the Gen4.
If that's the case with the T3, being a 3.0 pitch, 7 tooth, trying one in a Gen4 to avoid pressing drivers would be a waste of time for me.
I would need to use a standard 8 tooth and shaft, 2.86 pitch driver from '13/14 or non-T3 from '15/16.
If you got a G4 shaft then you are good, I was try to remember that I thought there was a difference in the driveshaft lengths from the Xm and the G4. I looked im my old race books and the dimensions appear to be different.
 
From what I remember there has been some debate.. If you had a 163 3'' paddle then it was 3'' pitch (however a 163 is actually a 162) or a174 3'', 3.0 pitch. These combos were all 7t 3.0 pitch drivers. If you had a 154 2.5 paddle then you had 8t 2.86 pitch drivers but if you had this then you didn't have a "T3".


Yes, you should spring for Avid Drivers... In stock item over here at Avid!
 
Curous to the desire to run the old 2.86 pitch? Got some old tracks laying around?
IMO, they old Camo Extreme design, while slightly heavier, far more durable long term.
I've not really heard feedback on the 'LX' version of the stock track, in both 2.5 and 3.0 lug heights.
 
Depends on what you want, a 2.86 would be an extremely inferior track traction wise compared to a 3.5” pitch, a 2.5” lug doo track will perform better than a 2.5” 2.86 pitch.
The issue with the current 3.5” pitch tracks is guys love to rip on the trail, or rip up hills in low snow conditions, exactly what lots of up has experienced the last two seasons due to low snow. If ripping around in low snow is what suits you then a 2.86 2.5” will work, but if its deep, you may be regretting that track choice.
 
Depends on what you want, a 2.86 would be an extremely inferior track traction wise compared to a 3.5” pitch, a 2.5” lug doo track will perform better than a 2.5” 2.86 pitch.
The issue with the current 3.5” pitch tracks is guys love to rip on the trail, or rip up hills in low snow conditions, exactly what lots of up has experienced the last two seasons due to low snow. If ripping around in low snow is what suits you then a 2.86 2.5” will work, but if its deep, you may be regretting that track choice.
Interestingly enough, the '24 Freeride 146 came with the 2.86 pitch track.
Some have been happy with the 15" wide track, others have complained about it.
 
Interestingly enough, the '24 Freeride 146 came with the 2.86 pitch track.
Some have been happy with the 15" wide track, others have complained about it.
The 146 freeride is a low snow sled purpose built sled, good for tricks, the freeride 146 is a powdermax 2 track thats a 2.86 pitch, that pitch it much better suited for higher speeds.
The freeride also comes with 154, 165 2.5” and 3” are the 3.5” pitch powdermax light.
With the 36” front end, the 15w will help with getting on edge. I cannot remember if the outer edge paddles on the 15w are narrower than the 16w.
 
The 146 freeride is a low snow sled purpose built sled, good for tricks, the freeride 146 is a powdermax 2 track thats a 2.86 pitch, that pitch it much better suited for higher speeds.
The freeride also comes with 154, 165 2.5” and 3” are the 3.5” pitch powdermax light.
With the 36” front end, the 15w will help with getting on edge. I cannot remember if the outer edge paddles on the 15w are narrower than the 16w.
I can’t edit, the 2024 freeride had a 2.86p 154,2.5” when it went to the 15w.
 
The 146 is definitely not for me.
This 2.86 conversion is for the wife's sled. It should be just fine.
I think this 146 thing is a fad for tricks, etc
For the guys that ride the steep and deep, it has a hard time hanging without being pinned everywhere. Better bring extra fuel, cause she's thirsty!
 
Any Xp or newer shaft should do. However somewhere between -19 and -22 the shafts got a bit shorter on the chain case side. That means if you want to use a newer thinner bottom gear on an older longer shaft you need to fabricate a 5mm spacer to put between sprocket and locking ring., or get an older thicker sprocket. And obviously a newer shaft needs a newer gear, you can't put an old thick gear on a new short shaft.
 
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