drive belt break in questions

[pura vida]

so after reading the issues some have been having with the 13 shafts and belt drives and finally managing to get at least a few miles on my sled, i have a question,

how do you know when your drive belt is "broke in"?

first ride i had was 25 miles of trail. warmed the motor and moving parts up and then pretty much hammered down the trail. personally i felt this was a perfect break in ride as the trail was fast and smooth with the perfect amount of snow for traction and cooling without a huge snow load on the entire drive train. did many hard pulls WFO for short periods of time. imo, this built good cylinder pressure to properly seat the rings to the cylinders without over loading the drive system. (sled ran amazing btw considering it was brand new. was pulling 8200-8300 all day. granted it was a very short day)

next ride was 25 miles of super deep, heavy, wet snow. (see attached pic. and yes he is standing in the pic) but b/c is was so heavy and deep the three of us dig more digging than riding. when we were riding it was pretty much WFO everywhere you went. but we also had many extended stops to dig yourself and your buddy out. again, the sled ran flawlessly. the 13 in 100% stock form is pulling the same clutch (more consistently also) as my 11 did with a pipe and head. again rpms were 8200-8300 all day.

so i get home and check the sled over and can see some of the "flaking" or "dusting" of the drive belt on my break, exhaust, and general drive belt area. but my question is how much is enough? or how much is too much? will the shedding stop or will it be a continual thing, just as the clutch belt puts off dust? how do you know when the belt is completely broke in? in know people are saying 100 miles (is this from polaris?) but i would think it would have a lot more to do with heat and riding conditions than actual millage? i could maybe see 100 miles as being a safe general break in period? i pretty much plan on riding it like i stole it from here on out. not sure what else i can do?

ok, now discuss...

pv

 

[wjl]

I noticed mine was sitting or seated into the pulleys a lot more. As for the flaking mine looks like it lost its gloss and it is a dull color. Seems like it has a little more flex too.

 

[BGYDOP1]

QD

Agree, mine definately wore into the cogs, Really notice if you had it off when it was new, then after a few miles looked at it again. The shedding has dwindled also. The majority of the mess was around 30 miles for me. Sled runs really well.

 

[spider]

I broke my sled in by doing something completely crazy and out of the norm for snowest.... I followed the owners manual. I've read the Mototune way, I've read the countless threads about everybody that hammers the p!ss out of their sleds at mile 20, then calls it a crappy system when it fails.

"Ride it like you stole it" sounds cool... but I opted for "Ride it like I paid 13 Grand for it". 100 pretty easy miles, stopping often to let the belt cool, and it really didn't take that long. The belt seemed to stop shedding after 20 or 30 miles. This thing goes through the pow so well, it was pretty easy to avoid WOT during those 100 miles.

Many will disagree with bringing the motor to life easy, but I figured if polaris had people that could design and build a motor, they might also figure out how to break it in. It really solves the dilema of how to break the motor hard and the belt easy. At 177 miles and my belt looks good, lower pulley runs true, and motor pulls strong. Even had a niiice waist deep day thrown in there.

 

[Pro-8250]

PV. Well it doesn't suck to be you guys!!!
We have 80+ trail miles. Belt looks the same as it did with one mile.
We also had the dust thing you are talking about.
We basically are doing the 100 mile thing and not going over half throttle for the most part. Stop and inspect now and then. Oh yeah we did the occasional
BRAAAAAP! It's a small price to pay to hopefully not have problems after driving 1200+ miles to Wyoming on Wednesday!

 

[akracerx]

QuickDrive™ Frequently Asked Questions
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Why does a new belt have the look and feel of plastic or wax? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: The gray plastic-wax like coating on the belt is the mold release compound. This is the compound that sheds during initial vehicle use as stated in the Belt Break-In Period section on page 2.
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]What effect does the mold release compound have on belt performance? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: The mold release compound on a new QuickDrive™ belt must be shed to optimize belt and sprocket performance. Optimized belt performance is achieved as the new belt and sprockets wear together during the break-in period. The mold release compound begins to shed the instant the drive system is moving and is typically completely shed at 100 miles (160 km).
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]What is the best piece of advice relating to the QuickDrive™ belt that I can give my customers when they take delivery of their new 2013 PRO RMK snowmobile or purchase a new QuickDrive belt™? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: Customers should follow the drive belt and QuickDrive[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]™ [/FONT][/FONT]belt break-in process has outlined in the Owner’s Manual. To properly break-in a new QuickDrive belt:
 Vary the throttle position and limit full throttle use
 Always take time to warm up the belt and driveline prior to operating the snowmobile. Remember to free the track and skis from the ground before engaging the throttle.
In addition to the points found in the Owner’s Manual:
 Riders should periodically inspect the belt and clean the belt, sprockets and surrounding parts of the mold-release compound using a dry towel.
 During the break-in period, riders should stop and allow the snowmobile to cool after high throttle / high track load events. Doing so will not only help the QuickDrive[FONT=Calibri,Calibri][FONT=Calibri,Calibri]™[/FONT][/FONT]belt achieve maximum performance, but also properly break-in the engine and drive belt.
 Riders must always be cautious when jumping and landing a snowmobile, and avoid "power-on" landings. Damage caused to any snowmobile component caused by improper use or abuse is not covered by warranty.
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Is there an alternate method of installing the QuickDrive™belt without using the installation tools? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: Polaris recommends using the Belt Installation tools, SPX PN: PS-50826, when installing the belt and sprockets. The installation tools provide the easiest method to properly align the upper and lower sprockets with the drive and jack shafts.
While it is possible to install the belt and sprockets without the installation tools, never use a hammer, pry bar, or roll the belt onto the sprockets. Any damage to the sprocket teeth or belt caused by hammering, prying, or rolling the belt onto the sprockets will cause premature belt failure and not covered under warranty.
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Why does a new QuickDrive™belt kit include new sprocket fasteners? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: New fasteners are included with the belt kit because you must remove the upper and lower sprockets to replace the belt. The fasteners that secure the sprockets to the drive and jack shafts have thread lock applied to the threads. Installing the new fasteners included with the belt kit ensure that new thread lock is used when installing the fasteners. Please follow the instructions included with the new belt and within this Team Tip when removing and installing a new belt.
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Is there more QuickDrive ™service information coming from Polaris in the future? [/FONT][/FONT]
Answer: Yes. The Polaris Service Department is currently developing a QuickDrive[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]™[/FONT][/FONT]Service video. When the video is published, we will post the video on the Polaris STOP website and under Unit Inquiry.

 

[pura vida]

"Ride it like you stole it" sounds cool... but I opted for "Ride it like I paid 13 Grand for it". 100 pretty easy miles, stopping often to let the belt cool, and it really didn't take that long. The belt seemed to stop shedding after 20 or 30 miles. This thing goes through the pow so well, it was pretty easy to avoid WOT during those 100 miles.

Many will disagree with bringing the motor to life easy, but I figured if polaris had people that could design and build a motor, they might also figure out how to break it in.

sorry, it's just a saying, i wasn't trying to sound cool. so since you paid 13k for it you aren't going to ride it "hard"? to each their own but i understand the expect the necessary maintenance that goes with riding my sled hard vs. being paranoid of using it or going where i want due to cost. and of course, "hard riding" and going where you want will vary greatly from one person to the next. i'm simply trying to figure out when i don't have to worry about the drive belt any longer and can expect it to be as good to go as it gets. it was more for the discussion than anything. at this point i'm going to "ride it how i feel is appropriate to my style/desires/intentions/conditions" and see what happens.

i think there is a number of people who would argue polaris doesn't have the best track record when it comes engine reliability... again, to each their own, but i personally don't agree with an "easy" engine break in. i consider my first ride as just about my ideal break in ride, only it would have been nice to be a little longer. maybe double the miles.

pv

 

[pura vida]

akracerx, thanks for the info. hadn't seen that specific dealer notice although had heard most of what was said. guess that gives a decent answer to most of my questions, but was just as interested in what actual users had to say rather than just what the dealers/factories were putting out.

pv

 

[spider]

sorry, it's just a saying, i wasn't trying to sound cool. so since you paid 13k for it you aren't going to ride it "hard"? to each their own but i understand the expect the necessary maintenance that goes with riding my sled hard vs. being paranoid of using it or going where i want due to cost. and of course, "hard riding" and going where you want will vary greatly from one person to the next. i'm simply trying to figure out when i don't have to worry about the drive belt any longer and can expect it to be as good to go as it gets. it was more for the discussion than anything. at this point i'm going to "ride it how i feel is appropriate to my style/desires/intentions/conditions" and see what happens.

i think there is a number of people who would argue polaris doesn't have the best track record when it comes engine reliability... again, to each their own, but i personally don't agree with an "easy" engine break in. i consider my first ride as just about my ideal break in ride, only it would have been nice to be a little longer. maybe double the miles.

pv

Nah, I didn't mean to direct that comment straight to you, more of general comment toward a lot of the guys, and a lot of the threads that showed belt failures but then went on to describe how the sled was taken immediately into deep wot situations.

Maybe it's my own lack of trust in this thing out of the box, or just my snow conditions on those days that made the break in easy. All info here and from Polaris points to the magic 100 mile mark, so I figured I would at least give it that and then it's game on (it only took 2 rides).

I started my third day with 98 miles on it and it took about 15 minutes before I was all a$$ed-up in a 7 foot creek sink-hole... welcome to the world, sled !

I mostly trust it now, but I still take enough beer-breaks to avoid some sort of thermo-nuclear meltdown under the hood. Hope yours runs great for ya, pretty amazing machine when they do.

 

[edavis0202]

This is how I broke mine in...

 

[pura vida]

Nah, I didn't mean to direct that comment straight to you, more of general comment toward a lot of the guys, and a lot of the threads that showed belt failures but then went on to describe how the sled was taken immediately into deep wot situations.


I started my third day with 98 miles on it and it took about 15 minutes before I was all a$$ed-up in a 7 foot creek sink-hole... welcome to the world, sled !

no worries, i feel ya. good work. it is always fun to be assed-up in creeks!

the other bummer is if you do blow a belt then you have another 100 mile break in. that is a bit of a PITA. it will be interesting to see where it stands by the end of the season and what everyone's opinion is by then.

pv

 

[Twostroke]

how much would it cost to install a chaincase off a 11 or 12?

another door has opened for the aftermarket guys...

 

[winter brew]

Shop Pro broke in full throttle in nipple deep snow with 3" track....and a little drag racing on the road. Not buying the easy break in excuse for failure from Polaris.
If you have a failure check the pulley runout. That is all there is to maintain constant belt tension...excessive runout will make for tight/loose belt.
Anyone check this on their Pro?....especially if you had a failure??

 

[akrevrider]

Quick Drive break in notes

My Pro was broke in running 21 miles of lake riding with some swamps & snow fields. 16oz pre mix oil was added to the fuel. The sled mainly smoked at idle and didn’t smoke too much while running the sled it was at 120 – 140 degrees. The QD belt & top cog ran hotter than the lower belt cog. It was too hot to hold my hand on it for the first two runs then a lot cooler after that letting the sled sit and then running it again.

Smooth power no misses or hiccups in the power band. I would go through the entire power band and then let the crusty/slushy snow slow me down instead of the brakes hard to prevent stripping belt cogs. There was a lot of flaking or shedding from the QD belt during the first two runs.. not enough to worry about the shop vac cleaned it right up.

The primary & secondary got a little hot for the first couple of runs then they both ran warm to the touch with a little belt dust. Overall pretty happy about the way it ran compared to the demo Pro that I drove at Arctic Man.

 

[geo]

Where and how would you check the run-out on the sprockets? Visually? On the tops or bottoms of the teeth? On the inside surface? On the outside edge?

These sprockets are cast and it is difficult to check their runout (with any accuracy) I felt.
As best as I can measure my sprockets are true but I see a bit of belt deflection (with a bounce) on the slack side.

Brew. You said one of your buds has a very true pulleys. When you checked did it seem both sides of the belt (tension and slack side) ran smooth and flat on the stand. Or did you figure where to put the dial indicator?

 

[ak ryda]

so after reading the issues some have been having with the 13 shafts and belt drives and finally managing to get at least a few miles on my sled, i have a question,

how do you know when your drive belt is "broke in"?

first ride i had was 25 miles of trail. warmed the motor and moving parts up and then pretty much hammered down the trail. personally i felt this was a perfect break in ride as the trail was fast and smooth with the perfect amount of snow for traction and cooling without a huge snow load on the entire drive train. did many hard pulls WFO for short periods of time. imo, this built good cylinder pressure to properly seat the rings to the cylinders without over loading the drive system. (sled ran amazing btw considering it was brand new. was pulling 8200-8300 all day. granted it was a very short day)

next ride was 25 miles of super deep, heavy, wet snow. (see attached pic. and yes he is standing in the pic) but b/c is was so heavy and deep the three of us dig more digging than riding. when we were riding it was pretty much WFO everywhere you went. but we also had many extended stops to dig yourself and your buddy out. again, the sled ran flawlessly. the 13 in 100% stock form is pulling the same clutch (more consistently also) as my 11 did with a pipe and head. again rpms were 8200-8300 all day.

so i get home and check the sled over and can see some of the "flaking" or "dusting" of the drive belt on my break, exhaust, and general drive belt area. but my question is how much is enough? or how much is too much? will the shedding stop or will it be a continual thing, just as the clutch belt puts off dust? how do you know when the belt is completely broke in? in know people are saying 100 miles (is this from polaris?) but i would think it would have a lot more to do with heat and riding conditions than actual millage? i could maybe see 100 miles as being a safe general break in period? i pretty much plan on riding it like i stole it from here on out. not sure what else i can do?

ok, now discuss...

pv

No way I would break in a belt like that, can guarantee you will have problems shortly......................................

 

[akrevrider]

QD Sproket run-out

Where and how would you check the run-out on the sprockets? Visually? On the tops or bottoms of the teeth? On the inside surface? On the outside edge?

These sprockets are cast and it is difficult to check their runout (with any accuracy) I felt.
As best as I can measure my sprockets are true but I see a bit of belt deflection (with a bounce) on the slack side.


geo,

I ran the sled up on a stand looking at the driveshaft, top & bottom cogs and belt through the rpm range to see what it looked like. Best as I could see all of the driveline was running true and the belt would shift ever so slightly under throttle.

The sled then had the clamp installed on it before the first ride...no issues so far.

 

[pura vida]

well, my belt just failed at 75 miles. found one broken cog and the next one starting to come off on the morning inspection. missed a killer day. not too excited at the moment. the worst part being i now don't have any confidence in the system as a whole. once going to keep it from doing it again? and as best as i could tell, there is no visible run out on either pulley. new thread to be started...

pv

 

[geo]

On mine visually the sprockets run true and it looks like the belt has a bit of a bump Timed it with marker lines on the sprockets and belt.

Dial indicator on any inner face of my lower sprocket (mine varied .012" depending on indicators position) was useless except for outer face below bottom of teeth.
This will only show you axial run-out. Mine had about .003" and that could be plating.

It's a good check for bad shaft though.