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Doo guy looking to take a Poo

B

barry1me

Well-known member
Im selling my 2010 Summit and buying an RMK. I have been watching this sled for a while and Im going to take the plunge. This would be the first Polaris I have ever owned so there is a lot for me to learn. Some things I would like to know is as follows.

-What changes on the clutching from sea level to 6k-9k and 9k-12k? Im used to the TRAs

-How is changing chaincase oil vs the XP. I hate that hassle of the XP

-How long is break in, and do people typically change plugs after breakin like they do on Skidoos?


- I have read several comments about the brakes catching, anything I need to know about that?
 
After owning nothing but Ski Doos for the past 35 years, I love my RMK Pro. Leaving in 4 days to Togwotee Wy for it's first trip in the steep and deep. I have 40 miles so far, just boondocking in Michigan, but I like the way it handles, and the Low end Pull.
 
break in is approx. 2.5 hours into its life, chaincase oil change is a complete pain (IMHO). clutching changes are from 5-8, then 8-10, then 10 & up. Mainly a weight change, a different helix is available. I didnt change my plugs yet and dont see any reason to. My brakes were dragging but it was a re-installation error (my fault). Otherwise its the most B.A. sled Ive ever ridden. Does everything they said it would do. Very fun. Good choice on buying one.
 
After owning nothing but Ski Doos for the past 35 years, I love my RMK Pro. Leaving in 4 days to Togwotee Wy for it's first trip in the steep and deep. I have 40 miles so far, just boondocking in Michigan, but I like the way it handles, and the Low end Pull.

Im from MI also. Are these sleds clutched for low elevation, or did you have to change it?
 
You will have to change it for mich.. flatlands.. 10-68 weights needed...

i used 68 Belly Busters

love it!!

10-62 come stock
 
You will have to change it for mich.. flatlands.. 10-68 weights needed...

i used 68 Belly Busters

love it!!

10-62 come stock

how do you change the weights on the polaris's? When I go to the snowies do I just need to change weights again and thats it?
 
Im selling my 2010 Summit and buying an RMK. I have been watching this sled for a while and Im going to take the plunge. This would be the first Polaris I have ever owned so there is a lot for me to learn. Some things I would like to know is as follows.

-What changes on the clutching from sea level to 6k-9k and 9k-12k? Im used to the TRAs

-How is changing chaincase oil vs the XP. I hate that hassle of the XP

-How long is break in, and do people typically change plugs after breakin like they do on Skidoos?


- I have read several comments about the brakes catching, anything I need to know about that?

After break in (mine seemed to really start running at 4-5 hours) put 62g (stock weights) in for 6-9k, and 60's for 9-12k. It will pull the 62's "ok" at altitude, but will perform much better with the 60's. See Ron's post on clutching for some very useful info.

Changine chaincase oil takes about 10 min. Drain plug on bottom, and fill plug through footguard...simple. Wipe plugs and re-adjust chain tension.
 
Coming from 4 summits, 2 were mods, still own four doos. And now a Pro Poo, and made a good pass tearing through it after purchase. Buds own RMK's, so I'm not unfamilar with the brand. Here's what I can tell you from experience:

Clutching - stock, all you have to do is change the flyweights for MI to WY. It came stock with 10-62's (62 gram), and your dealer or you should be running 10-68's for MI. I suggest you pick up 10-60's for the Snowies, especially if it's not broke in, and bring your 10-62's. Very easy to change weights. Just need a pry bar, sliding half block, allen and open end wrench, no need to pull clutch or sliding half, unlike doo to get at the pins. You can get a pry bar and block from Goodwin in a kit. First timer - remember to pull the belt off before you use the pry bar to close the primary. No changes to secondary required.

Chaincase - it's easy compared to the XP, not as easy as the Rev. Allen drain, allen screw fill. Takes less than a doo. Change fluid often on the RMK. Check chain tension carefully. Harder to adjust than a doo, but with the smaller stock can, it's not too bad. No reason to pull the can. FYI, many/most allens on the RMK are SAE, not metric. (On a doo, the only SAE is the drain allen).

Break in - hours about as stated, not as defined as the doo programmed timing advance. Plugs are up to you, but the thing runs pretty clean, even with oil in gas. I'd suggest staying away from iridiums for now, unlike the CFI-4, but dropping in new wouldn't hurt.

Check your oil line for a bubble in the line out of the oil tank. Very easy to remedy by pulling the line off the tank, and freeing the tank, of course, and manually bleeding.

Track will stretch lots during breakin. Be prepared to tighten.

I noticed lots of potential wiring and some hose rubs when I went through mine. Many zips and tape ups to bulletproof it. The harness design and execution is not impressive, probably the weakest part of the sled's design, they should have figured this out with the Rush. poo really needs to wake up here and redesign it for their vendor and servicing. Incredible chassis design. Expect to fall in love with sledding even more.
 
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do the polaris primaries have any adjustment like the TRAs quick clickers? If want to go ride snowies at 11k, and then go ride in CO at 8K ft what will I have to do with clutches? Where is the best place to buy weights for the polariss? Is polaris anal about what oil to run in these sleds like Skidoo is?
 
do the polaris primaries have any adjustment like the TRAs quick clickers? If want to go ride snowies at 11k, and then go ride in CO at 8K ft what will I have to do with clutches? Where is the best place to buy weights for the polariss? Is polaris anal about what oil to run in these sleds like Skidoo is?

no clickers..just change weights.(not hard to do, just practice at home in a warm garage so you know how to and have the tools),polaris is anal about running their oil ..and the dealer can get you weights or aftermarket such as slp, epi ...should be a sheet that came with the owners manual that shows clutching chart...
 
how is factory clutching? I know doo clutching sucks stock.

stock is about the best you will find on a stock mountain sled...its darn good..but I think there is a lot left as well...just put a setup on mine..will see how it works this weekend hopefully...
 
stock is about the best you will find on a stock mountain sled...its darn good..but I think there is a lot left as well...just put a setup on mine..will see how it works this weekend hopefully...

how are you liking your sled? any issues thus far? This will be a major change to me as im so used to the XP. I have owned 7 XP chassis sleds. If all goes well I will have mine tomorrow:clock:
 
how are you liking your sled? any issues thus far? This will be a major change to me as im so used to the XP. I have owned 7 XP chassis sleds. If all goes well I will have mine tomorrow:clock:

have only ridden it 3 times..has about 120 miles on it..havent done anything to it but gas(dealer filled it with oil and it still hasnt burned a qt yet...) this week i put a clutch setup on it to get a baseline(and the stock clutching is very good for stock, maybe the best stock mnt clutching out there) of what will work..otherwise..its flawless...have rode with an etec, m-8's, revs..so far it has run with the boys without effort...am very impressed with how well the sled performs..far better then anyone wants to believe it will...
 
picking up my 163 tomorrow....im so pumped. I have tried pretty hard over the last 3 days to try and find one. No one has one. Getting a spare belt with it.


Should I get 10-68s or 10-70s for low elevation?
 
picking up my 163 tomorrow....im so pumped. I have tried pretty hard over the last 3 days to try and find one. No one has one. Getting a spare belt with it.


Should I get 10-68s or 10-70s for low elevation?

glad you found one, just having it in the garage should put a smile on your face.
 
picking up my 163 tomorrow....im so pumped. I have tried pretty hard over the last 3 days to try and find one. No one has one. Getting a spare belt with it.


Should I get 10-68s or 10-70s for low elevation?

68's under 1500 ft...66's under 2500 ft seems right...
 
You will love polaris clutching after riding Doo's, I live at 3400 ft elevation and 66g wieghts are good at my house, I ran the sled at 1500 ft at Christmas and it needed more wieght, I would run 68's at 2500 or less elevation. I switched back to Polaris for mainly the easy consistant clutching, and I did not like the XP chasis over my Rev chasis. The new Poo Rocks !! You'll be happy not having to tear down your primary clutch 3 times a year to clean and repair like the TRA. This Sled is easy to ride compared to the Doo's.

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