DOES THE BASE MODEL RMK MAKE A BETTER TURBO CANDIDATE?

[mountainhorse]

DOES THE BASE MODEL RMK MAKE A BETTER TURBO CANDIDATE?

IMO... I think it would.

The PRO has better base shocks than the Base, A lightweight Brake Rotor, A tubular Jackshaft, a plate style Steering post top, Pro Taper bars, a non ported snowflap and a carbon fiber rear bumper tube. No bulkhead/tunnel heat exchanger.

The tracks on the PRO and Std are the same this year... both are single ply series 5.1, 2.4" lug height tracks.

The base model 2011 PRO-Chassis RMK has the base model Arvin-Meritor shocks... Most turbo guys with the ski lift issues are changing these out anyway...

Lightweight brake Rotor and Jack shaft... saves about 3 lbs... but the Tublar PRO-RMK Jackshaft may or may not be able to take a years worth of 100 more HP of the Turbo... Plus, you can buy and install the sawtooth rotor in minutes if you really needed it.

The steering post... I prefer the pivot style steering post top "T-Top" posts, but it is heavier compared to the Pro-Taper setup... The Pro-tapers are too tall for me and from what I hear... too tall for people like Chris Burandt as well....The pivot seems to give a bit more in crashes (I do a fair share) than the plate style.

The snow flap.... hmmm

The CF Bumper Tube on the PRO.... not much lighter than the Aluminum if any...

NOW... For the big advantage...The Standard 2011 800 RMK's have a bulkhead heat exchanger... Very useful if you are going to a water to air intercooler which seems to be popular and maybe getting more so. Plus this will add some additional cooling. This heat exchanger will NOT be available as a service part (you cant walk into your dealer and buy the part) from what I learned from the Polaris staff in Roseau on Tuesday.

If you are turbo and modding the sled anyway...you will probably go with a suspension upgrade that will control the front end lift with the 100+ more hp than the stock configuration.

 

[sledneck_03]

I say yup. Well worth it based on its almost all black, the weight with the rmk can be removed with the ftx motorsports carbon hood and it would be all black or if your like me and hate red as a primary color. You are changing the suspension out anyways. The light weight parts seem minimal to me compared to the cooling and dont forget the boggie wheels ( i think are stock on the rmk and an accessory on the pro like before). To me being a flats/mountain rider and a current rmk over dragon owner is ive never worried about temp or my hifaxs compared to dragon owners. So i would consider it over the pro turbo or no turbo..... other than not as flashy as the pro, has crappy shocks, and has the stupid heater/headlight/brake control that takes up a 1/4 of the handlebars.

to be on the other side of the fence you can add the ftx motorsports rear cooler to a pro and the boggy wheels and leave the shocks.

 

[sledhooligan]

I've been debating this too. Didn't know about the cooler difference. As far as the pro upgrades a light weight jack shaft and brake are goen to run around 300$. You can sell the shocks eaiser then stockers so paying 600 extra for the pro might not be a big deal. And you can always trade out steering post, bars, hoods with someone who has a stocker.

 

[Big D rmk700]

I ordered the base model in silver and looks exactly the same as a silver pro, I got because it had the front cooler and if I do end up riding here in MN I wanted that front cooler.

 

[Kestrel2126]

As far as the shocks go, I think for a little over ahundred bucks, get the track shocks revalved, and the rear skid will be sufficient. Or sell the stock shocks, and get a set from Carls, Holz, ARSFX, etc. I doubt anyone is going to pay much for the shocks from the base model.
THe steering post isn't an issue IMO, if you want to go to pivot, get an adapter (RSI, Powermadd).
Cooling hopefully will not be an issue, but that is yet to be seen. Same with durability of jackshaft under boost. I actually think that if you are going to run a water to air cooler, the tunnel exchanger plus that is going to provide plenty of water volume for cooling, but warmer spring days may become an issue. (I would suggest the use of some water wetter in the coolant regardless of setup) On the other hand, I think the BD and silber mini coolers with the fan are sufficient for cooling (air to air) but that's only my opinion.
Overall, I think its going to be basically a wash, all things considered, unless the lightweight jackshaft or the lack of cooling on the spring order sleds, proves to be an issue.

 

[Peevo]

The steering post... I prefer the pivot style steering post top "T-Top" posts, but it is heavier compared to the Pro-Taper setup... The Pro-tapers are too tall for me and from what I hear... too tall for people like Chris Burandt as well....The pivot seems to give a bit more in crashes (I do a fair share) than the plate style.

Can't do things like this anymore now when I'm riding a pro.

 

[mountainhorse]

OH MY!!

 

[mountainhorse]

For 2013... I still think the Base model with the better cooling and the proven turbo-compatibility of the chaincase makes a better choice for Turbo Peeps.

.

 

[Reg2view]

Base, assuming since you have the coin for the blower, you would also at least be upgrading the shocks, even from the pro, which are okay for some, but others have found improvements (I run the Carl's evol package my pro.) The extra cooler is most valuable. Chaincase is proven, but, most importantly, you have gearing options OOTB.

 

[Zrider]

I'm not a turbo feller, but I snowchecked the standard '13 800. I wanted that front cooler. On the '11 Pro that I had, I was always eyeballing the temp guage. In marginal snow, it got to be a PITA even with scratchers down and a solid flap. Plus, the standard was considerably cheaper.

 

[backcountryislife]

I'd rather have the belt drive. That alone IMO, makes the pro worth going to. I don't like it's cooling, but I can add a cooler cheaper than belt drive.

Also, a T top post is an easy swap, but is a big thing for me... the stupid plate posts like cat has are just simply ignorant of the reality of how people ride, no reason to not have any give in the post system. You can always put a set of bars or riser with less rise on a T top.

 

[Leaf27]

I'd rather have the belt drive. That alone IMO, makes the pro worth going to. I don't like it's cooling, but I can add a cooler cheaper than belt drive.

Also, a T top post is an easy swap, but is a big thing for me... the stupid plate posts like cat has are just simply ignorant of the reality of how people ride, no reason to not have any give in the post system. You can always put a set of bars or riser with less rise on a T top.

So ur saying it's better to turbo the Pro instead of the base RMK?

 

[backcountryislife]

So ur saying it's better to turbo the Pro instead of the base RMK?

For what I prefer... yeah... just personal preference. I've blown up so many chaincases... I hate the dam things, I've thrown SOOOOO much more power at my DD's & had good luck, and the belts that I know of have held up well... I just think a belt is a better system. (and you don't have to search much to see the lengths I've gone to, to help cat owners get T top posts on their sleds, so that one is a no brainer)


Different strokes, I see weight as a huge factor that I'm not very willing to give up, and not being an IC guy (H2O-air or air-air) the plumbing differences are minor for me, and I know it's easy to throw a cooler on back if needed (owning a crossfire (bigger cooler) & an M with boost though... I can say that more cooling is a beautiful thing)

 

[KAWGRN]

Im not turboed but with the overheating issues I wish I had the std rmk

 

[Super Sled]

Im not turboed but with the overheating issues I wish I had the std rmk

I agree. If I was buying, I'd get a standard RMK over a pro for the better cooling. Then I'd just upgrade the shocks ànd call it good. For the turbo guys, IMHO going for a std RMK over a pro version is a no brainer.

But my solution is a Fastrax rear cooler upgrade, which I've precured and am installing This summer. I hope it works as well as a front cooler...

 

[knifedge]

--If a stock Pro is having cooling issues, your going to need an additional cooler.

 

[backcountryislife]

--If a stock Pro is having cooling issues, your going to need an additional cooler.

Easier to install a cooler than belt drive though...

 

[KAWGRN]

last season I changed to the PC track and a longer sno flap and the cooling issues got way better,wow does that track throw Chit ,,but the sled became a trench monster!!! now Im back to a 5.1 with the longer flap and added wheels and will see if it any better??I would rather run hot and stop,,,, than stop and shovel!!!

 

[Leaf27]

Easier to install a cooler than belt drive though...

Can a nine year old install a cooler?

Installation is easy (my nine year old could do it) and it takes about 45 min. It improves many aspects of the sled including taking less effort to lay over.

 

[KAWGRN]

I just installed a belt drive took me an hour ,,,I dont think I can install more coolers in less time unless there is a new kit I havent seen??Its that square tubbing to round tubbing thing that slows me down?