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Does anyone make their own clutch tools?

I just notched a piece of square tubing to make a U shape, then I use that with my press. makes taking the secondary a piece of cake, no fuss, no muss.
 
I just buy some all tread rod , 2 pieces about a foot long and a couple nuts ,take 2 of the bolts out across from each other , screw the all thread in snug down the nuts , remove the other 2 bolt and loosen up the nuts going back -n forth to keep them even
 
Do you have to romve the secondary and shaft to disassemble? or can you get to the four torx in the back and do it on the sled?
 
you have to pull the shaft.... 5 minute job! I've had to pull the shaft on all of mine just to get them loose!! loctite!
 
on the xp theres a 13mm nut right behind the secondary right by the bearing,remove it and the retaining hardware that its attached to, remove the rubber plug on the upper part of the chain case with the vent hose attached to it ,put on the parking break, i think its a 16mm bolt that needs to be broke loose common to the upper sprocket ( in the hole where the plug was) here you should have someone to help, I use a brass punch about the diameter of a broom handle , have them hold on lightly to the secondary clutch, and then take the punch and put it on the end of the shaft where the sprocket is and hit it with a hammer until the shaft comes out , let the punch go through the sprocket and chaincase hole so the sproket,spacer,and chain dont fall to the bottom of chain case
 
I made the same tool using that video and it works great but not nearly as good as my team tied conversion. No more trying to jam a socket in to hold top gear for this guy
 
replaced the torx with hex on the back of the helix the last time i had my shaft out....then can use a ratchet wrench and not have to remove the shaft...also built my own tool...i'll see if i can get a pic up if anyone wants to look...
seth
 
I just buy some all tread rod , 2 pieces about a foot long and a couple nuts ,take 2 of the bolts out across from each other , screw the all thread in snug down the nuts , remove the other 2 bolt and loosen up the nuts going back -n forth to keep them even

I really like this idea, very simple. What size all thread? M8 and what pitch?

Thanks
 
View attachment 225974

This is the tool I made following the video above as a guide. It works really well. Its just a pipe expander with a piece of all thread attached. I also use a PVC collar the same size as the washer when removing the helix. Probably made the tool for less than 20 bucks

Like mentioned before, I also removed the torx bolts and put in a hex head metric bolt to replace it. Makes it easy to make a helix or spring change with just the tool and a ratchet wrench.

link for pipe expander.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/exhaust/small-tail-pipe-expander-69550.html
 
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I drilled a 1.5" hole in the middle of a couple foot piece of 2x6. Stand on the secondary and loosen the torx. Stand on it to compress the spring and re-tighten the torx.
 
The all thread idea works great and only cost me about $5 for a 1 meter piece of M8-125 all thread. Add a couple washers and nuts and your set. Use the washers to protect the clutch from the multiple turns of the nuts to de-compress and compress the spring. A little time consuming but saved a lot of $$. The all thread can be cut to about 8-10 inches, 12 inches is too much.
 
The all thread idea works great and only cost me about $5 for a 1 meter piece of M8-125 all thread. Add a couple washers and nuts and your set. Use the washers to protect the clutch from the multiple turns of the nuts to de-compress and compress the spring. A little time consuming but saved a lot of $$. The all thread can be cut to about 8-10 inches, 12 inches is too much.

also as your tightening them down ,Ill throw in a couple other bolt in the other 2 holes to help align the helix
 
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