Do you rotate your tires on your 4 place trailer?
- Thread starter Pro-8250
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^^^^ +1, really no need to.
On a side note, they usually show signs of dry rot and get replaced before the tread is worn. I use tire covers on mine in the summer to slow down the dry rot.
No. I've pulled the schitt out of trailers and never wore the tread off the tires before they were too old or blew up, except for bias ply tires.
Do put anti seize on the lugs and back of the rims against the brakes to keep them from seizing though.
Do put anti seize on the lugs and back of the rims against the brakes to keep them from seizing though.
Do your wheels have the plastic hub covers that are held on by one small allen screw? Buddy on another forum found out that screw can seize into the aluminum wheel, so he recommended putting anti-seize on before you have that problem.
There are no drive or steer tires on a trailer to create uneven wear. If a tire is wearing uneven there is a problem that needs addressed.
This is what I was always told by "the old timers"
never need to rotate them but if one is wearing uneven then you have a problem you need to look into.
I would run the first set of tires in there original position until they are wore out and see if everything is wearing evenly. I repack my wheel bearings every year, not that they need it but more so to inspect the brakes, the brakes on these trailers for the most part are ignored, I've had the linings come off of the shoes from all of the corrosion, the corrosion gets between the shoes and the linings and forces the separation. Some states are using Magnesium Cloride now, while this product works great on the road it works on everything it comes in contact with! I use Fluid Flim on all of my hard brake parts to combat corrosion.
Sorry for getting off the tire topic!
One more thing, bearing end play has a big effect on tire wear!
Sorry for getting off the tire topic!
One more thing, bearing end play has a big effect on tire wear!
Unless you put lots of miles on probably don't need to.
this is almost 100% incorrect. almost any tire tech or race car put crew will suggest you use lube. my rzr racing teammates used to not use lube and kept breaking lug studs. after i got them to start putting a tab on they haven't broken one since.
http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/torque-tightening
http://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php
so what are you trying to point out with posting those links? that arp one is assuming you are using their fasteners that are designed to be used with lube. i put head studs in my cummins engine. they recommended 125 lbs WITH lube. do you think i would have gotten the same "stretch" out of those bolts if i torqued them dry?
if you are breaking studs off of a razor, or anything, its because they are getting hammered on with an impact and/or over torqued. it has nothing to do with the lube.
torque specs on damn near everything can be assumed "dry". if they are wet, they are clearly stated that they need to be lubed with xxx.
go lube up a wheel bolt on something big that requires 200+ ft lbs of torque DRY (which i think all oem type lug bolt/nuts are). i bet you $100 you twist the bolt off.
if you are breaking studs off of a razor, or anything, its because they are getting hammered on with an impact and/or over torqued. it has nothing to do with the lube.
torque specs on damn near everything can be assumed "dry". if they are wet, they are clearly stated that they need to be lubed with xxx.
go lube up a wheel bolt on something big that requires 200+ ft lbs of torque DRY (which i think all oem type lug bolt/nuts are). i bet you $100 you twist the bolt off.
To torque with lube or without - I wondered the same thing a few years ago.
I asked an airplane mechanic that works on Jets. He told me the rule of thumb unless otherwise stated in repair manual is this - if the fastener is normally dry, torque it dry. If it is wet, torque it wet (lubed). I assume this means the lube which normally makes it wet such as engine oil if it is in an engine.
Another buddy of mine who works in a machine shop actually showed me a manual which gives torque correction values depending upon which lube is used, if you are going to lube it.
Of course, the threads should be clean either way.
I don't use a torque wrench on lug nuts. Maybe I should but I've never had one come loose in over 35 years of driving.
I'm not sure if the Tire store overtightened the lug nuts on my truck when I had new tires installed but when I went to rotate them I was using a heavy duty 4-way wrench and almost didn't get some of them loose.
I asked an airplane mechanic that works on Jets. He told me the rule of thumb unless otherwise stated in repair manual is this - if the fastener is normally dry, torque it dry. If it is wet, torque it wet (lubed). I assume this means the lube which normally makes it wet such as engine oil if it is in an engine.
Another buddy of mine who works in a machine shop actually showed me a manual which gives torque correction values depending upon which lube is used, if you are going to lube it.
Of course, the threads should be clean either way.
I don't use a torque wrench on lug nuts. Maybe I should but I've never had one come loose in over 35 years of driving.
I'm not sure if the Tire store overtightened the lug nuts on my truck when I had new tires installed but when I went to rotate them I was using a heavy duty 4-way wrench and almost didn't get some of them loose.
Nobody does.
It would be nice if tire shops would, as I would bet some guys & most gals would have trouble along side of the road trying to break loose lugnuts tightened by the jackazz with the 375 ft lbs impact wrench.
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