I know this has been covered somewhere but i cant find it so here goes again. Looking to go to a 19/43 gear set up on a stock 09 D8. Do i need a bigger chain? if so where is the best place to get gears and chains? Any help would be greay!
Do I need a chain??
- Thread starter THRILL_SEEKER
- Start date
5
550iq
Well-known member
I check out www.babbittson.com first because you can see parts diagrams for Polaris sleds from the early 90's to 2010. Looking there I saw 25/41, 78 pitch chain (800 Switchback), 22/43, 78 pitch chain (600 IQ Touring), and a whole lot of gear combos with 76 pitch chains. Nothing stock with a 19/43 combo. So if the stock 76 pitch chain is too short, the next step up is the 78pitch chain. You can buy from Babbitts, but a good Polaris dealer near you will probally be the best bet, nothing like one on one interaction and getting to know the local dealer. Hope this helps.
5
550iq
Well-known member
That is www.babbittsonline.com.
Purchased my hyvo gears and chain from Bikeman Performance.
Agreed
No up to date on the new IQ cases. Sounds like the numbers are the same as the edge. 19:42=2.21:1 ratio, 19:43=2.263:1. I would be more inclined to say with an 800 piped I would try to get into a 21 tooth upper gear and maybe keep the 42 tooth. If they are the same as the edge, I think when you switch to a 21 uppe the pitch of the chain changes and you end up with a 40 tooth bottom which equates to 1.9:1 ratio. 2:1 is a very close ratio, however you have to consider the driver also. Polaris has charts with drivers and gear ratio's and how they equate in speed. I try to run 85 mph around 150-180 hp. Above 180 hp 100mph is my goal. Track speed is key. I have run loads of setups on my old edge. With the 990 my gears were 98mph at 8300 rpm. I have rarely had to worry about being outgunned on the hill by another 2 stroke. Of course... turbo tech is advancing and 4 stroke turbo's are already there!!! I now run an Alpine front mount in a nytro with a CR tunnel and M-10 162x16x2 1/2 track. If you got the guts, it will go.....
Hope this helps. Oh yeah... the black art of clutching is another on the to do list.
No up to date on the new IQ cases. Sounds like the numbers are the same as the edge. 19:42=2.21:1 ratio, 19:43=2.263:1. I would be more inclined to say with an 800 piped I would try to get into a 21 tooth upper gear and maybe keep the 42 tooth. If they are the same as the edge, I think when you switch to a 21 uppe the pitch of the chain changes and you end up with a 40 tooth bottom which equates to 1.9:1 ratio. 2:1 is a very close ratio, however you have to consider the driver also. Polaris has charts with drivers and gear ratio's and how they equate in speed. I try to run 85 mph around 150-180 hp. Above 180 hp 100mph is my goal. Track speed is key. I have run loads of setups on my old edge. With the 990 my gears were 98mph at 8300 rpm. I have rarely had to worry about being outgunned on the hill by another 2 stroke. Of course... turbo tech is advancing and 4 stroke turbo's are already there!!! I now run an Alpine front mount in a nytro with a CR tunnel and M-10 162x16x2 1/2 track. If you got the guts, it will go.....
Hope this helps. Oh yeah... the black art of clutching is another on the to do list.
so if i went with a 20/42 (2.1:1) gearing instead of a 19/43 (2.26:1) gearing, wouldn't this be gearing it up? I think i need to gear down for the length of my track (163) and my weight (270)
You are correct, the recommendations ^^^^ are to gear up which you don't want for the hills. 19/43 sounds about right and will need the longer chain. It will work very well and keep your belt heat down.
There are lots of gearing vendors including Polaris, TEAM, SLP, etc.
There are lots of gearing vendors including Polaris, TEAM, SLP, etc.
maybe
Gearing is more governed by the HP and torque numbers you are running. You can gear as high as 1.8:1 if you have the HP and still be not to bad in the belt heat dept. I ussually try to stick a little lower just for the safety net. Once you hit the 1.8:1 range belt temps significantly jump and of course belt life dies. You are correct in saying gearing up with your numbers. It's also referred to as a taller gear... or longer legs.... . Call it how you see it. Run as tall as you can. On the old 700 I ran 2.16:1. The old beast rocked. The torque on the 700 is less than the bigger engines and by staying slightly under the 2:1 number it held the RPM when it was clutched properly. It takes very little to make a major difference. Remember when you go lower, you also lose track speed=high marks. Try to clutch for a lower engagement also. Keeps you from getting stuck off the start in the fluff. Listen to the engine when you are on a hard pull. The engine should never drag down or pulse. You should also run 2-300 RPM over what you want when you punch it off the line for a second or two, then as the clutch hits 2nd gear it should pull down to the rpm you want to run and stay there.
Gearing is more governed by the HP and torque numbers you are running. You can gear as high as 1.8:1 if you have the HP and still be not to bad in the belt heat dept. I ussually try to stick a little lower just for the safety net. Once you hit the 1.8:1 range belt temps significantly jump and of course belt life dies. You are correct in saying gearing up with your numbers. It's also referred to as a taller gear... or longer legs.... . Call it how you see it. Run as tall as you can. On the old 700 I ran 2.16:1. The old beast rocked. The torque on the 700 is less than the bigger engines and by staying slightly under the 2:1 number it held the RPM when it was clutched properly. It takes very little to make a major difference. Remember when you go lower, you also lose track speed=high marks. Try to clutch for a lower engagement also. Keeps you from getting stuck off the start in the fluff. Listen to the engine when you are on a hard pull. The engine should never drag down or pulse. You should also run 2-300 RPM over what you want when you punch it off the line for a second or two, then as the clutch hits 2nd gear it should pull down to the rpm you want to run and stay there.
Addition
I should also say that the 1.8:1 max ratio changes if you are not running deep pow and climbing mountains. You can go taller on the flats with groomed trails. I don't have much experience with this kind of setup. Also note, pretty much every one of my engines have been piped, with a lot of other mods along the way, but pipes are pretty much a given. This may change your set up slightly.
I should also say that the 1.8:1 max ratio changes if you are not running deep pow and climbing mountains. You can go taller on the flats with groomed trails. I don't have much experience with this kind of setup. Also note, pretty much every one of my engines have been piped, with a lot of other mods along the way, but pipes are pretty much a given. This may change your set up slightly.
If you get too tall of gearing it will be too hard turn the track in deep snow which results in less track speed and lower himarks and higher belt temps. If you go with 19/42 on your 800 I think you will be satisfied. It would probably work ok with 19/41 also but that puts a big jog in the chain and I have always believed the straighter you can run the chain between the gears the more efficient
so the 19/43 wont fit with 76 chain. was told that going to the 78 chain would defeat the perpus because of the big dog leg in the chain and i wouldnt be gaining much. what if i went to a 20/45 (2.25) with the 78 chain? you think that would tak up the slack in chain and make it better?
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