Do air intake changes alone drive the need for fuel controller setting changes?

[Frostbite]

Those of you who are, or have used fuel controllers.

How much more fuel (if any) did you need to add (a little or a lot) for ONLY a change of air intake system on your M8 or M1000?

What I mean is, if you added a Timber sled, SnoPro or BDX airbox as a stand alone mod (not done in conjunction with other changes) was there a big spike in EGTs due to a lean condition?

Did you notice a huge difference on your airfuel gauge that required you to add additional fuel to your fuel mapping of your fuel controller? If so, where in the powerband?

Were any changes in fuel requirements due to an air intake magnified by other engine mods done previously (headwork, porting, pipes, silencers)?

I'm asking because I'd like to try my BDX airbox with my SLP Performance edition package. The premapped Power Commander fuel controller from SLP has been programed using the SLP air intake system as part of their package but, I know the BDX box is going to flow more cold air AND save 8lbs so I'd love to give it try but, do so wisely.

This may be a tough one to get a definitive answer to but, I thought I'd try to see if there was a general consensus.

 

[winter brew]

I can tell you on my M7 that changing intake only made the sled run completely different....some to the point it would hardly be rideable. So I would say yes, it will likely have a major effect.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

maybe, maybe not. all sleds are diff. You have egts don't you frostbite. If you do, get some readings then install it. and start tuning. I think if nothing else you may have to do some tuning but it won't be worse than the stock intake and you will loose weight. When you add a pipe that increases hp the motor rev faster trying to pull more air from the same place the stock setup did, and the stock map is specific to the stock parts any changes to that setup can cause it to go either way.

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks guys, I went with the SLP porting and head work and eventually their complete performance edition package because I already had a SLP pipe, y pipe and canister setup on my sled. The thought was to stick with one vendor (one that is well known to have setups that work well in the mountains) even though I think the RK tek setup would have made more power.

The beauty of the pre-programed fuel controller custom tailored to a mod sled was also very appealing. I'm the last guy that wants to take all SLPs hard work and throw it out the window but... (there's always a but). I also want the best air intake available and knowing I have an air intake that can save 8 lbs sitting on the bench in my shop AND I CAN"T USE IT will bug the daylights out of me!

So yes, I guess my evil plan will be to get EGT readings over several rides with the SLP air intake and then install the BDX kit (I sure wish I didn't have to destroy my nose cone to try it) and adjust the fuel flow in the appropriate RPM ranges to match the EGT readings I had with the SLP intake.

I just wish SLP would offer a fuel map preset using a BDX airbox with their performance edition. I guess I can always wish.......................

 

[WyoBoy1000]

In Cooke city the slp porting was faster on the road and dakota performance would go better in the snow, pretty dang close though. Your prob better off just sticking to one manufacturer.

 

[Frostbite]

Yes, I know you are correct and that is no doubt the case WyoBoy1000,

Yet as you know, I long for the weight savings of the BDX box (that I have already purchased).

Maybe I can sweet talk SLP into making fuel control program for the the BDX box with their performance edition kit. If not, as much as it hurts, I may have to sell the BDX airbox kit to save me from myself, because I know it will get installed if I keep it.

But, I'll always be asking myself, so just how dangerous can it be to just install the dang thing..........

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You should install it, Truth is the program that slp sends yo on the powercommander may not be perfect anyway, every sled is different. To really tune the sled to peak performance or even to make sure your in the safe zone you have to do a little tuning. I think the bdx intake made a big diff on my sled. the 8lbs is worth it even if the power doesn't change. On my sled I tune it so that I can hold it wot and the temps climbs as fast as possible to 1150 and never go over 1160 no matter how long I hold it wot. its a fine line and that where the sled pulls the hardest. It can be done and as much modding as your doing it would be a disappointment not to see you install it. Just play with the tuning a little first and once your familiar with how to tune install it.
Also I gained 150-200 rpm with this intake and had to add fuel all over so to me that proves the power increase.

Even if you don't like it, you can just put the old one back on and the skins on the nose cone will only help cool the sled.

 

[davidhahn15]

so sorry to stray from the topic but egt's sound imperative for proper tuning.?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

you don't have to have them, but if you do all you have to do is get your base line and it makes it simple. Most of the time I just ride and don't worry. but I have been beat, then retuned the sled to that specific hill and handed the guy his a$$,

 

[Frostbite]

Great advice (as usual) WyoBoy1000.

Thanks guys, how important is it to have an air/fuel gauge if you already have EGTs?

I have read a few times that you really need both to really tune a sled well?

I suppose this will be next..................................

http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Products/LCDUnit/powercommander_lcd.aspx

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I was thinking the same thing but after seeing some crazy reading on a a/f gage and lots of people replacing probs because the 2 stokes are hard on them I wont be buying one and after this year see no reason for needing one. The power valves on these sled can cause the readings to be confusing. the only place it seems to be acurate is at wot but with good egts and a brain I'd rather just have the egts. I think I may get a water temp sensor, I was told after 177 degrees the piston expands to the point of risking a scuff and if you don't wait for proper warm up you can cold seize. I've never had a prob but I am carful it would just be nice know what is going on for sure and how long it actually takes for warm up and if the temps level out on a long pull or keep climbing.
So no don't get the A/F

 

[kane13]

I think your best bet frostbite is to speak with slp and see if they recommend the wideband or not and how to install it properly to get the best readings, i am sure they have tested it. Power commander says to use it in order to be able to monitor A/F readings, that being said there are also tuning centers all over the country you may want to contact one of them also to get a second opinion all A/F monitoring systems are different but the wideband seems to me the way to go if you are running the PCIII. I also think the intake will make a difference especially with porting and head work done, these are just my thoughts from what i gather like i say i am making the same decisions right now so i am very interested in what the outcome will be.

 

[Frostbite]

So maybe it's worth buying SLPs $54.00 air intake just to get a good baseline?

It will be interesting to see how much more airflow (and higher EGTs) the BDX box will bring.

My best bet is probably, once I get a baseline and figure out the tunning with the Power Commander I will install the BDX box and tune from what I see on the plugs and EGTs.

Or, I could just install the BDX box now and adjust if needed?