Dirty power valves???
- Thread starter G-Force
- Start date
D
dogtownbutcher
Well-known member
it will have a bog to it, because the power valves are either stuck, due to not being clean, or you might check in the servo motor to make sure they're still connected, had that happen to my brothers M10, hope that helps
T
truckman
Member
Having the same problem on my 06. Sled just turned 700 miles, no problems last season besides running a little rich (never turned down the oiler). This year, right out of the gate it has run boggy off the bottom end and loads up if it idles more than a second or two. Seems to smoke a little more also. Any tips would be appreciated guys or gals.
If they arnt working you wont be able to pull higher RPMs. I am not sure when they open on a m7 but I would guess around 7500. Pull them and give them a good cleaning, Its like a 15 minute job. Pull the pipe, (if its in the way) then I think its only 2 screws a piece on the m7. Hose them down with some carb cleaner, put them back together. I am sure the m7 runs a test cycle either when the sled is started or at a certian RPM but I done know which, I dont have one.
Thanks guys.. Reason I asked was because of an odd running condition that just surfaced. Motor ran like a champ last ride out, albeit clutching was off and could only pull 7600 rpm the motor never missed a beat.
So go for a lil test and tune run up the trail, and when I would whack the throttle, at higer rpm it would cut out, like flipped the choke on, kinda sputter and miss on one cylinder. Changed plugs, same deal. Swapped my stock can back to my speedwerx, same deal. Ran much better when I unplugged my BD box, but not cured completely, so plugged it back in and would be intermittent problem again.
Only thing I changed between last ride and this is I added some Cutler adj. weights, and put two flow-rites in the shock tower on the cluthc side.
So I came home, cleaned the power valves,(they were purdy gummy) mesaured my power valve cables, they were approx. 1.5mm out from each other, one at 33.5 and one at 35. Couldn't find the spec on them, so figured "heck, they prolly stretched a lil bit each" and set them at 33. Not enough??
Anybody chime in if they know the proper measuremnt, would be much appreciated 
Then got looking at my airbox boot, and noticed a spot about 2.5" long where the boot came off the horn, could see some water residue in there, so hoping/crossing fingers one of these things gets the engine straight so I can go back to being bamboozled with the clutching hahaha
So go for a lil test and tune run up the trail, and when I would whack the throttle, at higer rpm it would cut out, like flipped the choke on, kinda sputter and miss on one cylinder. Changed plugs, same deal. Swapped my stock can back to my speedwerx, same deal. Ran much better when I unplugged my BD box, but not cured completely, so plugged it back in and would be intermittent problem again.
Only thing I changed between last ride and this is I added some Cutler adj. weights, and put two flow-rites in the shock tower on the cluthc side.
So I came home, cleaned the power valves,(they were purdy gummy) mesaured my power valve cables, they were approx. 1.5mm out from each other, one at 33.5 and one at 35. Couldn't find the spec on them, so figured "heck, they prolly stretched a lil bit each" and set them at 33. Not enough??
Anybody chime in if they know the proper measuremnt, would be much appreciated Then got looking at my airbox boot, and noticed a spot about 2.5" long where the boot came off the horn, could see some water residue in there, so hoping/crossing fingers one of these things gets the engine straight so I can go back to being bamboozled with the clutching hahaha
Y
y0han
Member
Had the same prob at one time last year. Water came in through the airhorn, not much, but after a few days of pow-riding i had a fair amount of it in my airbox. Just as you describe, it would start sputter, wouldn't rev more than 6200-6400 rpm. And it always started after 5-10 minutes of riding (the time it took for ice to turn into water). Cleaned the airbox and put some silicone where the airhorn connects to the box and the sled ran perfect again.
BTW: APV cable length should be 34.5 mm (1.35 inch) for the 2005 M7, should be the same for 2006 models.
BTW: APV cable length should be 34.5 mm (1.35 inch) for the 2005 M7, should be the same for 2006 models.
Thanks guys.. Reason I asked was because of an odd running condition that just surfaced. Motor ran like a champ last ride out, albeit clutching was off and could only pull 7600 rpm the motor never missed a beat.
So go for a lil test and tune run up the trail, and when I would whack the throttle, at higer rpm it would cut out, like flipped the choke on, kinda sputter and miss on one cylinder. Changed plugs, same deal. Swapped my stock can back to my speedwerx, same deal. Ran much better when I unplugged my BD box, but not cured completely, so plugged it back in and would be intermittent problem again.
Only thing I changed between last ride and this is I added some Cutler adj. weights, and put two flow-rites in the shock tower on the cluthc side.
So I came home, cleaned the power valves,(they were purdy gummy) mesaured my power valve cables, they were approx. 1.5mm out from each other, one at 33.5 and one at 35. Couldn't find the spec on them, so figured "heck, they prolly stretched a lil bit each" and set them at 33. Not enough??
Then got looking at my airbox boot, and noticed a spot about 2.5" long where the boot came off the horn, could see some water residue in there, so hoping/crossing fingers one of these things gets the engine straight so I can go back to being bamboozled with the clutching hahaha
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